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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 2k rust

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Mystrery Problem

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Window outer-belt molding

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Update

Called the dealer yesterday to find out if I could pick up my rig this morning. Well... seems that after painting and hanging the new drivers door (getting ready to install all the components), they figured out that it was for a regular cab and not a quad cab. :mad: My confidence is not high right now... the only reason I did not uncork on them is that DC is paying for the fix. They did look at the passenger door and may be replacing it also... hope they get the right one for it. :rolleyes: Maybe I should just get some fabric doors from a Wrangler and cut them to fit. :D



Evidently, all the lines on the doors are the same except for the upper aft corner, which is square on quad cab version.
 
Door Rust Update

Called the dealer again today (Tuesday). The service manager took a look at the passenger door yesterday and said to replace it too! Looks like I'll have two new doors on a 4. 5 year old truck:eek:



Other than the fact that they got the wrong door on the first try, I'm extremely happy that they took it upon themselves to check both doors and are replacing them. Just wish it hadn't happened at all:mad:



I'm supposed to get it back this Thursday or Friday. Hope I do... I miss it a lot:{ Oo. :D
 
The same problem exists on the back tailgate as the doors!!:mad: Open your tailgate and look at the rolled lip seam at the bottom of the tailgate on the inside. More than likely you will see the paint starting to blister!:{ :{
 
Door Rust Update #2

Called the dealer today... drivers door is in place and "jam painted" or "jammed". Passenger door just came in today's parts shipment, so I won't get my pickup back until next week! It'll be gone 14 days on Monday. A little excessive IMHO:mad:.



Looked at an '03 today to see if the door is designed differently on the new ones. Appears to be built better for drainage.



I'll take a look at my tailgate -- thanks Challenger II. This just should not be happening to an extremely clean 4. 5 year old pickup. :(
 
Surprise

Noticed this today as I was washing the truck. It just appeared this winter. This is the passenger side door bottom. I had the drivers side door replaced in '98? due to the same thing. Warranty covered it.





Idaho Native, When they hang new doors they re-used the guts ( window track, weatherstriping, ect. ) I was happy with my new door but watch out for these little things. New rattles. Window goes slower than before. Door not sealing at the bottom (weatherstrip) rubber grommet that surrounds window frame put on incorrectly. Pricey Dodge rain deflector got busted.

:rolleyes:



Just what you wanted to hear I'll bet. :D
 
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I bought this stuff called Corroless from Eastwood a couple years ago. You can paint it on rust and stop it in its tracks.



I use it for coating any holes I drill through the body or frame for hitches, etc.



Not sure whats in it, if you read the contents label

"Contents partially unknown"

Toluene

acetone

methanol

Propane/isobutane.



Must be a way they dispose of toxic waste, but it really works.



I have a screw driver laying outside that was rusty, and I used it to mix up the stuff about 3 year ago. The part that was coated is still clean, the rest of the screw driver is covered with rust.



It can be sprayed.



Check out this system form eastwood Everything you need to spray undercoat into those doors for under $100. 00
 
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Update #?

Was supposed to get my pickup back from the dealer today. Called at 9a. m. and was told that "they had problems in the spray booth with the vehicle in front of mine. " Doors got sprayed late this afternoon... baked until about 5 p. m... . can't pick it up until Monday afternoon at the earliest! That will be day 21 since I dropped it off for the original rust repair:mad: . At any rate, I now have an appointment on Monday with the service manager and the customer service senior representative... I've been very patient thus far. No sense in blowing my stack and having them rush the job, but 21 days is a bit excessive, and the service manager wholeheartedly agreed with me. He was totally suprised that I didn't have it back yet... warranty work doesn't go back through them after the collision center finishes it. He figured it was done long ago. I'll post an update on Monday...
 
Originally posted by Idaho Native

Matt,





I did find the two plastic plugs in the bottom of both doors that were still in place:mad: The guys in the dealer body shop said that these should have been removed... but didn't say that it was a dealer prep kind of thing.

Loren



Loren, I had plugs in my 2000 and they were still in place. I pulled them out and did not see any moisture so I put them back in since it seemed like I would get a lot of dirt and moisture in the door if I took them out? I have not looked at my 2002 to see if they are in or out? Are these plugs really suppose to be removed? If so what keeps all of the dust and crap from getting up inside your door and screwing up the speakers and the other electrical stuff?
 
Catch-22

Pit Bull,



I think you made some excellent points for not removing them... dust and moisture could certainly migrate up into the door if they're removed. Much of their effectiveness would have to do with the environment that you operate in. I don't operate in much dust, so that wouldn't be a problem for me. On the other hand, my pickup is not parked inside much, so I think it does get more chance for moisture to migrate down from the top side of the door and then it didn't drain out through any holes that were opened.



Bottom line is that it is a poor design by Daimler-Chrysler! They guys in the body shop said that they recommend removing the plugs... which I will do in addition to coating the inside of the door with some concoction like the two recipes earlier in this thread.



Loren
 
I checked my door plugs and they are not in. It must have come from the factory with no plugs. See the picture 5 posts back.
 
Re: Catch-22

Originally posted by Idaho Native

Pit Bull,





The guys in the body shop said that they recommend removing the plugs... which I will do in addition to coating the inside of the door with some concoction like the two recipes earlier in this thread.



Loren



Loren I checked and my 02 came without the front plug's in both doors. Started a thread and all of the 02 guys are reporting no front plug. I think I will spray some WD40 in the hole and leave it like it came. Maybe they have learned something and that is why the front plug is gone???
 
Interesting... a co-worker of mine was test driving an '02 Cummins so I looked at the bottom of his doors after reading what was on the other thread. Just like yours, the front plugs were removed on the '02... looks like you might be onto something. Maybe if I do that to my "new" doors along with squirting something inside the outer skin, they'll last more than four and half years:cool:



Loren
 
door rust

U would think that DC could do something right. Thank god they offer a Cummins!



Couldnt believe my eyes yesterday. After reading this post I checked my doors on my 2001 2500. Guess what, front and rear plugs in the bottom of both doors and blistered paint and rust ALL along the inside bottom edge of the doors.



After alot of denial and swearing out loud in the garage (just proved to my wife I am crazy) I need to know what to do. How long is the rust warranty on our trucks. Should I pull one or both of the plugs in the doors. I have my truck Ziebarted every year, how much damage should I expect under the rust and blistered paint. How easy is it to get DC to replace the rusted doors. I would probably wait until the rust warranty is just about to expire before I went in.



Any thoughts, ideas, opinions? At this rate when I hit 500K i'll be sitting on a milk crate tied to the frame!.



Thanks

J-
 
Warranty

J-,



Don't know if you saw previously in this thread, but the DC warranty is 5yr/unlimited mileage on rust-through of the outer panels on the vehicle. Take it to your favorite dealer:D and have the senior service rep look at it. I was thinking of having my new doors Ziebarted until I read what you just wrote.



You're idea of waiting until the warranty gets closer isn't too bad! Take a look at the pics HEMIDart posted... those were DC replacement doors that have rusted through... again! I know for a fact that I won't wait that long to have new wheels in my driveway.



Loren
 
It's Home!

Picked it up at around 5 today! Entire new drivers door... new skin on passenger door. Overall, the job is about a 7. 5 on a scale of 10. They did an excellent job of matching the paint. Of course, they have an optical computer program to do it. The doors seal well and don't have any new wind whistles or rattles.



Downgrades: missing rub strip on front inside of drivers door where it mates to windshield strip. Gray primer overspray line around edges of rear door on both sides. 21 days from drop-off time! It's going back in to clear the first two gripes.



Body shop floor manager did give me a voucher for a free oil change at the time of my choosing. He was not happy with his service tech that ordered the wrong door... and had to back order the new ones at least once!







I'm getting some Eastwood's rust proofing/treatment from a buddy (it looks just like the stuff that was sprayed inside my wife's Durango doors). Sort of a waxy brown oily paste when it dries. I noticed that there are two more drain holes in the front- and rear-most section of doorskin/frame junction than it had from the "factory".



Loren
 
rust

Yeah my bad I saw the stuff about the warranty after i already posted. ANyone have an opinion on the drain plugs. Both of mine are still in on both doors. Should I remove one or both. I live in Michigan and we got 6 inchs of snow yesterday 4/7, so we get a good dose of salt and slush for a LONG part of the year. We even get snow later in the year sometimes!



I was thinking of checking out an electro-static ( i belive) "rust proof" system that I saw on 2 Guys garage acouple of weeks ago. It uses a low constant voltage run through the truck frame and body to combat rust. Anyone have one or have seen one work?



Thanks

J-
 
J the front plug on all of the 02's seems to be removed. I guess the reasoning is that the rear of our trucks is higher so the moisture would drain out the front. Mine came that way when I bought it. My 2000 had the plugs still in both doors. Based on where you live I would get some professional help with the potential door rust after the Dealer fixes your doors under warranty. I am sure you have the worst possible conditions for rust in Michigan. JMHO
 
Re: Warranty

Originally posted by Idaho Native

J-,







You're idea of waiting until the warranty gets closer isn't too bad! Take a look at the pics HEMIDart posted... those were DC replacement doors that have rusted through... again! I know for a fact that I won't wait that long to have new wheels in my driveway.



Loren



The picture of the rusted door bottom is the passenger side OEM door from '94. I had the drivers side door replaced under warranty in '98. It is still rust free and looks as good as new.



JCyrbok



D/C should replace the doors w/ no hassle.
 
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You can never fix it like new. Por 15 is good but you will never stop oxygen getting to the fold hence the rust will continue. I put 3M yellow panel sealer in my truck soon as I got it home. I have a Chevy 7000 28,000 GVW which I bought new in 84. One door years ago I slammed and the glass broken inside which clogged it. That door has some rust and the other is clean after all these years with no rust. Oil may be the best to slow it try PB rust Buster. Yoy can get it in Pep Boys and better than WD by far. Paint the outside with POR 15, that is some good stuff but won't go in the fold. New door for my Chevy was 250. 00. I didn't install it yet. I did slow the rust in the Chevy for the last 4-5 years but it's coming on the interior of the panel. Rust is my pet peeve. When I got the truck I went under the truck with POR 15 chassis coat and did all the factory misses. Did the shaft the springs and other spots. Did inside all the panels I could find with the 3M stuff. It never gets hard and seeps into any crevice.
 
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