2013 and what oil & Filter

[Fear This: Cummins!!]

So, my new '13 is all I dreamed of and then some. Well, sooner or later she is goin to need some fresh oil. I do believe synthetic oil is the only option for this truck. I have only used Rotella T conventional oil in my '01 and '06. I am not really looking for "who's oil is best" input. Rather give me the top few choices that are readily available. Also, of course Mopar wants a person to use their products, but I have been satisfied with Fleetguard's Stratapore filters with the '01/'06. Any thoughts there and with other quality filters would be appreciated. All in regards to the '13 6. 7L only.

Thanks, Jared

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

According to John Martin's article last year in TDR, Shell Rotella T or Castrol Tection, both CJ4 rated, would be best. He did not feel synthetic was worth the cost unless in extreme temperatures. Cummins fills the engines with syn because they don't know where they will end up when in new Rams.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

BTW, I found a good sale on Rotella at Sam's Club in 6x1 gal bottles.

 

[Jim W]

Joe, I believe you where at the CMEP/TDR rally correct, as well as I was? Didn't the fluid session that was held both by Cummins/Valvoline discuss the new 2013 Ram oil requirements and the 15,000 mile oil change interval now? So if that is the case I would think the synthetic 5W-40 Valvoline/ Shell Rotella would work for these engines now. Also if you change sooner than 15,000 miles then the 15W-40 oil will work too but if you are following the manufactures recommendation to change at 15,000 miles I would use5 W-40 oil. Just my humble opinion.

Jared,
The current oil filter either Fleetguard or Mopar for the Cummins engines will fit the 2013 engine. How you service this filter will depend on the truck model 2500/3500. The 2013, 2500HD can be serviced like always form the bottom of the engine. The 2013, 3500HD will need to be serviced from the passenger side wheel housing due to frame changes made by Ram.
Jim W.

 

[mwilson]

BTW, I found a good sale on Rotella at Sam's Club in 6x1 gal bottles.

Was it a 6 gallon case or a 3 gallon case???



AFAIK they changed the packaging to 3 gallon cases a few years back. If the 6 gallon cases are back I would put them in stock again.



Mike.

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I think I'd rather change oil more often than every 15,000. I haven't decided how often would be a good compromise. I also haven't checked out the access to the filter on the 2013 3500 with its bigger and stronger front crossmember under the filter area of the engine. The Rotella cases at Sam's have six one-gallon bottles in them, $73. 88 minus $6 rebate. The Delo 400 CJ low emissions oil is at Costco in 3x1 gallon jugs per case.

 

[Wertles]

I will be crawling under my truck this weekend to see what is going to be involved with oil changes. My "plan" is to do the first change at 5000 miles, run full synthetic (I have 5 galons of Amsoil 5-40 on the shelf, haven't checked yet to see if it is CJ4 or not) and then change at no more than 10,000 regardless of what the oil meter says.



If I can, I'll get some pictures to post.

 

[Fear This: Cummins!!]

Would love to see those pictures. The '01 and '06 were always changed at 5,000 miles. The '13 DRW I am planning to go at least 10000 miles, but not to 15,000.

 

[CKelley1]

if you want the best filter, use the fleetguard lf9028, that is what most of the cummins mechanics use. as for oil change interval, each series requires a different interval for best economy and life. some examples the 03 can go three times longer than a 05 and a 08 6. 7 can only go half of a 05. because of the change in the way the 2013 handles emissions the 13 can go 5 times longer than a 2012 and the 13 is going to get about 15% better mpg also because of the change

 

[Gonzo 1066]

A 15,000 mile oil change is really not that unusual with heavy diesel engines, be it CAT Cummins, Detroit or Navistar. I really dont buy into the idea of saving your engine by changing more often than the manufacturer says unless you are misusing your rig in some unusual way. When Case IH was using our 5. 9 and 6. 7 engines in FARM tractors the reccomended oil change was 250 hours with a standard mineral oil. If you multiply 250 hours X 40mph you come up with 10,000 miles. Our trucks NEVER see the harsh conditions of a farm tractor, run in the dirt all day at full throttle and horsepower. The PUs have it quite easy. I think that short oil changes are a waste of natural recources and really dont prolong the life of the Cummins engine. However each owner has to make his own informed decision on where to spend his or her money, just dont let your local Quickie Lube influence your choice.





OK I am now off of my soap box,, Blast away.

 

[TCDiesel]

A 15,000 mile oil change is really not that unusual with heavy diesel engines, be it CAT Cummins, Detroit or Navistar. I really dont buy into the idea of saving your engine by changing more often than the manufacturer says unless you are misusing your rig in some unusual way. When Case IH was using our 5. 9 and 6. 7 engines in FARM tractors the reccomended oil change was 250 hours with a standard mineral oil. If you multiply 250 hours X 40mph you come up with 10,000 miles. Our trucks NEVER see the harsh conditions of a farm tractor, run in the dirt all day at full throttle and horsepower. The PUs have it quite easy. I think that short oil changes are a waste of natural recources and really dont prolong the life of the Cummins engine. However each owner has to make his own informed decision on where to spend his or her money, just dont let your local Quickie Lube influence your choice.





OK I am now off of my soap box,, Blast away.

x2 Changing at 5K maybe for the 1st service after that I would go to 12K ,With Synthetics I would go the 15K-18K on 2013.



2007. 5 to 12 5K or sample changes ONLY.

 

[gsbrockman]

Today {copy & paste from CF on 08/06/2013} I tackled the first oil change on my '13 RAM 3500. I'm at 12,317 miles and 241 drive hours / 0 idle hours (that's an average mph of 51. 1). I decided I would share my experiences here based on this being a more search-friendly thread for other member's posts.

I began by removing the drain plug. Previously, I'd asked if the oil comes out like a cow peeing on a flat rock... . with answers of a reassuring "yes". That's all validated as of today personally by me. Gotta love those oil-proof gloves.
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I then pondered as to if I was going for oil filter removal through the wheel well or via the top. I actually incorporated both techniques.

I began by removing all of the duct work between the air filter housing and the turbo.
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I loosened the old filter (the pic denotes the new LF16035 installed) via the wheel well. Every new RAM/Cummins pickup I've owned has had the Cummins Gorilla in charge of tightening the filters at the MREP. I used a band style oil filter wrench for removal.
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Pic of LF16035 from topside. I can note that I was able to remove the old filter without spilling the first drop into the drip tray / trough. I'll also note that I was able to prime the new LF16035 just as I had my previous CTD's.
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While I was at it, I checked the air filter. I deemed it good for a few more miles anyway. A refreshing 12 oz. Mountain Dew can pictured for reference.
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A couple of shots of the mystery intake silencer... .
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Overall, everything went well. I must admit I was spoiled from all of the previous 5. 9L & 6. 7L CTD's oil filter removals from the bottom. It is what it is... . and today was a learning experience. I'm quite sure the next oil change will go a tad quicker. My oil life indicator was at 16%. I reset the oil life to 100%.

I also changed the fuel filters today as well. I'll be adding to another thread here shortly.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Thank you! Great post.

 

[Kirwin]

I see this is also the time to install the missing block heater cord on my 2013 truck! Thanks for the pictures. Now if I could just see how the cord is supposed to be routed on the side of the engine and out to the grill. Ken Irwin