Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 24V advice

[AVerHage]

I am a first gen guy, but I'm coming home from Iraq soon and looking at a 2000 ext cab short box sport 24V automatic 4x4 with 165000 miles, what common things should I look for specific to it being a diesel, all Dodges need ball joints, I need pwertrain advice.

 

[JMetzger]

First off thank you for defending our country it is greatly appreciated. The first thing I would check is fuel pressure. If it doesn't have a fuel pressure gauge have someone check it for you. Check & see if it has any codes especially any that have to do with the fuel system. these 4x4 have a lot of wandering problems but you can put up with it. Mine has it to some degree but I am use to it. A lot of guys will come up with many other things. They are buy an large pretty good trucks.

 

[Mishkaya]

I am a first gen guy, but I'm coming home from Iraq soon and looking at a 2000 ext cab short box sport 24V automatic 4x4 with 165000 miles, what common things should I look for specific to it being a diesel, all Dodges need ball joints, I need pwertrain advice.

I would also suggest checking to make sure you are not getting a #53 block; as they are prone to cracking. A fuel pressure gauge is an absolute must on a VP44 truck, and I would highly suggest an aftermarket lift pump as well, just to be on the safer side of things. The death wobble is an issue, but has a cure. As far as I am concerned those are really the main issues with the second gen trucks. Good luck.

mishkaya

 

[LBARTLETT]

thanks for your service to us all,



as per the above check the 53 block (if so I would let it kill the deal but I'd sure use it for $$$ leverage and fuel pressure, stock lift pump or not and any associated VP44 codes, on the steering start with the



'Rock Solid' Ram Truck Steering !



cheapest fix for the dollars, from there you can go to the track bar, steering staiblizer etc.



with 175k on my 01' I just changed sway bar bushings and end links after being deteriorated from Kansas winters, some will depend on where the truck is from and what kind of care it had



you'll find a wealth of info on here, good luck!

 

[VHolloway]

I would love to have a 12v

you may want to look around for a nice 12v the 24v are a pain in the backside

the 24v are only as good as the fuel pump that feed it

#@$%!

 

[mgause]

Once again, thank you for serving our country and welcome home. I've had two 12v, one 2nd gen 24v and two 3rd gen trucks. All have their good sides and bad. I love the 12 v for its simplicity and bulletproof nature. In fact my favorite of all was a 96 12v with a #4 plate and DTT trans. However, you need to live with a bunch of worn out non-engine related crap (starter, draglink, brakes-crap, etc) if you buy even a marginally used 12v today (i. e. , less than 150. 000 mi). If you like to wrench and have the time go for it, you will be happy. 24v trucks are easy to come by today and a babied 4x4 that never went off road and only has 60k miles is very easy to come by. Fuel pressure gauge and a few other do dads and you have a trouble free truck for at least another 100k miles (assuming the vp44 doesn't let go).

 

[AVerHage]

Don't anyone worry I'm keeping my 12V but I am getting stationed in Georgia next summer and I want the newer truck to drive back and forth to Michigan, and why drive anything besides a Cummins. Thanks for all your input, what is the easiest way to check which block I have, I have the VIN#.

 

[LBARTLETT]

just do a thread search in 2nd gen's for the 53 block, it was just on here a couple of weeks ago with pictures regarding where to look for the number, if you can't find it pm me and I'll get it for you, welcome home!!!!

 

[bill8333]

Like above welcome home and thanks for everything you done. I just bought a 24V and it's a 53 block. It's as clean as the day it was made and I got a great deal on her. Not going to worry about it being a 53 block i've owned 2 of them and never had a problem.

Welcome Home

 

[VolsFan]

I wouldnt worry about the 53 block thing, I dont know what mine has and personally dont care, if it cracks it cracks and I'll deal with it. I love my 99 24 valve despite some issues that I have adressed to make it right again. First thing is the VP, just like everyone says, get a fuel pressure gauge. Relocate the lift pump to the frame rail, I used the Vulcan big line kit from Genos. Of course the exhaust temp gauge if you add a box, and from my experience, they work better with bigger set of injectors, and I feel better not tapping the pump wire by using a USB programmer. I just recently added the Lukes Link to rebuild the track bar, then the Maxx stabilizer bar links, and the DSS stabilizer, and my 4x4 handles beautifully. The only thing I am going to have to adress now is the fact that the bottom of my doors are rusting, I have been contemplating taking it to the local body shop I use and have them spray the gray on the bottom half of the truck with the bed liner stuff they use if they can match it pretty close to the orginal color