24 valve/veggie oil

[MSalvatore]

Is bio safe for a 2002 ctd? We have filtered it with methanol/lye mix and water wash is it now safe?



Thank's

 

[Msilbernagel]

While you're in the mode of using WVO for fuel, I'd recommend reviewing what 'cj' has written in this forum regarding diesel secret. It's not just the 'secret' stuff but also the mix that brings the viscosity of the finished product to a point where you aren't frying the pumps. The DSE appears to contain something similar to xylols that serves to keep the stuff from gelling, plus you mix in Power Service, Kerosene, and a little unleaded to produce a product that is still inexpensive and appears to work without stressing the engine's fuel system.



On the bioDiesel front, using Methanol/lye isn't simply cleaning. It actually uses the combination to 'cut' the glyerine off the molecule, making the methyl-ester product that is much closer to diesel and better suited (without additives) to most of our engines.



Either way, I think you can make it work to your satisfaction and ease up on the repair bills!



Good luck,



Mark

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I have run WVO veggie for 2 years on my 99 dually. In the last 12 months/ 40,000 miles I have had 4 injection pumps go bad ( that includes the original pump ).



I have tried heating the oil on the first 3 pumps running 100% veggie and then tried unheated 75/25 mix ( veggie/diesel ) for about 6 months and just popped another pump.



I believe the module on the top of the VP44 went bad on at least 2 if not 3 of the failures I had.



Part of me thinks that the module is getting hurt by using an agressive mix of WVO but without knowing how the pump works its hard to tell.



I am considering the biodiesel method where you mix alcohol and lye to get the WVO cleaner and MAYBE it will run better and be less harmful to the VP44.



My opinion... get a truck that doesnt have a VP44 if you want to run WVO . Im getting tired of changing pumps and getting stuck many miles from home.

 

[RBahn]

Yes you need heat the oil to thin it enough to pump, but you need to really heat it to get it to the same viscousity of #2 otherwise it will not atomize properly and will build up on the injectors because it isn't burned completly. I am new to the the cummins world but what I have gathered so far is that the IP on the 98. 5's and later are sensitive and prone to failure, and expensive. If it is possible to heat the oil enough to pump it, then post pump, have an inline heater to really get it cookin, that could work. Just a thought

Bahndo

 

[6naline01]

Does's anybodyhave any info on FuelMeister

I am considering investing in the fuel meister from bio-solutions looking for some input. Thanks in advance 6Naline01

 

[DSiemens]

Do we have members using reacted (with lye & Methanol) fuel in VP44 pumped trucks?



My understanding on the reaction is that the Lye and methonal react with the fat in the oil to form glycerin soap, leaving a lighter oil, soap and some unconsummed methanol.



The lighter oil is what is called BioDiesel (BD) and is what is burned. The BD is much lighter and does not require to be heated in order to be burned. It's also been rumored that you should not use B100 when tempatures get below 45F. At 10F you should not use B20 as well.



When you first put BD in your truck you should not use anything greater than B20 because BD is somewhat basic and will clean your fuel system like never before and a B100 tank full will leave you walking shortly after fill up because the cleansing will plug the fuel filter. Plan to change your filter after a few tanks of B20 & B50.



Having only been reading, B100 reported works fine in the P7100 and 03/04 CR systems. It's unclear in 05/06 CR units. What reports do we have on VE and VP44 units? I suspect B20 works fine in all units as it's being sold but maybe someone has an experience they can share.

 

[Mr. C]

I am considering investing in the fuel meister from bio-solutions looking for some input. Thanks in advance 6Naline01

That's a nicely packaged and marketed system but "I" wouldn't even think of buying it. To be frank when I first got into biodiesel I almost bought that system until I found a web forum that had incredible volume of participants and I lurked for a while.

They (Biodiesel & SVO Forums ) had quite a bit to say about that system, and most of it was not flattering. Bottom line is if you are going to make your own you should strive to make a high quality product and maintian your safety and property. You can make very poor quality biodiesel and it will run in a diesel engine but the question os how long will it continue to run?



I would strongly sugest that you go to the site above and learn the basics before you start. That site has people from all over the world participating and there are proffessors, sceintists, chemisists, engineers, biodiesel production companies, guys like me and the list goes on and on that join in on the discussions. I have never been steered wrong and have saved a ton of money by learning from the participants of that forum.



By the way you will learn how to make your own processor for ½ the price of the system you are considering, and the one you make will be much safer.

 

[DSiemens]

Hi Mr. C



Any problem with your vp44 and BD? What have your experiences been with it?

 

[Mr. C]

I have just replaced the VP44 with a HotRodVP44 a couple months ago, but I don't think it was from running bio. I had a bad lift pump a couple years ago and didn't know it until I changed the fuel filter and it wouldn't prime (good reason to have a fuel presure gauge) and I'm sure that hurt the VP44. When it failed it was a fuel pump controller module code that was recorded, so I would conclude that the electronics took a dump not the mechanicals. Bio doesn't touch the control circuit electronics so I will not blame it for the failure. I put a note in with the core return to send me an autopsy of the pump but have not heard anything yet.



Other than that no problems what so ever.

 

[DSiemens]

I keep wanting to give Bio a try. I might try doing the kitchen run through with a pop bottle to observe how it works.

 

[LSchulz]

Having only been reading, B100 reported works fine in the P7100 and 03/04 CR systems. It's unclear in 05/06 CR units. What reports do we have on VE and VP44 units? I suspect B20 works fine in all units as it's being sold but maybe someone has an experience they can share.

The last tank I ran was B100, and here's what I observed: the truck ran better on B100 than on dyno. It was at quieter, both at startup and at highway speeds - less engine noise from the IP and such. Overall, the engine was smoother. It had slightly less power at higher RPMs, but for normal driving, I couldn't tell the difference. MPG's were down, but one tank isn't enough to really compare. By the end of the tank, I had noticed a slight drop in fuel pressure when really putting the pedal down. I changed my filter a few days ago, and it was definately dirty (only had 5,000 miles on it), and now fuel pressure is back to normal. I liked the smell of the exhaust a lot better. I don't know exactly how to describe it, but you couldn't miss it.



In conclusion: if it wasn't so expensive now, that's what I'd fill up on next (jumped up to $3. 75). I like the idea of running a domestically produced renewable fuel. Not to mention, the added lubricity can't hurt the VP44.



On that note, I'm still going togo ahead with a WVO conversion. I just got the system in that DT466 powered bus I mentioned earlier going, and everything seems to be running well, so it's on to the next project. All I've put in my truck so far is an insulated 85 gallon tank in the back. I have a heated fuel pickup waiting to go in. The heated lines will run to a pusher pump, heated filter/water separator, heat exchanger, selector valve, an electrically heated fuel line segment, and then finally the IP. With the heating capacity of the system, it should be able to run in cold weather. Now all I need to do is find time to do it all between classes...