2007 In Dash Factory Exhaust Brake Switch

[JimBob24]

JimBob24,



Would you be interested in offering a kit for us electronic dummies to do this? I would really like to get rid of the Jake stalk switch on my 06 auto.



Thanks!

Pat

I wouldn't mind, Pat, but it is a little tedious and time consuming assembling this circuit on a small prototype circuit board less than 2" square. I checked into having some circuit boards professionally produced but the start-up costs for such a small project were prohibitive. Anyway, someone has already built a device that works great and is easy to install. Take a look at post # 53 above, and the attachment that goes with it. I have been using one for about a month now and it has worked great so far. You can find the PAC TR-7 at many car audio installation places for $20-$25. , even less on ebay (but the manufacturer isn't happy about us buying them on ebay and won't warranty them or give tech support..... no problem for me). Note that the info for the TR-7 is mostly about using it for installing Alpine audio equipment but it is actually a multi-function device and you program it one time for the function you want to use. Go to pac-audio.com and look for info for the TR-7.



If anyone wants to build a latching switch themselves I will be glad to supply the schematic I used as well as parts list and suppliers. I did test this type also and it worked fine, but I elected to use the PAC TR-7 so I would have an easily obtainable off-the-shelf replacement if needed in the future.



The following attachment is the actual wiring diagram I used on my truck. I used a 6 pin MOLEX plug from Radio Shack to connect the factory switch to the wiring harness to make it easier to remove the center bezel. The terminal strip, PAC TR-7 and relay are mounted beneath the floor console, to the right of the transfer case shifter, and forward of the cup holders. You can remove the small snap-out tray in front of the cup holders to access the relay and PAC unit.



OOPS! I noticed after submitting this post that there was an error on the schematic. The 2. 2K resistor in line with the blue wire coming from the TR-7 to the terminal strip should be on the other side of the terminal strip. The red wire going to the relay should connect directly to the blue wire from the TR-7. It should not go through the resistor. The attachment should now have the corrected schematic.



Jim

 

[pirlbeck]

Jim,



Thanks for the reply and the info. What's involved to program the PAC TR-7?



Would you consider putting a kit together using the TR-7 and pre-wiring the relay, terminal strip and dash swtch with Molex connector? Or does this involve the tedious circuit board work you referred to?



Pat

 

[JimBob24]

Programming the TR-7 is very simple. The installation and programming instructions are on the pac-audio.com website, under "products > trigger modules", but basically you just slide a little recessed switch on, hook up the 12V+ and ground wires to a power source, and tap the brown trigger wire to the ground 3 times. This selects program #3, which is the latch circuit function. Then slide the switch to "off" and you are done with programming.



The PAC unit is sealed in a small plastic case with the wire leads coming out of the case. There is no circuit board work in this case, and the Molex connector and terminal strip are optional. I used the terminal strip because I was experimenting with some of the other circuit boards that I had built, and this just made it a lot easier to swap them out. The Molex connector just makes it easier to remove the center bezel and I highly recommend it, but you could just wire the PAC module directly to the switch and leave enough slack to pull the bezel out for future access. I would be glad to provide detailed instructions on how to modify the switch and install it in a 2006 with Jacobs exhaust brake. In your case, if you are not comfortable soldering and working with the Molex plug, if you want to buy the parts and send them to me, I will put it all together for you and program the module. You can PM me if you decide to do that. You will need the following:

MOPAR switch for '07 PN 4602692AB

PAC TR-7 module

6 position female connector Radio Shack 274-236

6 position male connector Radio Shack 274-226

6 position barrier strip (optional) Radio Shack 274-659

SPST Relay Radio Shack 275-226 (I little "overkill" at 30A rating, but it is simple and has a mounting tab which makes it easy to install)



You will still need to locate and tap a 12V source (cigar lighter wire recommended), and the panel light circuit. You will also have to remove the old stalk switch wiring and locate and use the wire going to ECM pin B39. This is not very difficult and I can give detailed instructions, but I don't know your level of expertise in wiring. If you are comfortable with basic automotive wiring you should have no problems.

 

[ScottLewis]

JimBob:



I completed the conversion today using a different brand trigger unit.

It works great and looks like the factory installed it.



Many thanks to you and all who contributed to this thread. I had a lot of fun working on the various prototypes and methods to actually get the '07 switch to work in my '06. Thanks to you all the conversion will be much easier for those following.



Dan

 

[JimBob24]

Great, Dan. Glad it worked. Mine is still going strong too. I noticed another brand of trigger unit called the Peripheral PTR-7 which looks suspiciously like the PAC TR-7. Exact same specs and wiring diagram. Probably other similar units made in the same Asian factory floating around out there.



Jim

 

[SNoyes]

You guys let me know when you start to mass produce these... The stock switch on my shifter rattles so bad I almost want to have the jake removed... (yes, I have the tape and the custom O ring mod on my $1300 dollar investment... . ) Hopefully you'll be making these in the next couple months, right???

 

[ScottLewis]

SNoyes:

Can't speak for JimBob but I don't plan to start making these on any commercial scale. I retired from one job and don't plan to start up another.



Jim's plan is easy to follow if you want to spend the cash and effort to make it look like the '07 factory package.



If your willing to scale down, you can install a rocker switch and led easier and for less than $10 that looks pretty good and works great. It will more than resolve any rattle problem. I tried to link to another thread where I posted a picture of the switch I installed earlier but couldn't figure out how to do it. If you search on Danavilla you can find it. My PC crashed 2 weeks ago and I lost all my photos so I can't re-post.



Dan



Dan

 

[JimBob24]

Not sure if anyone was actually planning to go into production. I doubt that there would be that great of a demand. It is really an easy mod. I can provide you with detailed instructions on how to do it yourself .



It will probably cost around $60. 00 to buy all the stuff you need (switch, bezel, trigger module, relay) to do it. This uses parts already in production and you do not have to build any circuit boards. You just have to wire everything together.



I don't think you can buy just the plug and harness for the OEM factory switch so you have to modify it by cutting off the plastic shroud around the switch pins and soldering wires to 5 of the 6 pins.



If you just want to use a different toggle switch mounted in any convenient location, then that is very simple. If you want to use the OEM factory style momentary contact pushbutton switch that mounts in the center bezel then you need to do the mod that this thread is all about.



I have detailed installation instructions on an MS Word document that I can send you to consider if anyone wants to PM me with their direct email address.



Jim

 

[ScottLewis]

Jim:



The Word Doc should be great for anyone wanting to build one of these. You might insert a photo of the completed unit as well to help them visualize what it looks like. Incidently, Instead of finding a new source for power and ground, I just extended the wires that went to my original stalk switch. There was a small harness behind the bezel for the rear slider which has an or/gy wire for panel lamp. I tapped it for the new switch since mine has the sun roof instead of the slider.



Thanks again for all your help.



Dan

 

[JimBob24]

Thanks, Dan. I will try to get some photos together. I thought about using the original wires from the stalk switch but I decided to try to keep the old stalk switch and its wiring intact just in case I decided to use it again. I was trying to reduce some of the wiring going thru the firewall. There are several different ways to wire it and all work equally well as I am sure you found out.

 

[ScottLewis]

Update!

After finally getting the '07 switch unit installed and working in my '06 and driving it around for awhile, I find that I preferred the rocker switch and LED I had on it before.



The new switch must be activated each time the engine is shut off and I just left the other switch turned on all the time. In addition, the indicator lamp in the new switch is difficult for these old eyes to see in the daylight and I don't drive much after dark.



I haven't swapped back to the old switch yet but think I will do so fairly soon.



Well, it was a challenge to make the switch work so I guess I'll just have to move on to another new one.



Dan

 

[SP Diesel]

If someone is in the Maryland/DC area with an 06 or 07 that is interested in doing this mod send me a PM.

We can probably come up with a kit to automate the use of the factory 07. 5 EB switch and have it remember its last state when the truck is shutoff. Ie if the brake is on when the truck is shutoff it will be on when the truck is restarted.

Brad

SP Performance, LLC

A Leader in Providing OEM Diesel Performance Solutions
www.spdiesel.com