Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 24V Intercooler Install Questions

[HEMI®Dart]

I recently got a 24V Intercooler off eBay. I think its an '02-'01 since it is bare aluminum. It looks almost brand new. A lucky find. $220 to the door.



Folks that have done the swap any tips would be appreciated. Can I release the pressure from the A/C system with common hand tools? Do I need a special tool to seperate the condenser from the lines? Did you guys have to take off the bumper?



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[nfox]

24v intercooler

I did the swap on my 96 12v a couple of months ago, the a/c condensor will swing out of the way without disconnecting the a/c lines, it will be alot easier with the bumper off. I also had to lift the radiator up so the tubes on the bottom of the intercooler will clear when taking the old one out and installing the 24v intercooler. The only other thing i had to was remove the cross bar the goes between the fenders when installing the 24v intercooler because it is taller, but when it is bolted in place you can reinstall the cross bar in its original position. With the 24v intercooler and 5" exhaust on my truck i lost a 125* of exhaust temp. Any other questions feel free to ask.

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Thanks nfox. I was hoping you would see this thread. You mean I don't have to de-pressurize the A/C system?



Did you have to drain the radiator and undo the hoses?



Thanks



I remember Holeshot had a nightmare of a time when he swapped his.

 

[nfox]

24v Intercooler

No you do not have to disconnect the a/c lines the condersor will swing out of the way, and yes you will have to remove the radiator, it will make life alot easier. It is well worth the effort. Later!!Oo.

 

[rdrose]

I WANT ONE.

 

[83 crew cab]

you have probable all ready check this but the 12v and the 24 valve intercoolers I have differant size inlet and out lets (abut 1/4 inch bigger) so you may have to get a set of reducers George

 

[PWeber]

HEMI®Dart



Check your PM, I just sent you a messge.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

The radiator doesn't have to come out of the truck... but you have to lift it high enough to clear the IC inlet/outlet. So no coolant loss is a plus... .



The bumper has to come off... . and I was swapping my condensor for a new one anyhow... so off it came.



Removing the radiator support is a good idea... . but the way I did my swap... if I took out the support - I wouldn't have anything to use in conjunction with my big huge pry-bars to lift the radiator.



Matt

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Picked up the 24V Intercooler from the radiator shop today. He found 2 leaks on the end tanks from the welds. It must have been like that from the factory.

 

[Extreme1]

At a dyno run in Wausau, WI a few weeks ago I did a before and after run with the only change being the intercooler swap. Remove the bumper, swing the condenser out of the way (you might have to bend the tubes slightly while doing it), unbolt the fan and fan shroud. Remove the fan (and shroud if possible but it isn't necessary).



Unbolt the radiator and remove the clamps that are holding the intake boots to the intercooler. You will also have to get the trans cooler out of the way (if equipped). I had to remove the clamps for the hoses but not the hoses. (Remember to put the clamps on, the pressure side hose will blow off on a dyno ).



This is where it gets intruiging. You will need several pairs of hands (or a bit of time, patience and creativity) because you need to carefully lift the radiator up and slip the intercooler out. Then reverse the process.



I was fortunate enough to have the "Usual Suspects" on hand to help me out. I think that the most people I've ever seen work on one vehicle at a time that wasn't in a pit stop! There were at least 5 people involved in this waltz but it worked out great. (Thanks to everyone who helped!)

 

[R.ebel]

Originally posted by Extreme1

At a dyno run in Wausau, WI a few weeks ago I did a before and after run with the only change being the intercooler swap.

Did you gain any HP due to the incresed flow rate of the new cooler?

 

[HEMI®Dart]

R. ebel,



This is from another thread by Extreme1:



"10 horsepower and WAY cooler on the EGTs!!!! On the first run I had to take a few tries to get a run down that I didn't have to back out of for high temps. The worst was 1500. After the swap it maxed at 1350 and went no higher. I would like to try it again with the multi disk converter. I guess Dave was right when he told me I would over power the single disk!"

 

[HEMI®Dart]

Just finished the 24V IC install. It was not that bad. Removed the radiator. I figured it was a good time to flush it and spray it off. Tons of bugs and junk were in the fins(glad I did it). Removed radiator support and the vertical reinforcing bar. Now I know what you guys meant when you said to remove the bumper. The IC will not pull straight up and out. It can only go forward and back-wards. I DID NOT want to pull the bumper so I pushed the IC towards the engine (lots of room now) and lifted the left side out first. It came out OK. The extra 1-1/2" taller 24V IC really shows when you go to install it. You don't have as much room as the old one to maneuver it around. I dropped the drivers side in first and had to pry the IC inlet around the a/c lines. The mounting ear on the IC kept hitting the vertical radiator support. 20 mins later I finally got it in. Took some pulling and pushing, but I didn't have to remove bumper. Saved an hour +. The a/c condensor was not a problem. I just rested it on the bumper. Not in the way much at all.



I have not test drove it yet. I will report my finding later.



Thanks for the tips you guys.