2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 3/4 to 1 ton conversion

[painekiller]

i have a 99 3/4 ton 2 wd. diesel that i was thinking of converting to a 1 ton. i just picked up a 95 Dodge box truck 3500 gasser. will the rear axle and front spacers work on my truck? what all would i have to change? im going to use the truck as storage then i was thinking of pulling the parts off and selling the rest.

 

[HBarlow]

You can't "convert" your truck from 3/4 ton to one ton but you can put dual rear wheels under it. Your VIN and the decal in the door frame will still define your truck as a Ram 2500 and will establish the GVWR as that of a 2500 but it would carry more weight with dual rear wheels.

A gas engine dually will probably have a Dana 70 not the big Dana 80 under it so the rear differential will not be the same one as in a diesel dually.

I don't know what you mean by a "box truck. " Is it a cab and chassis with a cargo box mounted on the frame?

 

[painekiller]

You can't "convert" your truck from 3/4 ton to one ton but you can put dual rear wheels under it. Your VIN and the decal in the door frame will still define your truck as a Ram 2500 and will establish the GVWR as that of a 2500 but it would carry more weight with dual rear wheels.



A gas engine dually will probably have a Dana 70 not the big Dana 80 under it so the rear differential will not be the same one as in a diesel dually.



I don't know what you mean by a "box truck. " Is it a cab and chassis with a cargo box mounted on the frame?

i understand about the vin and door sticker what im looking to do is make the truck more stable when towing. it is a cab & chassis with a 12 or 14' box. it is titled as a 3500 but the dealer said it was actually a 2 ton. its a 2wd but its got the straight axle under the front so i cant put the front axle under my truck. is the front end simple as putting the spacers on? thanks for the info.

 

[HBarlow]

I'm sorry, I can't answer your question about swapping the C&C suspension to your 2500 pickup. I have not done it and don't know anyone who has.

Just guessing I will say no, it won't fit without at least some modification. The 3500 C&C probably uses a different frame with different dimensions and mount brackets.

Modification might be a matter of welding on spring mounts?

My 2008 C&C appears to use a 4x4 frame and front axle minus the ring and pinion, axles, and transfer case.

Another member was recently wanting to replace a rusted 4x4 frame. The discussion indicated a 4x2 frame was not interchangeable.

A C&C dually suspension will definitely improve your stability for hauling tall and heavy loads like a truck camper but won't provide a lot of improvement for towing unless you're hauling a very heavy gooseneck or fifthwheel trailer.

 

[HHhuntitall]

Rear axle should go. I did the same from a '95 C&C to a '97 D3500 and from an '01 CC disc brake to a '97 D3500. Measure first to make sure you don't have something I've never heard of... ... measure the spring width centers... The C&C should have a different frame and set of leaf springs, as well, but should be the same spacing. As for the front spacers, I THINK they'll bolt on... . I seem to recall a difference in the C&C/4wd versus the 2wd... . I think the 2wd were one piece..... as were later 4wd... ... but the spindles are the same for the 2wd, so worst case scenario, go buy you a pair of front hubs and rotors like these http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...=Search_C0062_1377581_1959&pt=C0062&ppt=C0009

Arrowcraft also sells dually adapters if you don't want to hastle with bearings... . but they're not cheap.



Last thing to check before starting the swap is to measure the axle yoke. Being a gasser, the CC probably has an automatic, and probably the smaller U-joint. But your 2wd has an auto, so it might have the smaller yoke and Ujoint, too... ... . And if this CC axle is an 80, there may be some difference in where the front pinion protudes, so check driveshaft length while you're under there, to make sure it won't bottom out.....



Measure twice, cut once... ... . errr, ah, unbolt/bolt once.....



Also be sure to replace the rubber hose from frame to rear axle while you're there. It's good insurance, IMO. Bleed all the lines, and if the fluid looks really dark, flush them with plenty of fluid while bleeding.