3" Brakes, Part II

[Case500D]

Ever since I have installed my 3" rear brakes in May of this year, I have had problems with the right, rear brake getting hot. I had three different places look at it and they all said it was just out of adjustment. I finally figured out that the emergency brake cable hanging up. I went to replace the cable yesterday and found that the right oil seal was leaking oil. At that point I was ready to sell the %$#@ 1st generation. Come to find out, the outer lip of the seal had tore out and it was running oil all over the wheel. The brake shoes linings were all cracked and falling apart. I was very impressed because NAPA stood behind their parts and replaced the seal and brake shoes at no charge. Of course I was given the wrong seal the first time, but fortunately they brought out the correct seal. I also got the emergency brake cable changed. I would recommend going to Chrysler for the cable if you have to replace one. So far, I have had no problem and the breaks feel much better. My point of this post is to let you guys know 3" brakes are still the way to go and to share my problems so maybe someone else can avoid a problem at my expense. I have also learned not to give up on these great trucks.

 

[Matt S]

I can understand your frustrations. I've had many and am currently having some. I will second the idea that 3" brakes are the way to go. I had a lot of problems when I replace my 2. 5" shoes to the point where they were gone in 55,000 miles. Now there is a huge difference in braking ablility. It is tough when the wife says 'Why don't you just buy a newer truck'? I just can't seem to do it.

 

[Case500D]

More Repairs

Matt,



I agree that the 1st gens can be very frustrating and I think the weakest point is the brake system. I just had to replace the hose that goes from the vaccuum pump to the vaccuum booster because it was collapsing on cold mornings and I had no brakes. I put a 90* elbow just above the barb going into the the vaccuum booster. Seemed to cure one of the spots for a kink. I also had to replace all of the bolts holding the front bumper on because they were all loose and falling out. I just ordered a Borgeson steering shaft and can't wait to get that put on to help cure the loose steering problems. Hopefully that cures most of the problems for now. I just keep telling myself that the 1st gen is the last of the real trucks and it is still cheaper to fix it than it is to buy a new one. However, all of my discouragement goes out the window when I can pull a large load of hay through town and set off car alarms with the straight pipe

 

[Dscholz]

Hey Jeremy or Matt, Do you have the part numbers from Napa. I'd like to upgrade my brakes in the future. Any advice or p/n would be appreciated.



Thanks,

Dan

 

[Case500D]

Part Numbers

Hey Dan,



I put a web page together to help other people out with the 3" brake conversion. Here is the URL

http://home.earthlink.net/~sweeten1/1992_trucks.htm



Hope this helps you. If you need any extra advice/help let me know as I am getting fairly proficient at changing Dodge rear brakes.



Jeremy

 

[JFitzgerald]

Jeremy,



I plan to do the 3" brake upgrade when when the current shoes wear out. Better brakes are always a good thing. While checking out your web site (nice), I noticed your link to Una-Goose. How do you like the hitch? What did it cost, if you don't mind? How was the install?



Thanks

 

[Case500D]

Una-Goose

JFitzgerald,



I really like the the Una-Goose hitch. It is really well built. I like the fact that the ball can come out while you are standing in the bed and there are no lever to flip or get rusty. The installation took about 6 hours, but that was because I didn't have all of the tools I needed. Properly equiped I could do it in 3. 5 to 4 hours. It installs with eight 1/2" grade 8 bolts. Both rear wheels have to come off to drill the holes in the frame. My only complaint about the instructions is that the distance given from the front of the bed to the 4" hole in the bed was about 1/2" too short. When I put the hitch in, it was rubbing the fuel tank. Thank goodness for a jig saw. The hole is now egg shaped. Watch out drilling the 4" hole, those hole saws can beat you like a redheaded stepchild. The hitch cost me about $425. To me the extra cost is worht the convenience of having a compact bolt-in-frame hitch. If you have any more questions let me know.

 

[JFitzgerald]

Thanks for the hitch info.



I used to live in Lafayette. Still have family there. I'm about an hour away now. Go Purdue!

 

[Case500D]

JFitzgerald,



Heck,if you are that close and decide to get a hitch, I will come over and help you put it in.



Jeremy

 

[Dscholz]

Jeremy, Thanks for the info. Your site and the truck look great. Keep on Rammin.



Dan

 

[DieselBuzz]

Jerermy,

I liked the threatening sky in your farm pics. Thanks for your rear brake info page. I run fire wood from NH to Mass and rung up 9700#s on the hiway scale in between (I love just pulling off checking my weight and getting back on the road, I wish everyone could have one. ) So... once I get the motor back in order the brakes are next. You gatta walk before you can stop again.



Art

 

[Matt S]

I had problems getting the lifetime pads from NAPA. Had them try to give me non-lifetime pads and pass them off as lifetime. I instead went to Autozone for the lifetime warranty at $17 instead of what NAPA wanted. Maybe your NAPA will be better than mine.

 

[Case500D]

I think I paid about $50 for the set of rear brake shoes. I didn't really shop around too much. I figure if I keep the truck for the next million miles, then I am going to get my money out of the brakes. Just make sure to keep your receipts to prove that you have the lifetime parts.



FYI I am going to make a web page, including lots of pictures, for installing a Borgeson steering shaft. It should get here today



Jeremy

 

[AlK]

About 4 years ago I had problem with the rear brake drums heating up. Finally determined that the Anchor Bolt on which the Parking Brake Lever pivots was all gummed and rusted up and would not release the shoes. I cleaned everything up and applied a small amount of antiseize to the Anchor Bolt and have had no more problems. Mind you we get a lot of rain out here on the Wet Coast. Friend had the same problem, but by the time he found out one of the drums was so badly scored that he had to replace it.

---

Al

 

[Case500D]

The anchor bolt, cable, and adjutor on the right side of my truck were not in the greatest of shape. The first time I was in there doing the brake swap, I freed up the adjustor, but didn't mess with the anchor bolt. This time I went through the anchor bolt and never siezed it. I also replaced the cable, adjustor, and the clip that keeps the adjustor from turning the wrong direction. AlK, thanks for helping me further solve me porblems.

 

[Shrimpy]

Hey Case and Al k, I went thru the same problem with mine. My problem was the parking brake cable guide. Mine kept coming loose and could not keep them in place. Also tensioners (adjusters) were froze up. After rebuild and regular adjustments brakes are great. Hope everyone gets their brake problems behind them!!!!

 

[JFitzgerald]

Originally posted by Case500D

JFitzgerald,



Heck,if you are that close and decide to get a hitch, I will come over and help you put it in.



Jeremy

Thanks for the offer of help! The hitch looks great and I love the features, but I'll probably end up having one made by my friend who is building me a gooseneck trailer. It would be hard for me to spend $400 on a hitch when I'm having a trailer built and trying to finish my barn project. Too much $$ going out at once!