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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 230 injectors

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I'm looking at buying a set of injectors from a 230 HP cummins. I was wondering how much better they are than say 215's? Anybody know any specs on them? Basically what I want to know is will they give me the same gain my 300's did (about 30 HP over stock 175 injectors) but having the correct spray angle will keep my EGT's lower. I've hit 1600 already on a long hard run and boost was at 36 PSI. I also don't like the low RPM light throttl shuddering but the delivery valves are going in this weekend so that wouldn't matter anyway. Thanks
 
Until the EGTs are dealt with, I wouldn't even put in the DVs yet. Do the timing first. Will give you a little more response, and will lower the EGTs as well. For me, going from the stock 14*, to 16*, dropped the EGTs about 150*. Bumping the timing also reduces the peak boost. The lower boost will bring the EGTs down a bit. The intake air will be cooler.



I'd look into a HTT HTB2 turbo as well. Need more turbo.



The 230 injectors will be smaller than what you have, and the 370s would be bigger. Would suggest something like a set of DD3s or DDP3s. They will give you about the same power, and lower EGTs, vs the 370s. My DDP injectors make more power than the 370s I had, but less heat. And burn cleaner, too. I can still blackout 2 lanes of road, if I want to. :D ;)
 
I have 300's not 370's... . not sure if that was clear... ?

With the 12cm housing I couldn't get boost below 38, I was running a turbomaster wastegate control and it was wide open... . just wouldn't flow enough.

Anyway, I know my turbo is too small but I'm waiting on my bro to replace his HTT HX40 with something bigger so I can buy it from him. He's maxxed out the HX40 at about 500 RWHP, but it's plenty of air for my needs.

I'm gonna install the DV's anyway because I hate the low RPM light throttle shutter, I'll just drive it lightly until I can atleast get the timing bumped to lower EGT's. It takes a good long hard run uphill to get EGT's much past 1400, on a flat I can't get it past 1450 at all. I'll be going from 12. 5 timing (or less if it has ever slipped) to 15 degrees so I guess I'll be looking at a 150-200 degree or so reduction.
 
sorry, a little off the subject but 230 injectors?



does that mean there is a such thing as a 230 p-pump?? or larger?



if so would it be better than a 215 pump?



back to subject--i have been pondering getting away from my 370's and going back to stock 180's for the sole reason of hunting down a fuel shutter(it didnt shutter pre-370s), then maybe later going with DDP4's.



:-laf hell ill try them 230's send em to me ;) :-laf
 
Matthug said:
I have 300's not 370's... . not sure if that was clear... ?



bmoeller said:
The 230 injectors will be smaller than what you have, and the 370s would be bigger.



I figured it out. ;)



The 230 injectors are probably for RVs/rescue trucks.



Matt, have you checked the fuel pressure?
 
bmoeller said:
Matt, have you checked the fuel pressure?





Thats one thing I haven't gotten around too, but it's on the list. First I want to find a spare banjo bolt to drill and tap so I don't screw up the one thats on the truck now! I just don't trust myself I guess. I tried cummins but I either got a retarded salesman or they don't have it. Can I get it from dodge? I want to hook up a permanent gauge eventually.

Anyway, I don't have a lack of power by any means, the truck is very powerful and pretty quick. I can beat most things on the road, even stomped a Hemi ram pretty good from 20-70 MPH I was 4 lengths ahead with him getting the jump on me first. I think it's just the classic shutter with the stock 131 DV's combined with marine injectors.
 
I also plan on getting DDP3's but thats way down the road. I'll probably get an ATS manifold before that. Besides, once I get the HX40 on, the DV's in, and the timing bumped I should atleast be pushing 350-375 RWHP and I'll be pretty darn surprised if the clutch doesn't start slipping yet. So far it's holding, perhaps it was replaced with a better than stock unit at some point? I doubt it since the truck was BONE stock when I got it, but I can always be hopeful LOL. At 250K miles the clutch had to have been replaced at some point in it's life.
 
I replaced the overflow valve on my truck. It was one that can be taken apart. It has 1/8" NPT threads on it. Only good for temp, since the holes are smaller than the inlet banjo bolt on the fuel injection pump. Outside of that, it screws right in.



The reason I asked about the fuel pressure, is because I've seen some pumps weak at low rpms, but flow enough the faster the engine runs.



I wouldn't think the stock dv would be an issue on your truck (like the 370s sometimes are), but I could be wrong.



Is the HX-40 a modded one, or an of the off the shelf stock 40? Will be more laggy than mine can be at times. I can spool it good, now. :D
 
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Matt, just get one from Geno's garage already tapped http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BF-LONG-TAPPED



What I did was use a banjo off a 24-valve with the schrader fitting in it and used it to replace the fitting on the outlet side of my filter canister. Then I bought a fuel pressure test gauge from Napa and just screw it on to the fitting whenever I want to check pressure.



Here is the Geno's page listing banjo fittings & fuel pressure gauge lines http://www.genosgarage.com/products.asp?dept=63
 
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Cooker this banjo works on the filter outlet and inlet to VP44, but not the P-pump since it uses a bigger one. I don't think you'd want to measure right at the pump anyway due to the fuel pulsations there.
 
Vaughn MacKenzie said:
Cooker this banjo works on the filter outlet and inlet to VP44, but not the P-pump since it uses a bigger one. I don't think you'd want to measure right at the pump anyway due to the fuel pulsations there.



I was asking because I am confused as to why you would recommend this fitting to a 12v owner? I was thinking maybe the banjos were the same size :confused:
 
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