250 to 350 susp.

[bighairyperson]

I am new and this is my first question. I want to know if I can change the front rotors on a 3/4 ton to a 1 ton so I can use dual wheels? Also, can I just put dual wheels on the 3/4 ton rear end? My project is putting a 1957 chevy,big back glass, 3100 pick-up body on a 92 or 93 Dodge Cummins for my pull truck. I have started having the 57 body made ready and I keep changing my mind on auto or stand. Thanks, Bighairyperson PS I use my stock 2000 dodge cummins with a auto overdrive and 3. 55 gears to pull {sometimes} my 450C dozer. Total of trailer and dozer is 22000+ and I just hit 100000 miles with everything in good condition!

 

[1stgen4evr]

and the answer is - - - - -

I plan to change the fronts on my D350 to the 250 style and run that wheel in an aluminum classic style. The trailer I use has the same wheel as the 250s so I have a spare already. Even if I don't have the trailer, one 250 spare will get me off the road to a repair point whether I am flat on the front or rear. The reason I am considering this is to reduce unsprung weight on the front. So, I am saying that you would not HAVE to change the fronts to run duals on the rear. Yes you can swap them.



But, you can't just put duals on the 3/4 rear axle. The one ton hubs are made different to accomodate the coined wheel of the one ton and there isn't enough clearance for the inside dual. No doubt you could space them to work. Some advise against that. I don't know one way or the other. You will most likely have to get a dually axle.



By pulling I guess you mean competition pulling a sled. Someone else will have to jump in on that. I don't hook nothing to my truck that I know will drag me to a stop.



And welcome to the group. Post a picture when you get that 57 cab mounted.



1stgen4evr

James

 

[MRickard]

<b>Welcome!</b>



For what its worth: You can swap around anything but it sounds like you may not really need to if you put 100K w/o any probs. I am not sure what rears are like on these dodges but a lot of times there are narrow ones and wide ones. You will have to at a minimum put in new studs (longer) and most likely have to have narrow tires. The benefit would only add in a few inches of width, so it is not really worth it. You could widen the rear, but that can cost some bucks. You may want to try a 12-16. 5 tire, heavyest duty version (they varry a little). Best benefit of a dually is usually stability rather than payload, by having it much wider, which drasticly helps. I have a project that utilizes a dually in place of a single setup, and the tires fit perfectly, axle and body stock (but narrow type rear), so I am not going to rule the possibility out, but for you I would get a dually or widen yours for the stability towing 22K+ - you will appreciate a more stable platform.



As for the front, a lot of times it is only an offset hub assembly which can be put on in your case, but I am not sure if your rig is 2 or 4 wheel drive. You do not have to have the offset frontend when you run dually rears, you just would have 2 different rims so that means an extra spare.



This is more for towing type of setup, if you do pulls (assuming competition stuff) I could not help you there 'cause I do not do any kind of that stuff.

 

[bighairyperson]

I should have been more detailed in my question. What I would like to know is, will the rotors, hubs and brgs. from a 91-92-93 D350 fit on a 91-92-93 D250 without changing the spindles and or brakes? Both trucks are diesels. Also in my first question I said my project 57 chevy/ dodge cummins will be my pull truck, wrong word. I will be towing a 3 axle gooseneck with my dozer on it and also taking it to swap meets with the trailer, it can hold 2 cars. I know that the dually rear end is wider but I was thinking about going to the narrow rear end because of the custom bed I am going to build for the truck and I do need dual wheels for the load. Thanks for your help. Bighairyperson

 

[tugboatphil]

BHP,



If you do get the one ton axle, there is an end to end length difference of about 6 inches, between a pickup axle and a cab and chassis axle. The C& C is shorter.

 

[Philip]

The SRW is the shortest axle for our trucks.



The C&C axle is the next length made. This axle is about 6" wider than the SRW axle.



The dually axle is the widest. It is around 10" wider than the C&C axle.



As far as I know the 3/4 and 1 tons used the same spindle assy's on the 2WD models.



The 3/4 ton rear does not have the coins built into the hubs to center the rims properly. Do a search on my user name on rear axles. I have posted a lot of info on the rear axles on our trucks.

 

[phillips5]

Yes the front roters/hubs do interchange. The difference is the dually has a spacer added to the front hub you could just add that . Look at the dually one closly you will see what I am talking about. I think I slid a dually rim on the rear of my 3/4 ton and it hit the springs.

 

[Philip]

The difference is the dually has a spacer added to the front hub you could just add that .

Our trucks do not use a spacer like the later models do. Or at least all the 1 ton 2WD's of this generation I have had apart didn't. Our hubs are cast as one piece ( up to 1986 at least). The dually hub spaces the dually wheel out about 5" to 6" to cover the deep offset the dually rims have. This prevents the tires from rubbing on turns.

I think I slid a dually rim on the rear of my 3/4 ton and it hit the springs.

Yes it will. It takes at least 3/4" of spacers to just clear the springs. I know this because my truck had a SRW axle when I got it. The "Previous Owner" ( or previous idiot) had installed it. You can only use the spacers on the part of the wheels that do not have coins. If you put them on the coins the wheel wobbles going down the road. The . PI. had used 5/8" flat washers as spacers. Needless to say I was @##^&*&%$%^% about it.