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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 310k should I change to synthetic

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Jschafer said:
I have been reading a lot about the advantages of the synthetic oil and think I would like to go that rout, longer time between changes sounds good and better starting in this cold weather a plus also.



So my question do you think I should leave as is, (quaker 15-40 since new) with this many miles (310,689 miles approx) or make the switch?



One last thing where do I find the list of oil filters not to use.

I pulled down my earlier posts on this topic because they were being misunderstood.

In reality I don't know of any good reason that you can't switch to any oil that meets the "C" ratings list, and is the proper viscosity. If it isn't satisfactory try something else, or go back to the original. But it is critical that the oil meet the "C" ratings. Good luck.



PS. After cutting several oil filters open, I HIGHLY recommend the "Fleet Guard" "Stratapor" filter. It is so far ahead of the competors that there is no comparision. And the cost in many cases is less then the competition.
 
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Wow that is a lot of opinions :)

Sounds like a definite maybe :confused:



Well my truck was due for a oil change so for the time being I used the old QS I have to start working out of state in a couple of weeks and I don't need any issues.

This time of the year I wind up changing oil about every 6 weeks it gets old quick, and the synthetic I think would be nice in the winter as well.



For now I will do some more research on it, mostly about the cam shaft issue.

Thanks for all the responses

Joe
 
From SKargo
So you say it's ok for someone who has no idea what they are talking about to offer up advice?



No, I don't. I agree with you on this point. But, some people are using old info about synthetic oil, and they THINK they're right.



As for this particular truck in this instance, I do not recommend the switch to synthetic oil because Joe is not having any oil related problems, the truck has 310K+ miles on QS regular oil, and the truck is 11+ yrs old. I'm just looking at it from a $$ stand point. Why switch oil brands when QS got him the 310K miles? Why pay 2X or 3X the regular price of oil when he doesn't have to? I'm NOT trying to offend or insult you. If that is the case, I apologise to you. John
 
From Vaughn Makenzie:
Nothing like an oil debate to bring out the best in us, right?



Vaughn, I posted a thread about Mobil 1 and it became quite "lively" to say the least. I had 1 member who, I thought, was offending me. Turns out I was wrong, and I don't want to do that to any member. ;) My wife is offensive enough!! :-laf :-laf I'm just stating my opinion, and experiences in past repairs. I don't want to be the cause of this getting out of hand- you can!! :-laf :-laf ONLY KIDDING :-laf John ;)



PS Joe, do you have enough information now??? :-laf :-laf
 
J Shocik said:
From SKargo



No, I don't. I agree with you on this point. But, some people are using old info about synthetic oil, and they THINK they're right.



As for this particular truck in this instance, I do not recommend the switch to synthetic oil because Joe is not having any oil related problems, the truck has 310K+ miles on QS regular oil, and the truck is 11+ yrs old. I'm just looking at it from a $$ stand point. Why switch oil brands when QS got him the 310K miles? Why pay 2X or 3X the regular price of oil when he doesn't have to? I'm NOT trying to offend or insult you. If that is the case, I apologise to you. John

I agree with you 100% actually. :D
 
The cam thing is news to me.

I know they'll go flat due to improper break-in or installation (assembly lube). But because of synthetics? That reminds me of the "urban legend" that needle bearing won't roll, they will slide, because syns are too slippery.



HOGWASH!

Syns are progress, like computer controlled timing, EFI, radial tires and cell phones.

Welcome to the 21st century...
 
Since syn. oil costs more, and you also want a longer oil change interval, have you considered adding a by-pass oil filter? This is in addition to the full-fow fiter that is already there.



I run a Frantz on mine. Since you rack the miles up faster than I do, I'd probably go with a spin-on by-pass filter, myself. The TP needs to be changed more often. Not as often if stock, though. With mine being BOMBed, I change it twice as often as the oil and full-flow filter.



Don't know if the TDR member price is still available (previous group buy), but it is something to look into. I got mine through that.



Just a thought.
 
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i switched to mobil 1 synthetic 5w40 at 100,000 miles. the myth about synthetic causeing leaks or bad for seals or anything like that is just a myth! mobil 1 5w40 is superior than any other diesel oil because you have a great cold startup oil and advanced protection for your summer months. you can switch to synthetic at any mileage. if you have a particular question about your application you can go on www.mobil1.com and email them. a tech specialist will get back to you in 24 hours. :D
 
In the oil heating industry it is common knowledge NOT to use teflon with fuel oil because

the oil will start to disslove it.
 
mglaser said:
In the oil heating industry it is common knowledge NOT to use teflon with fuel oil because

the oil will start to disslove it.

Interesting, since my Reznor used MOTOR OIL burner cleaning and repair instructions tell me DO NOT USE TEFLON SEALING MATERIAL of any kind to seal the fittings. So that would agree with what you said, only referring to a motor oil burner. I wonder what kind of composite they are using in the Main bearing seals. Thanks for that information.
 
Odd though it may seem, most of the new ATF's are either a full synthetic or a blend. IE the ATF+3 and +4: the Mercon V and some of the import rated fluids.

Also Petro Canada has a full line of Hydrocracked base stock lubricants. Check their web site it is quite informative. It was www.petrocanada.com
 
Well I will try again to say some NEW information, less then 1 year old. I pulled down the other posts I had written because of the attitude they seemed to impart or attract, I am not sure which.



The hogwash responce is very often my own response, however, I use it less now then I used to, because I have been wrong to many times.



The reality is that not all oils are equal, not even synthetics. The EPA regulations have forced the petroleum engineers to recduce the amount of zinc, and some other wear reducing additives in "S" rated oils, to meet emissions standards.



This reduction has had an effect on the high load wear areas of the engines. American made flat tappet engines are particularly affected. IE the cam and lifters, and in some cases even the bearings. This is not a big problem for roller lifter engines and most gas sniffin engines are rollers now, and since 1995. Some of the overhead cam engines aren't, but most of them are imports or designes like the imports, that have a very large surface for the cam and lifters as compared to an old design american engines, so it is not a big problem for them either.



The above is true for mineral and synthetic "S" rated oils recommended for new cars still in warranty. That is why we see the oils like Max Life. They are more like the old oils were. And are not recomended untill after warranty. Most of this is on the website www.bobistheoilguy.com . The problems with "S" synthetics and cam wear is that they never had much if any zinc in them. I have not seen anything about why, and I understand that that has been changing, at least in some brands.



CRANE CAMS, COMP CAMS, AND SALEE CHEVROLET all say the same thing. They will not warranty a camshaft that is run in on any synthetic oil. They recommend that if you switch to synthetic later, that you run GM EOS continually. (Some of them require EOS as a prelube and in the first oil) I am not the one saying this, I am only quoting (yes, with some editing because of space and memory, mine that is). This is a result of research done after about 4 cam failures in two engines with Amzoil. All in less then 4000 miles. All in the last 3 years, one last year. They had beafed up valve train, but not enough to cause that rate of failure. (One was stock Corvette aluminum heads. But running with a flat tappet cam and lifters.



Mobil 1 says in their technical material that they add a small amout of mineral oil back to the Moble1 to provide some seal lubrication. They did not do this a first and seal failure became a problem (in the 70's).

There is a lot more to say, both pro and con. but it is late, so I am going to wind this down.

I will add this though. If you look at the Cummins B series cam lobes and the size of the lifters, add in the max RPM and the valve spring pressure, the load on the cam is much lower then the adverage gas sniffer, so the synthetics would not be as great a problem even if they didn't have some of the additives. I also believe that it will be found that the "C" rated oils are a different ball game from the "S" rated ones. I don't have any data on that yet, but I will look for some.



Also the fact that so many of you are running syntheyics of different brands and are not having problems says a LOT. You have made this old dieahrd take a different look at the situation.



But please let us not label something as wrong just because it don't make sense or don't fit what we have thought. Check it out, and pass it on, we might learn something new.



By the way, the FRANTZ filter is a very good bypass filter. I still have two of them, one of which I bought in the middle 60's. I didn't know if they had survived the decades since then, so I was glad to hear that they did.
 
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