2500 vs. 3500 towing a 5'er?

[KB0OU]

I haul all the way from Alaska to Key West and I love my 2500, it hauls whatever I want it to haul, never had a blowout.

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96 CC 4X4 2500 SLT AUTO transmission WITH TRANS-GO KIT, PrimeLoc, ISSPRO EGT Boost transmission Temp, GUTTED CAT, 173,000+ Miles still goin' strong, Lots of Ham Radio gear, NO IGNITION NOISE!!! Love my diesel!!! # 8 TST Fuel Plate. 20K 5th Wheel, Goose Ball, Reciever with all size balls, Pintle. We Haul to Please!!!

 

[lhend50]

I was also concerned with pulling a 13000lb 5th wheel with a 2500. I pulled the trailer once and it was fine, but I decided to upgrade the rear tires to a heavier rating. I replace the E load range tires with a Goodyear G159. 14ply and steel sidewall. The truck feels very stable with these due to little or no side wall flex. I also have air lift 5000lb air bags to keep the load level. With this combination I don't feel a need for a dually.

 

[Turbo Thom]

KBO:
Have a blowout at 70, then come back. Can't wait to hear the tail then.
Good with your 2 rear tires.
Preston

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96 3500, Black SLT, 5 speed, turbo diesel, , with US Gear overdrive, Rhino liner, Reese 15,000 lb. fifth wheel hitch, US Gear de-celarator exhaust brake, muffler elimination kit, Amsoil lub. , Mag-hytec rear cover, dual-remote by-pass filters, and Roadmaster Active system, AutoMeter Pyro & boost, Primeloc

 

[dabubba]

ya-know I bought my 2500 since all my buddys said I didn't need the training wheels an dthe $200+ for the two extra wheels- I tow my fifth through one of the windiest area in nor cal and I didn't like how my trucks rear end wiggled from wind push- but the bottom line- drive one and then the other find a couple of tdr guys in your area and try their rigs- If your in my neck of the woods- give a yell- I'll hookup some weekend and go for a spin-- I'll even get a buddies 2500 for a fair compair-

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*Won Ton* 01 3500 eth 6spd- ez, pacbrake,practical solutions idler,MBII cb mount, bombed texas ranger CB,wilson 5000 cb antenna,weathertech visors,ultra boards, pace edwards roll cover, rbw little rocker, rhino liner,& NWC-TDR hitchplug,Mud flap,& More to come
*Pull Toys* y2k Cardinal 29rlb-lx, 175w solar panels, 1. 5kw trace inverter, dish net sat, colman fire pit

 

[Powder Extreme]

Racechaser, I pull a 38ft 5th wheel weighing 15k, or a 32ft gooseneck with an 18 flatbed behind it weighing around 20k. My old 2500 handled it what I considered to be quite well once I installed airbags. Then I bought a 3500, I can't believe how much better it is. Like everyone says, you don't even know the trailer is back there.
My advice is take a ride in a 2500 and a 3500 with similar loads. I'm sure some of the great guys here on TDR in your area would be more than happy to take you for a ride.
Also if you are planning on running commercially, you need a 3500, it doesn't take much to put a 2500 over gvwr.

Jerry

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2001 Quad Cab Dually, 6 speed ETH, SLT Plus, Isspro Pyro & 50lb Boost, Dual Fuel Pressure Guage, EZ Box, 275 injectors, Banks Power Pack, custom "Scotty style" airbox, amsoil dual bypass, 4" DD exhaust, Horton fan clutch, Ceramic clutch.

'94 SLT 4x4 V-10, straight pipes and a K&N (can't find anything else

 

[Eric_77]

I have never had a blow out on a radial tire in well over 500k of trailering/hauling miles. I have had leaks yes but never a blow out. Bias ply trailer tires oh my yes thought a propane tank exploded one night from the fireball. Keep an eye on tire pressures and you should be good either way.
I check pressures before every trip and rotate and balance every 5k. I have not seen a problem with wind with either truck but then I haven't pulled with a 1 ton in over 10 years. At the time I bought my trucks the 3/4 pulled more than 1 ton so I went with them and would do the same today even though they now pull less according to earlier post.

We got tired of replacing wheels and tires on our old Dually that had been scuffed, goose-egged or otherwise destroyed from the outer wheel being bounced off curbs. So when looking at trucks and finding ratings and such on 3/4 we went that route.

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Eric Kelcher
92 W250 stock 4spd/auto 3. 54
96 2500 extd SLT Diesel Dynanics fuel pump plate; auto with DD shift kit(?) Dun-Rite TC; 3. 54 posi; K&N airfliter; Boost, transmission temp, EGT guages waiting for nice day; 192K
13. 5k 33'utility trailer 19' Galaxie runabout

 

[Bob Ellithorpe]

For what it's worth,I'll add my . 02 cents worth!!
I personally have been towing trailers for over 20 years and the Dodge Cummins 3500 Dually is by far the best tow vehicle I've ever had!!!
I've experienced the "bow wave" effect when towing on an interstate with a lesser truck when a semi passes and I can't say I've ever had this happen with the dually.

 

[JohnS]

Having gone thru a blown tire incident while towing ~9k 5er @ ~ 75MPH with my 3500. I can personally say that it took the better part of the day to convince my rear to grip the seat a little easier... not to mention the initial removal of. From what was left of the tire it was apparent that I hit something and I kind of remember a "clank" but saw nothing on the road. Moral to the story... if you're going to tow big, particularly with the high hitch weights of big 5er's, do it right! I'll gladly accept that I won't get a close-up parking spot at the mall... or will take a curb going around a corner occasionally... or will have to go into the fast food joint opposed to the drive up if the two additional wheels maximize safety for my family and myself. I hate to think of the consequences with only a single rear tire per side. BTW, we were on our way to a hockey tournament in AZ for which my son was participating in, I've never been more happy to arrive somewhere in my whole life. Sorry for the long post.

 

[LandShark]

Racechaser: The biggest difference between the 2500 and 3500 is rear tire loading. Most 2500's with heavy loads are at close to 100% of the rated load capacity for an 'E' rated tire. This causes sway and premature tire failures.

My 2 cents would be to use a 2500, but upgrade to Rickson (or similar) wheels with 'G' rated tires. This would take care of the sway problem, overloading problem, and blowouts would be quite rare. They also look very cool!

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1995 2500 SLT Club 4x4, auto, 3. 54, 3600 pound Elkhorn slide in camper, AirLift air springs, Ricka dual wheel adapters (used only with the camper on), K&N, DC tow hooks, Rancho RS9000, Hellwig rear sway bar.
111,000 miles and counting.

 

[Batman]

Racechaser, just my $. 02, I went directly from a 1500 SWB to a dually when I knew we would be getting a 5er. I have towed a 7k lb 16 cargo trailer with the 1500 and noticed that I didn't notice the trailer was behind the 3500 #ad

IMHO, go with the dually, you won't regret it. Once you remember how wide your a$$ is, you'll do fine.
Hope this helps you out.

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George
2001, 3500 4x4 dually, auto, 4. 10 LS, camper & tow groups, RBW 15K hitch, Lund Visor, Westin Platinum CPS nerf bars, OEM front mud flaps, after-market rear flaps.
Stock... ... ... . for now!

 

[Viper Puller]

I wouldn't think of pulling a 2 car trailer without a 3500. We pull a 48' Featherlite 2 car 3 axle all aluminum trailer. Loaded, with cars, tools, tires, etc. the tongue weight is enough to put the rear axle just below the axle load rating of 7500lb. I don't think that the axle load limit on a 2500 is anywhere near this. 3500 is very stable pulling this while the 2500 would be nerve racking to do it...

Just my $0. 02...

 

[RustyJC]

The tongue weight of a 5ver of any substantial size is going to put a 2500 over its 8,800 lb GVWR with any kind of passenger, cargo and/or fuel load.

One reason we will be purchasing a new ETH/DEE 21,500 lb GCVWR 3500 to replace our current 19,000 lb GCVWR 3500 is to ensure that we're "legal" on GVWR and GCVWR while pulling our 13,500 lb 5ver. If one were to get in any kind of accident, regardless of who seems to be at fault, once it is determined that a rig is overweight, the lawyers and insurance companies will have a field day. #ad
If for no other reason than to protect yourself legally, I would be sure the truck you select will be safely within all of its ratings when towing. #ad


Rusty

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96 4x2 Driftwood 3500 Club Cab SLT V-10, automatic, 3. 54 axle, trailer & camper groups, all the 96 goodies, factory CD changer, Reese 14K 5ver hitch, B&M auxiliary trans cooler, 205* fan clutch, Smittybilt side step tubes

Towing a 13,500 lb 36' triple slide 2000 Jayco Designer XL 3610RLTS 5th wheel.

Looking for 2001. 5/waiting to order 2002 bright white/tan leather 4x2 Quad Cab 3500 SLT+ Sport ETH/DEE, 4. 10LS axle

2000 Durango SLT+ 5. 9L, bright white/tan leather, all the goodies (wife's ride)

 

[wrk2mtch]

I used to have a 1976 Toyota with a 7' Pastime camper on the back (still have the truck). It handled the camper really well, but I decided to upgrade to a 24' Wilderness trailer (5k on the truck scale). Before I bought the trailer I went through the entire brake system, converted it to a dually and had Torque Lift Central in Kent build me a custom hitch (10k nice work!). Nobody thought I'd be able to tow such a load but it handled well and I never had any white knuckle trips. With myself, two dirt bikes in the back and the trailer I was at 9600lbs (yes, I know, way over what I should have towed) but other than the time I went over Steven's pass (1st gear on the steep part west-bound, overheating, and getting nervous. If only I would have had a turbo and an oil cooler... ) I never had any problems. I would never have done something like this with out the "training wheels" on the back. I have decided I need a club cab and when I trade it will be for a 350 or 3500.

What are your thoughts on stick vs. auto? I see that there is a mix of both here.

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'90 LE W250, 727, 3. 07, Line-X bedliner, 140k miles,



[This message has been edited by Terry H (edited 05-17-2001). ]

 

[Vic]

Originally posted by lhend50:
I decided to upgrade the rear tires to a heavier rating. I replace the E load range tires with a Goodyear G159. 14ply and steel sidewall. The truck feels very stable with these due to little or no side wall flex

Went looking today for such tires at local dealer. He called Goodyear who told him that
they have a 235/85R16 14 ply for $235. (They drew a blank on the G159 designation. )
But Goodyear says it requires a special rim because it runs at 100 psi. Seems to me that a rim that can handle 80 psi should take 100 psi. I've been running load range E tires for 10 years on my 1991 truck but have a new 5th wheel about 3000 pounds heaver (around
10,500)and am thinking about going to the 14 ply.

Question, Do I need to buy special rims?

Aside. Got 238,000 miles on my '91 with about 100,000 of that actually towing a 5th. It's been reliable. No AT problems, and the Cummins runs like new.

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[LandShark]

Vic: Check the Goodyear Site for the specs on the G159LT. If you load the tires at 3042 pounds (the max for the E tires) the recommended inflation is 80psi. I suspect your stock rims would have no problem with this or a bit higher.

 

[Bob Ellithorpe]

I've had both and currently have a dually. For me it's the only way to go.

I like the added safety that the DRW's provide. One blowout with a 2500 with a good size trailer and the property damage and medical bills will look small compared to the extra cost of the dually.

 

[Roxy]

Dually for 5'er

I have pulled TT with a car, and with a pickup and remember the feeling I would get every time an 18 wheeler passed me from either direction, even using good sway controls. When we retired I knew I was going for a 5'er for the reason that they are supposed to pull more stable, whether you are using a dually or not, because the load is right over the axle. I read everything I could get my hands on regarding pulling with a dually and it all said the dually would be the best choice. That is what I bought and I have never regretted it. I have never got that uneasy feeling when an 18 wheeler passed me. I have pulled through some pretty stiff crosswinds with no problem whatsoever. I have also lost a valve stem sometime during a days pull and was never aware of it until I checked my tire pressures the next day before hooking up to pull again. I use my P/U to go almost every where and very seldom have a problem getting in places. I never found it to be difficult to drive or even park. I really enjoy driving it!