2006 Mobile Suites 36TKS too much weight

[RVTRKN]

Now that you have the MS Dan, what tires came with it?

 

[DAN V]

I think they are LGM or LM brand. They would not put on the ones I wanted. I will change them out at a later date.

 

[RVTRKN]

If they are Chinese tires keep a close watch on the tread for small bubbles (tread separation) feel the tread for temperature, if one feels a lot warmer than the others, beware, check every time you stop. My Arctic Fox has them, but it only moves short distances, even then I check for separation before and after the 1 mile run. Good luck with your MS, they are nice units.

 

[RustyJC]

At a minimum, I'd double check the tire sidewall load ratings against the factory GVWR/GAWR sticker at the left forward portion of the MS (mine is on the road/driver's side of the pinbox). If the load ratings of the tires don't meet the minimum requirements of the GAWRs, then you would have an opening to get the tires replaced. These are heavy critters, and they even had problems with the Goodyear G614 RST tires that came on mine - that's why I switched to the 17.5" wheels and tires. Tires are no place to skimp on these RVs, and that sounds like what the seller may have done.

Rusty

 

[Cummins12V98]

What load rating is on the sidewall of the tires?

You should be able to sell your tires and wheels for at least $1,000 on Craig's List then get a set of 17.5" tires and wheels from trailertiresandwheels.com . You really should listen to us that have experience in this area.

Your money and frustration, up to you.

 

[DAN V]

What load rating is on the sidewall of the tires?

You should be able to sell your tires and wheels for at least $1,000 on Craig's List then get a set of 17.5" tires and wheels from trailertiresandwheels.com . You really should listen to us that have experience in this area.

Your money and frustration, up to you.

I am not sure what the tires are but l was told they are rated for the coach. they are the same size and load rating as far as I know. the only way i was going to get the GY tires was to pay the difference and I did not have that extra money for the diff since I already put money down on the unit. They are 17.5 wheels and tires that are on there right now just that I don't know what brand the tires are as of now. i am trying to find where the battery reset switch is right now so I can have 12 volt powere to the coach.

 

[RustyJC]

On my 2004 MS and on our daughter and son-in-law's 2011 MS, the battery disconnect switch is behind the same exterior door as the jack/leveling switches. It must be pulled out to be in the "on" position.

Do you have 12VDC power to the interior lights, fridge control panel, etc. when plugged into shore power? You should if the power converter is working and all of your fuses are OK. The lights should be running off the power converter output even if you didn't have the battery switch turned on. If the power converter isn't working, check the 120VAC breaker that feeds it, and make sure it's plugged in. My converter is located in a service bay in the basement.

Rusty

 

[DAN V]

I know where the battery disconnect switch is. I am talking about the battery reset switch. i got ahold of the previous owner and was told by him that there is a battery reset switch inside of the battery compartment. I told him that I had no 12V power to the light in the basement and he told me to look for the reset switch.

 

[DAN V]

i do have power to the lights when plugged into shore power. Just no lights when not plugged in.

 

[RustyJC]

I have never heard of or seen a "battery reset switch" on mine or any other 5th wheel I've ever owned. I have had a couple of Jaycos with in-line fuses in the battery positive lead with the fuse holder located near the coach batteries. Good luck finding your battery reset switch.

Rusty

 

[DAN V]

Thanks for the help Rusty. I too have never heard of a reset switch for the batteries. But there is supposed to be a "switch" at a terminal end by the converter. I will look there in the next couple of days.

 

[Killgore]

RVTRKN, if I was pouring that slab I would go 6" in depth. At 6" you will need 22.5 yards and the additional expense over the 4" slab which will require 18 yards will be worth it. And, I say 22.5 verses 18 yards, if you are dead-on grade. Leave out the fiber; ready-mix companies are only selling 'the sizzle with the steak' because most only put a very minimal amount and you need 3 pounds to the yard to really establish any kind of toughness index. You will also need to either have the slab cut or grooved a minimum of one and a-half inches in depth to prevent random stress related cracking because concrete will shrink and then crack, so it's important to anticipate where it will occur and control it. A 6" slab, if the finisher doesn't pour the concrete too wet, will crack every 15-20' (concrete can shrink up to 1/8" every 20 feet). This can be somewhat circumvented by pouring low slump concrete (stiff and harder to work) but using a jobsite added super-plasticizer that would cost several dollars more. I would feel comfortable using 3000-psi concrete but if you anticipate your finisher fussing over having to place 4-5" slump concrete, use the 4000-psi material. When adding water to concrete you can figure that for every gallon per yard that is added above the mix design, the slump will increase about 1" and the strength will go down about 200 psi, the equivalent of 1/4 bag of cement.

Where would I cut or groove? Right down the middle and then make three cuts the other way.

Use some concrete brick which you should be able to get from your ready-mix supplier as chairs to keep the finishers from displacing the rebar when they are screeding and bull-floating the concrete. Reinforcement is worthless if stomped into the sub-base.

Whether you pour the slab on the ground or dig it in (I'm not familiar with your soil) insure that the sub-base is uniformally compacted. You may have to use some gravel.

And finally, use a curing compound. Concrete requires the presence of moisture to properly hydrate; it is a chemical reaction not just 'drying out' that gives it strength.

Good Luck! Ed

 

[RVTRKN]

Thanks, I just happen to be sitting here with my brother and he confirmed what your saying. I finally get to see my old truck (look at sig) again.

 

[Killgore]

Oh, I nearly forgot. I erected a 18X36 metal canopy to park my fifth-wheel under. No more UVL damage to the roof and a whole lot easier to keep clean. It's wide enough to allow running the slideouts out. I wish I had made it longer so the 'White Beast' could be under it also.

Are you going to contract with a finisher or do it yourself? It will separate the men from the boys real quick. Plan on getting plenty of help if DIY, and don't let your brother get into the beer until the job is done! :-laf
- Ed

 

[RVTRKN]

We poured my dog run and slab, so it's not like we haven't before, but I won't buy the beer until it's finished, LOL. He won't be able help on this pour, so I'm contracting it out, it won't happen until May anyway.