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240 outlet recommendation

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My shop is almost finished. But now I'm at the point to where I need a dedicated 240 circuit and found different tools/equipment that run off 240 can have different plugs. What's the new normal if any type of wall outlet that can at least limit the need to buy adapters or change plugs on equipment and tools? Thanks everyone hope y'all are safe during these crazy times
 
You’re stuck. There is no standard per se. I have several welder outlets in my garage which only have two hots and a ground. However, I did pull a neutral wire into the box just in case I wanted to change the outlet to a dryer outlet style or RV style, two hots, a neutral, and a ground. They are all 50a, but are all different.

There’s nothing saying you can’t wire several different style of outlet plugs into the same breaker though. So you could wire all the different style of outlets you desire on the same circuit so you don’t need any adapters.
 
L5-30 for 3 prong
L14-30 for 4 prong

Those are most common I run across on the output of 30A UPS and small Portable Generator Connections
 
Hey guys sorry about that should of been more specific. But I was referring to diesel shadow statement as he nailed it. I guess what I don't understand is why welders, air compressor, plasma cutters and other equipment that use 240 just can't be standard like 120 equipment when amperage comes into play but then I guess that's why adapters exist. Thanks guy. First shop I'm building and it's kicking my butt as I'm doing it by myself with little help. Besides concrete me and my wife paid for that no way pouring and float 40x40 slab at 6" lol.
 
All shop equipment I have that requires 50A has the standard 2 wire (with ground) plug NEMA 6-50. Here is a chart with the various plugs you could have.

https://www.stayonline.com/product-resources/nema-straight-blade-reference-chart.asp.

I am also setting up a new shop. We bought a place that has a "shell" of a building and I'm doing all the work. I ran wire to a box, then Teed out of that to several boxes with various configurations to allow me to use whatever plug is necessary. I also built a variety of adapters to allow me to work in other things when I'm repairing them (dryers, welders, appliances, etc.). I did create 2 of the 6-50R outlets so I can have the welder and plasma cutter plugged in and turned on at the same time. That way one can have the fan running to cool it, while I use the other.

Amazing how much time I've spent running wire, wiring stuff in, etc. I just bought the 1000' spool of 12/2 and am just running 20A for all standard outlets. I have MANY breakers being used that way I can have 2 saws plugged into the same wall and not pop a breaker. That required a lot more wire too, since I alternate outlets per breaker. I've got 2 breakers per wall - so, according to common core math - that is 8 :eek:.

Then I have the 50A for the welders, 30A for a 110V welder, 50A for air compressor, outdoor lights, garage door opener, lights, etc.
 
I have a 200amp main feeding my 60" × 60' in the mancave, including 100amp secondary in my shop area. I have a 20 amp leg feeding 2 110VAC quads, and in the work area have three dedicated 20 Amp legs feeding it's own quad GFCI.

I only have three 50A dedicated circuits, electric side of solar HWH, swim spa, and air compressor. Unless you are running your 50A devices concurrently, you can either install the different configured outlets in parallel at each dedicated circuit or change the plugs on the devices.

Anyhoo, sounds like you're doing it right.

Cheers, Ron
 
Some shop tools are, at least somewhat portable so try to use the same type outlets in different spots. For example my portable 220 heater, my wire feed welder and my planer all use less current and share a smaller plug so I can move them where needed without dragging much heavier and more expensive cords around. My stick welder uses more power so it stays in that corner of the shop, pretty much. My RV 50 AMP circuit is 220 but I also have a 30 amp 110 outlet on the same circuit since only one is used at a time. As long as the wiring supplying the circuits is adequate, you can change the type of outlets as need dictates.
 
Wow thanks everyone for the input! This shop is kinda weird and it's really just a "make it work" thing. I bought this house and shop on a fence in acre for cheap as it was estate sale and being 28 years old it was in my price range for Seattle. The guy only concrete and drywall a 12x28 part and ran the 120 30amp part just for outlets and lighting and left the rest expose like a gravel carport. Roof all there and footing though. He never actually ran power out to it. He ran out of money and just gave up before kicking the bucket. So I dug my ditch 130 feet by hand with a trench shovel, ran big aluminum and hooked it all up, got the concrete poured, got siding and doors ordered up to finish and now I'm at the adding the 240 outlets stage.

It's not huge only 40x40 but I got 12 feet of clearance, everything I do passes code, and it's all funded by quiting chewing tobacco and alcohol . How ever being single income mechanic with three kids and wife this project has really tested my wallet but I'm excited to see it finally end!
 
John, you running wire in conduit? It used to be OK to use UF wire (underground feeder) for barn/shop (King County) but now I think it has to be single strand wires in conduit. Then flex or EMT? Flex is pretty easy to work with but not as clean of a look. Ah I hate to tell ya but these projects never actually end...
 
John, you running wire in conduit? It used to be OK to use UF wire (underground feeder) for barn/shop (King County) but now I think it has to be single strand wires in conduit. Then flex or EMT? Flex is pretty easy to work with but not as clean of a look. Ah I hate to tell ya but these projects never actually end...

So I'm actually in kitsap county in Port Orchard but I say Seattle as reference and as somehow we still are connected in terms of metropolitan area. But yes I did conduit can't remember if I did 1 3/4 or 2". I was trying to go for copper wire but I found a spool of left over big aluminum with ground for 100$. So 100$ plus another I think 120$ for new box and breakers to give me 240v/200 amps can't complain. But yes your right these projects never end. My shop isn't even finished yet and somehow I ended up building my wife a she shed with full power, flooring, tv and the works but atleast that's finish hahaha
 
Be sure to use NoOX on your aluminum connections. Re tighten after a few months.

I didn't use it initially but since my amp load is so low right now for the 200 amp wire he didn't flag me but he did say when I get inspections for 240v outlets he wants to see it done before he blesses me. The inspector actually torqued it for me the first time since I guess in my area people have been over tighting and actually breaking things
 
So, what did you ever do for your different plug configurations?
I can't remember the lingo but it's the 3 prong style that looks just like a normal 120 just bigger. Not installed but thinking that's the style as welders I look at has them. I'm running 4 wires in the wall just in case so if I change my mind or want to install a 4 prong outlet the wiring is there.
 
12542-2.jpg
This is it.I'll be doing separate legs one for compressor then the other for welder so when the big speed air kicks on while welding I don't pop any breakers. Thanks dieselshadow! It's a easy plug and like I said I'll be wire to the box both outlets as actual 4 wire setup for future ease. All that's left for electrical andthen finish siding and two doors for two 12x11 openings for my two bays and then Walla!
 
Notes to consider-
Make sure the ground prong (not blades) are up.
Don't put two on vertically, make 2 horizontally, else you will have the cord hanging down in the way (not that I would ever do that and have to change it). :rolleyes:
 
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