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2011 Ram 3500 Gear Ratio

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Fuel economy aside, why not go the same speed and have the engine operating at a lower RPM??? Less wear and tear. With the torque at hand why not??

As Rusty's chart shows at 60MPH between 3. 73's and 3. 42's there is a difference of 222 RPMs. That is a lot less engine revolutions in the course of 100,000 miles or so.



Big Truck fleets believe in it.



If you are loaded heavy run it a gear lower.



I would have purchased 3. 42 gear sets if they had been available in '06, no question. I can shift down if needed rather than wish I had another gear to go into. :-laf



I'm just saying.



Mike. :)
 
Your 06 turns the same rpms as a current G56 would with 4. 10's, so they are a bit high. . But talking a 68RFE that has 2 OD's the extra 10% tq to the wheels over 3. 73's is a good thing, and your cruise rpms are still perfect... With 3. 42's you wont be in 6th much unless your doing over 75, so what's the point?
 
:-laf



Yeah, that is why Dodge introduced the 3. 42 ratio... for all of those guys wanting to be different for no apparent reason...



Higher RPM = higher fuel burn.
Not if your towing heavy, when comparing apples to oranges



The 4. 10 ratio is not really a concern. Many folks believe that differential choices will make significant differences in fuel economy. That is simply not true.
If your at the GCVWR with 4:10's your going to save fuel because it takes less effort to turn those gears, but you do lose fuel economy when empty. The 3:42's on the other hand will burn less fuel when empty, but will lose that economy when at GCVWR. The forces involved to turn the lower ratio can destroy the rear when at GCVWR. That is why I like the 3:73, I drive 50% city/HWY so it evens out for me, but at the same time there is less stress on the rear end. So I compromise at both ends of the scale, and it gives me the best of both worlds.
 
Your 06 turns the same rpms as a current G56 would with 4. 10's, so they are a bit high. . But talking a 68RFE that has 2 OD's the extra 10% tq to the wheels over 3. 73's is a good thing, and your cruise rpms are still perfect... With 3. 42's you wont be in 6th much unless your doing over 75, so what's the point?







I passed on the G56 which I had my heart set on when shopping for the Mega because the RPM's were too high at 75MPH compared to the Auto when I tried one of each flavor out before buying. Now with the Dual Mass issues I am just as glad that I passed, this Auto is very well behaved.



I may run faster than many folk on here as well, we can run 75 MPH each way on the daily commute and not be molested. Light traffic and a great Interstate highway, an idyillic situation created by Dwight D. Eisenhower just for us Mainers.



Wish he could have done something about the snow and ice. :-laf



But I would have bought a 3. 42 ratio without a second thought, then I could run at 1800 RPM rather than 2000 RPM or so.



I have not driven the Double Overdrive Auto so my feelings might change after trying one, maybe I will when warm weather gets here to see how they go and get my mind wrapped around this.



Mike. :)
 
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For some reason I thought I read a G56 in your sig. . whoops.

But a 68RFE will 10 rpms lower at 80 with 4. 10's than your 48RE with 3. 73's. Not too bad, considering in direct it puts 10% more tq to the ground.
 
A few points to consider. A few years ago, there was a thread where everyone posted their trucks average miles per hour for the life of the truck. I believe there was a feature that was on the older trucks where you could get total hours run and then you had your odometer. IIRC, everyone was really close to 40-43 mph average. The overwhelming opinion at that time was that this was the reason for the similar mpg. The trucks just didn't average fast enough over their lifetime to make a difference in fuel economy between the gear sets.

As far as the "increased wear and tear" due to the higher rpm's turned, IMHO, this is not even an issue. How many internal engine failures do you see posted here? Most people trade their trucks in before they even really get the engine broken in. So look at the hot shot haulers. I am making an assumption and please correct me if I am wrong, but I would believe most have 4. 10 gears and are doing way more miles in a year than many put on the entire time they own their trucks. EB and Tulsa Okie have almost 400,000 miles each on their trucks and have never had to go into the motor for anything. Not to say that at 1,000,000 miles you might see a difference in truck longevity between a 3. 55 and 4. 10.

Another reason to highly consider a 4. 10 is that LenB is looking at a SRW vehicle. At some time in the future you might consider going to a heavier 5th wheel and you may want to run 19. 5 tires for increased weight capacity. This is my current situation. With my 19. 5 tires, my 4. 10 rear end is effectively now a 3. 89. I am glad that I didn't start out with the 3. 73 because I believe I'd have a harder time towing my 5er with an even taller effective ratio.

The last point I've got to consider is EGT's. While towing, keeping the rpm's up keeps the turbo lit and moving more air and keeping the EGT's down. You will read of engine failures, although still rare thank goodness, of people burning up a cylinder because of high EGT's. Comparing a stock truck to stock truck towing the same trailer up the same hill in 90 degree weather, the 4. 10 will run a bit cooler than the other gear sets.

LenB, any of the gears will pull your current set up without a problem. 8,000 pounds behind the Cummins is like a flea on a dog. It'll never know it is there. Just ask yourself if you see yourself in the same trailer in ten years. If the answer is yes, then get whatever makes you happy. If there is even a question about it, consider strongly the 4. 10. You wouldn't wan't to limit yourself 5 years from now for a decision you make today. You are buying this truck for the purpose of towing. Make it the most capable tow truck you can.
 
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A few points to consider. A few years ago, there was a thread where everyone posted their trucks average miles per hour for the life of the truck. I believe there was a feature that was on the older trucks where you could get total hours run and then you had your odometer. IIRC, everyone was really close to 40-43 mph average. The overwhelming opinion at that time was that this was the reason for the similar mpg. The trucks just didn't average fast enough over their lifetime to make a difference in fuel economy between the gear sets.

As far as the "increased wear and tear" due to the higher rpm's turned, IMHO, this is not even an issue. How many internal engine failures do you see posted here? Most people trade their trucks in before they even really get the engine broken in. So look at the hot shot haulers. I am making an assumption and please correct me if I am wrong, but I would believe most have 4. 10 gears and are doing way more miles in a year than many put on the entire time they own their trucks. EB and Tulsa Okie have almost 400,000 miles each on their trucks and have never had to go into the motor for anything. Not to say that at 1,000,000 miles you might see a difference in truck longevity between a 3. 55 and 4. 10.

Another reason to highly consider a 4. 10 is that LenB is looking at a SRW vehicle. At some time in the future you might consider going to a heavier 5th wheel and you may want to run 19. 5 tires for increased weight capacity. This is my current situation. With my 19. 5 tires, my 4. 10 rear end is effectively now a 3. 89. I am glad that I didn't start out with the 3. 73 because I believe I'd have a harder time towing my 5er with an even taller effective ratio.

The last point I've got to consider is EGT's. While towing, keeping the rpm's up keeps the turbo lit and moving more air and keeping the EGT's down. You will read of engine failures, although still rare thank goodness, of people burning up a cylinder because of high EGT's. Comparing a stock truck to stock truck towing the same trailer up the same hill in 90 degree weather, the 4. 10 will run a bit cooler than the other gear sets.

LenB, any of the gears will pull your current set up without a problem. 8,000 pounds behind the Cummins is like a flea on a dog. It'll never know it is there. Just ask yourself if you see yourself in the same trailer in ten years. If the answer is yes, then get whatever makes you happy. If there is even a question about it, consider strongly the 4. 10. You wouldn't wan't to limit yourself 5 years from now for a decision you make today. You are buying this truck for the purpose of towing. Make it the most capable tow truck you can.



I agree here. I have the 3. 73 and have no problems with them and I'm at 24,000# combined, I just run 5 gear all the time unless it is totally flat or I have a good tail wind or I'm crusing at 120+kms/hr. :-laf The 3. 73's do the job fine with this transmission, but you do lose one more gear option if your not able to use 6th gear while towing. It would be nice to have the 4. 10's, but 5th gear does the trick. With the weight of the trailer you mention, no problem with the 3. 73's. I ocasionally get up to 38,000# combined when I haul our telahandler around on the gooseneck and I do this in 5th gear also with no problem doing hiway speeds, and I turn the chip down or off in fear of breaking something with the extra power.

Lugging the motor dosen't do it any good either, high egt etc. I cruise at about 2100 to 2350 rpm's and that keeps all the temps happy and throtle responce good.
 
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A buddy of mine who also has a 3500 Ram told me about this web site and I have to say everything he said about it is true. There is just a wealth of knowledge on here. There is going to be Pro's and Con's on everything thats posted, but everyone's towing situation is different. After reading everyone's post the general consensus is with the 68 RFE with the 2 OD's the 4:10's are the way to go. Does anyone know what the RPM's at 70 mph with the 4:10's are ? Just curious. Anyway I would like to thank everyone who posted on my question of what gear's to get, I really appreciate your time as it definitely helped me out. Again thanks to everyone. Len B
 
Does anyone know what the RPM's at 70 mph with the 4:10's are ?



In my truck, 1612 RPM @ 60 MPH x 70/60 = 1880 RPM. Depending on tire size, YMMV.



In my 2002 HO/6-speed with 4. 10s, 70 MPH = 2350 RPM. If you haven't tried 4. 10s with the 68RFE, you're in for a surprise!



Rusty
 
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I was towing my 5er which is about 12,000lbs. On flat level ground with only air resistance, cruse control on, 65mph, I bumped it down to 5th gear. The mileage dropped almost 2mpg. Up shifting back to 6th gained the mileage back.



Lower rpm=better mileage. Next time I tow in the desert I will shoot a video to prove it.



I know some of this may be due to the space between 5 and 6th gear is greater than the space between a 3. 73 and the 4. 10.



The 3. 73, with stock tires is a pretty good all around gear. Using 4th gear my truck will pull a 6% grade pretty easy at 65+ mph.



Now all that said I am looking at getting a 40ft toy hauler that has a 14k DRY weight. I will most likely be over weight when it is full of stuff. Definitely will be getting 4:10's with the new trailer.
 
I have a 03 that has the 3. 73 and I would not even thank a bout any other gear. When gone for six mo. on the road pulling my trailer and tool box and 100 gal of extra fuel I hit the 23. 000 I have no trouble with it. round trip for six mo 14. 3 one year and 13. 6 the first year. I run at 62 MPH
 
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I have a 03 that has the 3. 73 and I would not even thank a bout any other gear.



Then you don't have the double overdrive 68RFE - which is the topic of this thread (2011 Ram gear ratio). Comparing the NV5600 to the 68RFE is... . , well, there is no comparison. My 2002 with 4. 10s and NV5600 ran 2000 RPM @ 60 MPH in 6th; the 2011 with 4. 10s and 68RFE runs 1612 RPM @ 60 MPH in 6th. The final drive ratio doesn't mean much unless considered in conjunction with the transmission ratio(s).



Rusty
 
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I have a 03 that has the 3. 73 and I would not even thank a bout any other gear. When gone for six mo. on the road pulling my trailer and tool box and 100 gal of extra fuel I hit the 23. 000 I have no trouble with it. round trip for six mo 14. 3 one year and 13. 6 the first year. I run at 62 MPH



Like rusty said, very different trans ratio's.



At 62 you can't spend much time in 6th.
 
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