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2013 Ram, high hours idling

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Def

12 volt outlet in truck bed

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And when you say that, I wish I had the G56, too. No issues with those. It's silly that they say the autos have more power, anyway. The "torque management" software negates any additional power they might have had in front of the auto.
 
P2040. Reductant injection air pressure sensor circuit too high. Got the light yesterday. Called the dealer, but they wanted to schedule me with the same guy, and no one called me back. Third different engine light in under two month of ownership. In that two months, the dealer had the truck for one week, and I was out of town for three weeks. This will be my fifth trip to them for repairs.
 
It's silly that they say the autos have more power, anyway. The "torque management" software negates any additional power they might have had in front of the auto.

Uhm no. They wouldn't create an engine with X amount of torque, then program it so you can't use it. That doesn't make any sense.

Torque management is only used with initial acceleration, between shifts and possibly a couple other scenarios, but the full torque capability is there, and used, when you are moving, and need it.
 
Uhm no. They wouldn't create an engine with X amount of torque, then program it so you can't use it. That doesn't make any sense.

Torque management is only used with initial acceleration, between shifts and possibly a couple other scenarios, but the full torque capability is there, and used, when you are moving, and need it.

I read that max torque is only in 3rd & 4th gear with the automatics. When it downshifts under heavy load. Would be interesting to see if this is true at May Madness.
 
Manuals get torque management too.

I recall reading full torque is only available in 4th and above. But it's really nothing to complain about, as the drivetrain that could hold 900 lb/ft with the gearing reduction of 1st gear would be cost and size prohibitive. The full torque isn't needed with the torque multiplication of anything 1-3.
 
If not careful, you can overheat the g56 if towing in 6th in the mountains and brown/score your bearings.

Torque management probably has a place in all overdrive gears with the cummins. But it's only linked to the speedometer in the manuals
 
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I didn't read any info about the actual effects of the torque management software, in my owner's manual. Driving it, I'm sure it's detuned on acceleration in lower gears. It's downright doggy off the line. Dodging out into traffic is to take a chance at being rammed, as the engine never hits until you've already crept out into the lane. Common sense dictates it would also detune in high gears.
Anyway, my truck's back at the dealership with this P2040 code. I'm not sure, but I think he said the tech broke something when they replaced the SCR. So, I have a loaner Durango while they wait for parts.
 
Just to test the weather You received more CEL, heck I dump in deionized Water only in Summer months. IMO the concentrate of UREA and deionized water is to High on the UREA side,its the UREA that FUBAR everything ,H2o will evaporate the UREA turns to solid mater and sticks to hard material, plastic, steel you name it.

TC, I have considered following your advice with the deionized water. I think it is prudent to consider adding deionized water occasionally to prevent any def crystals forming in the pump/nozzle.

However, as I was looking over the water that they sell at CVS, I saw distilled, but no deionized H2O.

While there, I remembered an article that described how none of those waters being sold under various names (purified, distilled, etc) actually are held to any standard.
It is possible for a company to put tap water in a deionized water jug and not be held liable.

I am curious where you buy your deionized water and what brand you buy. I am still considering using some deionized water in my def.
If I do, I want to be as informed as possible. I like the fact that def is ISO/API standardized. I am hesitant about deionized water because none of it is stanardized or quality controlled.
But still thinking about it.
 
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Deionized and distilled are going to be nearly identical in purity, how they are derived is the difference.

Can you even buy deionized easily? I've never tried buy any because I can get all I need from work, so I've never looked.
 
Well, a FAQ (10 facts about def) says that one teaspoon of salt can contaminate 5000 gallons of def.

So def in our small tanks can be contaminated by the salt/sweat from your skin.

Just trying to find the purest thing possible
 
Well, a FAQ (10 facts about def) says that one teaspoon of salt can contaminate 5000 gallons of def.

So def in our small tanks can be contaminated by the salt/sweat from your skin.

Just trying to find the purest thing possible


Is this in response to my post?
 
Reverse Osmosis & Deionization http://www.waterandmorehub.com/deionized-water-vs-distilled-water/

Deionized water can be found at carwashes, chemical , medical companies, you name its everywhere.

You must install Reverse Osmosis & Deionization.

I know this (I am responsible for several fairly large DI systems at work).....but do they sell it to the general public? Not that I need it, but if I didn't have access to deionized, I would just use distilled....unless I needed large quantities.
 
I here Ya Kthaxton.... I'm surprised that after all the post I have done over the years this has NOT taken off, it look like FEAR is doing well in the DEF area.
 
I'm surprised that after all the post I have done over the years this has NOT taken off, it look like FEAR is doing well in the DEF area.


I suppose I don't have a compelling reason to add DI water. It's cheap and easy for me keep my NOX emissions down, so.....I figure why not?
 
Is this in response to my post?

Not intended as a response. I didn't know how DI is sold to the public. The university where i used to teach chemistry has it on tap. But i don't trust that they maintain it correctly. Students maintain their system.

I also don't trust that the piping they use doesn't re-ionize the water.
 
I hope they aren't using some kind of metal....DI water will ruin it.

Unless the installer was a complete moron, I'm betting they are using some type of PVC....as they should.
 
It came out of a metal faucet. That's why i don't trust it. I think it was not installed correctly, nor maintained properly
 
Finally got my pickup back from the shop, again. They ended up replacing the exhaust fluid pump. They had to special order it, which took a week to get here, then five days after I got the email that they'd recieved it, I got one saying that they'd finished it. They test drove it for fifty miles. I guess they wanted to be sure the engine light stayed off. That was the P2040 code that came up a few weeks ago. The reductant air pressure sensor must be inside the unit. They called it an internal malfunction.
 
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