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The drawbar broke and I damn near run over the flag man. :-laf I still cant figure out why he was so close to the truck, you should have seen his eyes... :eek: I clutched it real quick and jammed on the brakes. I missed him by 10 feet or so. They counted it and I ended up with 3rd. :p

I wont use a factory welded draw bar anymore, time to fire up the welder.
 
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:rolleyes:



Why do you guys keep insisting on hooking up with tinker toys?



Holeshot saw my original hitch, it was commercial, a little machine work to hold a nice big Crosby shackle, and your done for reasonable cash, and safe.
 
Remember Gene, I hook about 4 times a year. I dont have $100 to invest on a pulling hitch. Besides, we both know I am too underpowered and under tractioned to need all the big stuff. The hitch was several years old, and had about 10 hooks on it, I should have known better. I'll have to remember to clear it with Holesnot next time. :p
 
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a few weeks ago a guy in a 2nd gen cummins snapped a hitch off the same way at the buck. Truck took off like a rocket ship! 4wd and full boost when it let loose :)
 
Under powered... . ?? remember your drining a Dodge even underpowered it is better than most other brands. .



I am thinking you were building boost against a sled with the breaks on??... lol



Glad to hear nothing else happened as a result of the hitch breaking.



Craig
 
Sleddy, you weren't the FLAG MAN were you... ... ... :-laf



And who are YOU to be calling everyone HILLJACK... ... :-laf



PS Finally got the puter working again... lol (for now)
 
JT we have built a bunch of tractor pulling hitchs that are close to what you need... We use either a solid 2in, 1/4 or 1/8 walled sq tubing... Then buy a clevis we buy the ones that are 3/4 to 1in dia with about 3 - 3. 5 opening. . we usually cut part of the eylets off the clevis and weld the clevis on the sq stock... if you have a good enough bender you can can use round stock and bend it instead of cutting up a clevis. .

The only problem on the trucks is that it is not adjustable. .

Good luck. .

Bryan



(also check you rules... most places should have some specs for the hooking point... thickness and dia of opening... usually 3/4 or 1in. . and a 3in opening. . )
 
Jim said: "I'll have to remember to clear it with Holesnot next time. "



Holesnot? That's a new one. :)



Nah - I'm a 12-valve owner and have no business worrying about ISB powered trucks. :-laf



Matt



BTW - I was in Fennimore for ~14 hours on Saturday...
 
dont laugh

Matt... I contacted Sleddy just after Muncie to see if I could make up a bunch of WWSPD tee shirts to sell at Scheids, but he never did get back to me. I just need to know if that name is copywrited.



Back to business...

I have rounded up some steel, so now I just need some time to get to work on the new hitch.



Another sour grape... the head lifted again... this time with only 35psi. I had thought about re-torquing, but I think I am pass that stage. The gasket seems ok for normal driving. I have been watching the fluid levels, and there are no bubbles in radiator. I am pulling another oil sample to send in this week. I am going to pick up a coolant system pressure tester this weekend ( I need one anyways). That should tell the tale.
 
I have some military clevices that are a little over 1 1/4" in diameter with a good 3 inch or larger opening and supposedly rated at about 60 tons. Are these by any means usable to pull with? Because if they are Everyone on here needs to talk to someone in the national guard and come home with a pair or two. I know some guys at Fort Knox who are getting junk/ decomissioned parts like that for free. I'll get some actual dimensions but if you have any idea about their sled pulling usefulness let me know.
 
I had a picture of a CTD Dodge about to make a hook - he had a "WWSPD?" sticker on the quad-cab window. :-laf



I seriously doubt that it's copyrighted... if it isn't - now's your chance!



Seems like the HO ISB's like to lift their heads...



Gene said: "I am a Hilljack Sophisticate. "



:-laf



Matt
 
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