2017 3500 6.7TD thermostat replacement

[cricha]

I have a 2017 3500MC 4x4 6.7TD. I would like to change the coolant thermostat in it. MOPAR part from local RAM dealer is $97. Genos Garage has (OEM?) Gates part #33915 for $21.95. Is there something special about the Dealer part? better quality? anyone have any additional info on the thermostats that may explain the huge price difference? THANKS!!

 

[nukegm]

buy genos. i have bought lots of parts from them. all work perfect. hard to believe dealer charges 97 for a 10 dollar part. cheers!

 

[AH64ID]

Gates is not OEM.

Lots of people have good luck with gates, but I prefer Cummins thermostats... just don’t buy them from FCA. Go direct to a Cummins dealer or on the internet.

 

[HPSimpson]

I have bought several thermostats from Geno's garage for my trucks and they work just find.

 

[GrantP]

I have a 2017 3500MC 4x4 6.7TD. I would like to change the coolant thermostat in it. MOPAR part from local RAM dealer is $97. Genos Garage has (OEM?) Gates part #33915 for $21.95. Is there something special about the Dealer part? better quality? anyone have any additional info on the thermostats that may explain the huge price difference? THANKS!!

Can I ask why you want to replace the thermostat on a vehicle that new?

 

[HPSimpson]

Can I ask why you want to replace the thermostat on a vehicle that new?

Well though should be replace soon due engine running to hot.

 

[cricha]

Can I ask why you want to replace the thermostat on a vehicle that new?

Overheating issues. shop says problem could just be a sticky t-stat. easy to change so going to do that first. want to get a good quality t-stat, but don't want to get ripped off by a dealer.

 

[HPSimpson]

Like I said earlier go to Geno's Garage.

 

[Ozymandias]

Deleted - Wrong thread, sorry

 

[GCroyle]

I did an R&R on my T-stat a year ago along with pump and coolant.

New Gates 33915 T-stat leaked after install, very small no drips but leaked and steamed off. The gasket was thin did not seal against housing. It was visibly thinner compared to the replacement I picked up on the road.

Just an advisory, not a diagnosis, might not even be your part number yada yada YMMV etc.

Fun I did the R&R in camp at least it wasn't the new pump. And an infra red temp gun is a gotta have it for stuff like this.

Gary

 

[SnoKing]

When does it over heat? When working hard? Do you hear the fan come on? SnoKing

 

[cricha]

When does it over heat? When working hard? Do you hear the fan come on? SnoKing

pulling 7K trailer, not working it hard. ambient temps 95-100. coolant goes 220-230, fake oil temp 240, fan does not come on fully. appreciate the comment about fan, but shop already had it on diagnostic, could not actuate fan. recommended changing t-stat and seeing if there was any improvement before spending bigger money on a fan clutch. For the record, I have a very accurate IR reader, and I have got temps off of the oil pan and oil filter. They actually have been pretty close to what the fake temp is showing SOMETIMES. other times it is WAY off. sometimes seeing large instant oil temp changes 30*+.

 

[GCroyle]

appreciate the comment about fan, but shop already had it on diagnostic, could not actuate fan. .

Huh?

 

[cricha]

Huh?

yep. Said the fan cycle failed. couldnt get the fan to come on at all. I know that it comes on partially, because you can hear it on cold starts with the a/c on, sometimes when driving, but not very often even with coolant temps at 230. NEVER spools up completely. i suspect the tech wasn't using the diagnostic program correctly. would love to be wrong on that one.
After having a 6.0L Sometimes Duty for 13yrs, the possible issues that came to mind concerning my 6.7 cummins was clogged coolant passages in oil cooler, bad fan clutch, and/or sticky or failed t-stat. I'm going to start with the t-stat because it's cheap and quick to replace. if that doesnt make any change, the fan clutch will be next. I highly doubt it is a clogged oil cooler.
flushed out the radiator fins, coolant level ok, bled out air in cooling system, checked fan shroud, all this stuff is good.

 

[cricha]

something that came to mind, on the Superduty 6.0 engine, a mod that many folks did was to put a switch on the fan clutch wires so the fan could be turned on manually. Has anyone done this on the 6.7Cummins? curious.

 

[AH64ID]

If the fan is failing to come on why wouldn't you replace it?

There is zero doubt that the fan should be on at 220°, and it should be easily actuated with a scanner/WiTech.

How many miles are on it?

 

[cricha]

If the fan is failing to come on why wouldn't you replace it?

There is zero doubt that the fan should be on at 220°, and it should be easily actuated with a scanner/WiTech.

agree. 100%.

had 3 techs tell me that there are multiple temp inputs plus other operational parameters that control fan clutch operation. i believe that's true. The fan has NEVER spooled up completely since the truck was driven off the lot. like I said before, you can hear it slightly if you listen, but when the fan is on fully, you can tell without a doubt, right?. i havent been able to find a data table that shows the coolant upper/lower temp range for the ECU that triggers fan operation in conjunction with engine load. The tech couldn't get the fan to work. it did work the next morning a little. Maybe multiple issues, all easy to fix, just starting with the cheapest.

 

[AH64ID]

agree. 100%.

had 3 techs tell me that there are multiple temp inputs plus other operational parameters that control fan clutch operation. i believe that's true. The fan has NEVER spooled up completely since the truck was driven off the lot. like I said before, you can hear it slightly if you listen, but when the fan is on fully, you can tell without a doubt, right?. i havent been able to find a data table that shows the coolant upper/lower temp range for the ECU that triggers fan operation in conjunction with engine load. The tech couldn't get the fan to work. it did work the next morning a little. Maybe multiple issues, all easy to fix, just starting with the cheapest.

You should hear the fan often, especially with the AC.

Are you out of warranty?

The fan starts to ramp at 97°C and this is the fan rpm vs temp table from a 2017.

It is strictly based on temp, load has nothing to do with fan rpms.

My fan is audible around 1100 rpms, very noticeable at 1500, and 3000 sounds like a Cessna.

 

[cricha]

You should hear the fan often, especially with the AC.

Are you out of warranty?

yes, I believe I should hear the fan more often.

I have 66K on the engine, so I think the drivetrain warranty is still in effect. The closest dealer for warranty work is a complete train wreck. wouldnt even consider going there. The next dealer that has a good record is a ways away. Unless the issue is going to be real expensive, it costs me more out of pocket to have it serviced at a dealer. some things I cant do right now, such as the diagnostic programs. So I had to take it to a shop. I was concerned there could be something wrong in the software causing the problems. Shop price for a fan clutch was about $1100 bucks installed plus the added cost of having to have a second driver make two trips to the shop and back. it would be ok if the dealer would cover 100%
$35 for a t-stat delivered to my doorstep seems like a good place to start. Im looking at getting the alfaOBD program. just found out about it.

 

[sag2]

I tried to actuate a members fan at May Madness two years ago and there was no routine in wiTech. I don't recall the year of the truck. Also many times the actuator can only be run with the engine off. Doesn't make sense, but that is the way it's programmed. On my 2018 there is a fan test in wiTECH.