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2006 fluidampr install

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pricol fuel preasure kit question

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just bought fluidampr for my 2006 ram. anyone install a fluidampr on their truck? also, did anyone opt for the drill and pin kit? did not know if this was something i should do. how does this work? make any difference? any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. till next time!
 
There is a recent thread on the DTR (I think) where a guy installed one w/o doing the drill/pin thing. He has to replace his crank. Whatever it is it might be worth your while.

I am watching this thread. I have a double disc clutch which I have read can be quieted with a fluidamper.

Good luck buddy.
 
I didn't put the pin kit on when I did the

install and i have never had a problem.

I think the pining is for trucks that

are running high RPM.
 
thanks all!

good info. i think that i might opt for the drill and pin kit. makes sense while i'm at it. i am looking for about 500 hp. with ats 3000 and some 50 hp injectors, i think i'll be there. but was really looking to 'fine tune' and smooth out engine. heard rave reviews from guys who have dragged high hp cars, and they all say it (fluidampr) makes a lot of difference, not so much in power, but in them feeling like the power is more effortless, easier on the engine, and smooth.



2006 2500, dr. performance predator module (#2118), PPE excellerator (set on level 3 of 4), ats arc air intake, s&b cold air intake, 5" flo pro turbo back.

2" superlift coils, rad flo dual steering stab. , bilsteins, psc steering box support bracket, and 295/70/17 nitto terras (dyno 409hp, 748tq)



-next couple of weeks, lorenz drop blocks, ats rear diff. cover w/amsoil, industrial injection cp3 pump stage 1 parts bag, fluidampr, and air dog 150gph w/ filters go in.



-mid summer 50hp injectors (dynamite diesel), ats exhaust manifold & ats3000 turbo.
 
I've been running on 550+ hp for awhile, and did not use the drill pin kit. I've had no problems. I think the cases I've read involving problems stemmed from no loctite, using oil on the threads, or not properly torqueing the bolts.

The drill pin kit may add some peace of mind if you've got the TNT/R tune and frequent 4,000 rpm repeatedly, but it is also alot more work. If I recall, you have to remove all the front stuff (radiator, intercooler, grill, etc) to set up a jig and drill the crank.

I'm not trying to disuade you, but unless you're really hard on your truck, I don't thing it would be worth the extra work/risk required...

If you do go that route, be sure to post pictures!

--Eric
 
ENaf...........question?

guages..... i have trans. temp. , pyro. , and boost. what would you think i should get next? fuel pressure? does that make sense, since i am going to install a airdog fuel filtration system? since you have ten (you madman!), thought you might steer me in the right direction. thanks for all your info and help... ..... much appreciated! :-laf
 
guages..... i have trans. temp. , pyro. , and boost. what would you think i should get next? fuel pressure? does that make sense, since i am going to install a airdog fuel filtration system? since you have ten (you madman!), thought you might steer me in the right direction. thanks for all your info and help... ..... much appreciated!

If you get a chance, fill out your signature so we can see what mods you've done.

If you've modded the truck any, one of the most important tuning devices is a rail pressure gauge... and learning how to read it.

You've got a good start on gauges, but I'd say fuel pressure and rail pressure would be very helpful as well. Fuel pressure, meaning low pressure ( 0 - 30 psi or so) from the lift pump... allows you to see correct pump operation as well as filter plugging, adequate flow under hard accel, etc. Rail pressure being high pressure ( 0 - 30,000 psi gauge) that the CP3 pump is producing and sending to the injectors.

Those 2 along with what you have should be all you need.

Differential temp gauges are probably overkill unless you tow really heavy. Drive pressure becomes useful dialing in turbos, particularly twins, and can also be used to monitor exhaust brake performance.

I guess I'd be considered on the overkill side...

#ad


--Eric
 
Beyond gauges.

If you get a chance, fill out your signature so we can see what mods you've done.



If you've modded the truck any, one of the most important tuning devices is a rail pressure gauge... and learning how to read it.



You've got a good start on gauges, but I'd say fuel pressure and rail pressure would be very helpful as well. Fuel pressure, meaning low pressure ( 0 - 30 psi or so) from the lift pump... allows you to see correct pump operation as well as filter plugging, adequate flow under hard accel, etc. Rail pressure being high pressure ( 0 - 30,000 psi gauge) that the CP3 pump is producing and sending to the injectors.



Those 2 along with what you have should be all you need.



Differential temp gauges are probably overkill unless you tow really heavy. Drive pressure becomes useful dialing in turbos, particularly twins, and can also be used to monitor exhaust brake performance.



I guess I'd be considered on the overkill side...



#ad




--Eric
I count a minimum of 415 gauges. :-laf:-laf:-laf
 
Love that "Fighter Pilot" look---beat me by one,thinking about installing a oil pressure gauge next. I did get a comment/question from Mr Policeman wondering if all those gauges were distracting the view of the road---"NO SIR'---no different form you looking at you computer screen in your cruiser while driving---no comment. ::eek::eek::eek:-laf:-laf:-laf. DW
 
hey mr. lorenz? question.........

i know this should be under another forum, but... . i have a 2" coil lift, does the drop block really help? also i have a psc steering box stabilizer, will the bolts you provide with your drop blocks be long enough to go through the metal for the stabilizer bracket. thanks mark
 
I did get a comment/question from Mr Policeman wondering if all those gauges were distracting the view of the road---"NO SIR'---no different form you looking at you computer screen in your cruiser while driving---no comment. ::eek::eek::eek:-laf:-laf:-laf. DW

That's funny! I do find myself dimming the gauges when out of city lights, but they're not at all distracting.

Everything is tied into the factory dimmer switch, and seems to work great!

I need to mount the 4-pod overhead a little better though... the Lorenz kit just allows driving a little to fast on the rough stuff, and 4 bouncing gauges are kinda heavy :-laf

--Eric
 
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