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2nd vs 1st gen power

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Fuel Heater

Cummins Valve Cover Gasket #

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I've owned a 91 d250 w/ a 3. 54 and a getrag and currently own a 95 (see sig). I drove a 93 w250 cc 3. 54 today and just like my 91, it was way faster than my 95. My 95 has 4. 10s, but only 88k, burns zero oil, makes 15 psi boost and has no cat. Are 1st gens just more powerful stock? If I put that stage 1 TST kit on my 95 will it not be a pooch anymore? I've driven other 2nd gens and my truck is not abnormally slow, although it's past due for a valve adjustment. Opinions?
 
The truck I had before this one was a 91. 5 and it wasn't even close to this truck. The old one had the pump "turned up" and stock, the new one is just as fast. They are both autos, but that really shouldn't make a difference. Your truck has a 175 pump and mine a 180 so they should be close. I think that the first gen making all that noise and your 95 being quiet could be the thing fooling you. JMHO
 
"I think that the first gen making all that noise and your 95 being quiet could be the thing fooling you. JMHO"



HUH?



While diesel engine noise is NOT an issue for most here, to claim that 1st generation Cummins are "noisier" than the 2nd generation stuff is WAY off base as far as *I* am concerned!:p



EVERY 1st generation Cummins *I* have so far encountered is WAY quieter than the later jobs - by a CONSIDERABLE margin!;) :p
 
I agree with ya Gary. Our rigs sound so much quieter than our 2nd generation buddies. I rode in one last night, what a noise machine:D I love noise. Their exhaust is bigger and their making a lot more boost than me.
 
I think he meant interior noise level. A 2nd gen is ALOT quiter on the inside than a first gen, even my cold 24V is quiter inside than a warmed up first gen :D

Clark
 
Bad340fish has got it. Come on guys- no one drives a truck from the outside. My old first gen was rediculously noisy, especially at high speeds. When I bought it, it was stock 160 hp at the flywheel. It was a dog. The 95 that Niki has comes stock with 175 hp. A plate will help a bunch and I am thinking a #6 would be the choice because it cuts back a little on the bottom and might help the clutch live a little longer. I think I will be going back to the #6 slid full forward. Niki try sliding your plate a little (or a lot :D ) forward. It is free and would put a smile on your face guaranteed. Just use a chisle and a hamer to unscrew the pesky screw with no head, or cut a slot in it with a die grinder and use a flat head screwdriver to remove it. Once you get the afc off, loosen the two flathead screws and slide that plate (that is your "plate" ) towards the front of the truck. You can also play with how much fuel your afc will let thourgh before you get any boost, thus adjusting smoke off the line. This is accomplished by sliding the afc housing forward (for more smoke) or back (for less smoke). You don't have to disconnect the line to the afc to do this, just lay it out of the way while moving the plate. If you want to see how much power your truck can make with the stock injectors, just put it back together without the plate. Take the plate and the screws all out and put the afc on all the way forward and go for a drive. Don't run this way for extended periods or you might damage the pump. I know a person who runs without a plate all the time (about 2 years now) and hasn't had a problem. That is pushing it though. Have fun.
 
15 lbs. boost seems a little weak, my 97 showed 18-19 WOT when delivered at 180 HP. Might check all your clamps from turbo to intake, make sure they're not leaking.
 
I agree with Dennis, 15psi seems a little weak. The wifes '95 160hp/auto made 18psi with the stock plate in the stock position,and 20psi with the stock plate full forward. With the TST 230hp plate it makes 26psi.

I'd look for a boost leak and adjust the valves.
 
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