2800 miles and bad batteries or sumpin else?

[David Hoffman]

Hey all,

Looking through the forums I see issues all over the place about the batteries going dead due to draw to keep electronics going, not running long enough, etc..

I just got this 2017 2500 Cummins new with 750 miles. Went to start it other day (garage kept) and ~ 60 degrees in the garage. Noticed the pre-heat took longer than normal, and wouldnt crank at all.

Put a charger on it few hours and it started. Pre-heat still looks like it was taking longer, maybe weak battery. However it started and I took it for a 30 minute drive.

What concerns me is it actually DID this on a NEW (I'm first owner) 2017 with less than 3k miles.

Recently I noticed the instrument panel would light up anytime I'd walk past the truck and had wondered why.

Thoughts? Comments?

 

[JR]

Depending on the actual build date of your truck, your batteries could very well be 3 years old. With such low mileage your truck has done alot of sitting with a constant draw on the batteries, which is the worst thing you can do to a battery. I'd suggest a good long charge at as low an amperage as possible. Just for reference, a dead 50 amp hour battery would require approximately 6 hours on a 10 amp charge. Your batteries have a higher amp hour rating, X 2 (batteries). When I'm slow charging a battery I prefer the 2 amp setting on my charger. Slower is better if you can afford the time.
After a good charge if they are still suspect you will need to disconnect the crossover cable that connects the two batteries and load test individually. Going forward if your truck sits alot it would be a good idea to buy a battery tender and put it on a trickle charger to keep the batteries topped off.

 

[TCDiesel]

OK, ,These systems in the 4th gen trucks will really charge you up........My 2013 sits up 14 Days form Mid NOV-April, I will start it up and drive it when the weather allows during that time frame, Hmmmm this winter season the roads stayed nasty except for a few days... My New Deka's (Dec 17) would not start the Truck back in Mid Fed after sitting for 14 Days. the 11v syndrome, So I recharged them both and tested they checked out.

SO I called East-Penn... I mentioned I had 4W solar charger wired correctly to Driver Battery.

The Person form East-Penn ask Me does that truck have those proximity Sensors and I said Yes. He said 4W is not enough, BC those sensors are always drawing power for the alarm system...That make sense BC when you wash the truck the lights (Parking) lights go on and off.

He also said you must keep your Batteries fully charger and that you will need 7W or better Solar charger, and He stated to fully Charge those Batteries once a month if its sits for those time frames. He said if I don't keep those batteries fully charged they won't last.

He said don't concern yourself with the 220amp charging system, its simply designed to produce amperage charge at draw, the system design to maintain levels in the Batteries so the 7w+ will replace the usage but will NOT charge them and neither will the charging system on the truck....So form Now on if the truck sits I will charge them monthly.

I agree with JR.
David Hoffman, I left a long detail explanation why this happens and how to resolve.

 

[TCDiesel]

I also started the truck and Drove it into the shop/Garage at my House before We left to West Yellowstone, it sat in the shop for 2 Days with all the activities in the shop when I went to start it after sitting in the shop for 2 Days it would NOT Crank just the click blues, Yep Driver battery at 12.1 and rider battery 11.8 ...the protection system engage and would NOT crank. I put the battery charger on 10amps for about 12 Hrs, but it would only charge to 80% on both batteries. So started right up Monday and headed to the cabin in West.

Yesterday I called East Penn Again....I cannot say enough good things about East Penn....Talk to the same guy I talked to before and He stated depending on the type of Charger used it will show 80% and that's fully charged.

The proximity sensors are always on drawing power...Just think like this even walking up to the truck they pick up the movement, this is for safety reasons why they need to be powered up all the time...How many owners jump in their vehicle start it and drop it into gear all in 2 seconds, those sensors need to warn the driver instantly of objects and movement...If you don't have keyless start entry and the proximity sensors you should not have this problem ,in that case your batteries need replacing.

David H your not alone

 

[David Hoffman]

I also started the truck and Drove it into the shop/Garage at my House before We left to West Yellowstone, it sat in the shop for 2 Days with all the activities in the shop when I went to start it after sitting in the shop for 2 Days it would NOT Crank just the click blues, Yep Driver battery at 12.1 and rider battery 11.8 ...the protections system engage and would NOT crank. I put the battery charger on 10amps for about 12 Hrs, but it would only charge to 80% on both batteries. So started right up Monday and headed to the cabin in West.

Yesterday I called East Penn Again....I cannot say enough good things about East Penn....Talk to the same guy I talked to before and He stated depending on the type of Charger used it will show 80% and that's fully charged.

The proximity sensors are always on drawing power...Just think like this even walking up to the truck they pick up the movement, this is for safety reasons why they need to be powered up all the time...How many owners jump in their vehicle start it and drop it into gear all in 2 seconds, those sensors need to warn the driver instantly of objects and movement...If you don't have keyless start entry and the proximity sensors you should not have this problem ,in that case your batteries need replacing.

David H your not alone

I do have the remote start (2X button to start), but have to insert the key in and turn it to continue.
I only have rear backup sensors, not front and when walking within 8 ft of the front/side of the truck.. Instrument cluster lights up..

Just weird...

Having the dealer look at it..

 

[TCDiesel]

Those sensors need to detect that FOB before you are in reach of the door handle..

Ok here's another tip, if you have keyless go and leave that FOB in the Cab plan on your Batteries being NO CRANK in 3-4 Days

 

[TCDiesel]

I do have the remote start (2X button to start), but have to insert the key in and turn it to continue.
I only have rear backup sensors, not front and when walking within 8 ft of the front/side of the truck.. Instrument cluster lights up..

Just weird...

Having the dealer look at it..

Yep, those rear sensors will do it, I have rear sensor + keyless go ,So in addition I have the sensor in the mirrors .

Hmmmmm, I would mention it to the Dealer and get paper work on .But NWIH would I let them mess with it, other then RFM update form RAM.

 

[TFucili]

Starting batteries are not tolerant of being run flat. It's not just a matter of re-charging. Each time it happens you lose some capacity. I think I'd separate the batteries, charge, and load test each. I have had better luck with old-school load tester than the gee-whizz electronic ones. YMMV

On Edit:
This is in addition to all the good advice given on the operation of all the electronic gimmickery.

 

[David Hoffman]

Those sensors need to detect that FOB before you are in reach of the door handle..

Ok here's another tip, if you have keyless go and leave that FOB in the Cab plan on your Batteries being NO CRANK in 3-4 Days

I dont have the keys on me when this happens... though, my keys on the key ring are about 12ft away, inside the door of the house.
I just wonder if they are too close, all the time..(hmm)
Also, I have the kind of keys (not a FOB) that you insert into the ignition, turn to start (though there is very little resistance.. ie not really turning a set of tumblers, so to speak..)

 

[TCDiesel]

Its Still (WIN) wireless ignition node. So although not having keyless go it still needs to detect signals (RFM) radio frequency module ,sensors are still powered up.

 

[TFucili]

OK, somebody on here can invent an RF shielded "key vault", and become rich and famous...

 

[TCDiesel]

O

OK, somebody on here can invent an RF shielded "key vault", and become rich and famous...

Heeheee, but who's going to do the jail time?

 

[TCDiesel]

If I take My WITECH and reset/set my Truck to Pre-delivery none of the wireless stuff works...You must unlock the door with key and start the vehicle this way.

 

[Regcabguy]

My neighbor's new Prius has been towed to the dealer three times for a no start.
They said basically the same. Drive it as there's so many electronic gadgets the vehicle's always drawing current.

 

[TFucili]

If I take My WITECH and reset/set my Truck to Pre-delivery none of the wireless stuff works...You must unlock the door with key and start the vehicle this way.

I believe he is member TooTall on here.

 

[David Hoffman]

If I take My WITECH and reset/set my Truck to Pre-delivery none of the wireless stuff works...You must unlock the door with key and start the vehicle this way.

LOVE Marion!!

 

[Ozymandias]

Hey all,

Looking through the forums I see issues all over the place about the batteries going dead due to draw to keep electronics going, not running long enough, etc..

I just got this 2017 2500 Cummins new with 750 miles. Went to start it other day (garage kept) and ~ 60 degrees in the garage. Noticed the pre-heat took longer than normal, and wouldnt crank at all.

Put a charger on it few hours and it started. Pre-heat still looks like it was taking longer, maybe weak battery. However it started and I took it for a 30 minute drive.

What concerns me is it actually DID this on a NEW (I'm first owner) 2017 with less than 3k miles.

Recently I noticed the instrument panel would light up anytime I'd walk past the truck and had wondered why.

Thoughts? Comments?

Why do people drain their batterys for nothing with that 180A pre heat sucker, that is not needed to start the Cummins.
Just jump into the truck an start it like a gasser, it starts at the third crank turn without problems.


Maybe the pre-heat is usefull at the south pole, but not in our ambient temperatures down to -30°C.
It fires right up.

 

[JR]

If using a remote start you have no choice, the computer will wait for the grid heater cycle to complete before starting.

 

[TCDiesel]

i

Why do people drain their batterys for nothing with that 180A pre heat sucker, that is not needed to start the Cummins.
Just jump into the truck an start it like a gasser, it starts at the third crank turn without problems.


Maybe the pre-heat is usefull at the south pole, but not in our ambient temperatures down to -30°C.
It fires right up.

If the grid heater pull the batteries down ,then yes that's the way to start. but if the system detects low Voltage it makes no difference.

I'm with ya on jump in and start at temps above 0F. Temps 0 to -5F iffy ,-5F or colder you need/should use the grid heaters

 

[gsbrockman]

Hey all,

Looking through the forums I see issues all over the place about the batteries going dead due to draw to keep electronics going, not running long enough, etc..

I just got this 2017 2500 Cummins new with 750 miles. Went to start it other day (garage kept) and ~ 60 degrees in the garage. Noticed the pre-heat took longer than normal, and wouldnt crank at all.

Put a charger on it few hours and it started. Pre-heat still looks like it was taking longer, maybe weak battery. However it started and I took it for a 30 minute drive.

What concerns me is it actually DID this on a NEW (I'm first owner) 2017 with less than 3k miles.

Recently I noticed the instrument panel would light up anytime I'd walk past the truck and had wondered why.

Thoughts? Comments?

Since you purchased it brand new, you’re still under the 3/36. Have the dealer replace both batteries.

Better yet........” kill” both batteries, then arrange Roadside Service to tow your truck to the dealer for TWO new batteries.