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3500 leveling

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The last dually I had,2013, the previous owner put a leveling kit on the front coils, I want to say 2" block/spacer. Looked real good. I don't know if removing the spacer block in the rear is possible these days.
 
I won't do it chicken ****,either coils or leave it,I am so happy with the truck ,I don't wanna change it really.just think it might look a little better with 2 inches on the front and 1 size up with rubber.
 
I won't do it chicken ****,either coils or leave it,I am so happy with the truck ,I don't wanna change it really.just think it might look a little better with 2 inches on the front and 1 size up with rubber.

Check out Kore, Carli, and Thuren.
 
I won't do it chicken ****,either coils or leave it,I am so happy with the truck ,I don't wanna change it really.just think it might look a little better with 2 inches on the front and 1 size up with rubber.

:DThat's what she said
 
Please do not use spacers with the new angled coil buckets.

I noticed in your sig that you have a Thuren suspension, I am considering their coils to level my truck. Can you elaborate more as to why you say no to the spacers? I've heard from a few people that they are a good way to go because they allow you to keep the front end pretty much stock.

On my 02, I had custom coils made by CSS. I'm still leaning to the coils.....especially the Thurens.

TIA
 
I noticed in your sig that you have a Thuren suspension, I am considering their coils to level my truck. Can you elaborate more as to why you say no to the spacers? I've heard from a few people that they are a good way to go because they allow you to keep the front end pretty much stock.

On my 02, I had custom coils made by CSS. I'm still leaning to the coils.....especially the Thurens.

TIA

On the 94-13 Trucks , excluding 13 3500s, the coils buckets on the axle and frame were flat and a spacer could bolt into the shock tower so there was no concern of anything moving or popping out of place. On the radius arm trucks, 2013 3500 and 2014 2500's and up, the coil buckets on the frame and axle are angled making a spacer dangerous and to top that off there is no good way for the spacer to bolt in leading to a potential situation where the spacer and coil can pop out of place causing the coil to shoot out of the truck and the frame landing on the bump stop while driving down the road. Also with spacers there should be a drop bump stop so that the coil is not over compressed.
 
What would be the proper way to level 4th gen 1ton trucks

KORE sells this kit for the 2013 and later 3500 4x4's and 2014 and later 2500 4x4's. Rides much better and levels the truck so you can run 35's.

2016-Dodge-Ram-Front-Suspension-Kit_1024x1024.jpg


2016-Dodge-Ram-Front-Suspension-Kit_1024x1024.jpg
 
You can run 35's stock, leveling a truck but keeping factory bump stop travel does not truly increase tire clearance.
 
Since OE rubber bump stops compress a bit but don't move or have "travel," I'm assuming that when you say "factory bump stop travel" you mean "bump stops compressed onto the axle housing strike plates" or "preserving the OE bump stop location" (not relocating the contact point with a bracket or longer custom bump stop).

If so, you are 100%, spot on correct.

If you use a stock wheel you probably won't have a problem with a 12.5" wide 35. If you use wide wheels and/or wide 35's like a 13.50, you may run into clearance issues - especially on the back corner of the fender well, right behind the front tire, when turning. The idea behind wheels that stick wide aftermarket tires further out is to keep them from rubbing the radius arm/control arms at full-lock steering. The diameter might be fine at "full bump" meaning the top of the tire may not hit the plastic fender liner with the tires pointed straight ahead. But when you turn the truck, there may be interference. There are so many variations of tires and wheels out there (and many combinations of the two) that it's hard to say what will work or won't without a lot of research.

Exactly as you state, with a leveling kit, absolute tire clearance is still determined by the bump stop, but by effectively moving the axle down, you will have more tire clearance initially - before the wheel starts moving up into the wheel well. We call this "dynamic tire clearance."

With enough dynamic tire clearance, you can confidently run bigger rubber even though your absolute tire clearance hasn't changed - which is always determined by bump stop location - kind of like absolute ground clearance is determined by tire diameter.

I learned about this in a funny way. I was prepping the KORE race truck before the Baja 1000, we were moving up from 37x12.50 General tires to 39x13.50 BFG tires, so i was told to test for interference. I had the springs off the shocks and with the suspension fully-compressed and the steering at full-lock the tires would smash right into the stainless exhaust headers. I told Kent (the owner) about this and he just laughed at me and asked, "think of the speed and force required to bottom the truck, then imagine that speed and force equation happening instantly with the steering at full lock."

I was like, "yeah - we would have bigger problems than smashed headers - like a corner ripped off or an end over end rollover!" hahahah!

Anyway, it's the same with a stock truck. That's the best I can explain dynamic tire clearance.

You can see where the headers are relative to the tire. The tires never hit them.

KORE Race Truck 2.jpg


KORE race truck.jpg


KORE Race Truck 2.jpg
 
Wow Tim those pic's are closely guarded are you allowed to post them...LOL...Is that a Arrow V-10 resting peacfully between the frame assembly.Looks to me like it is hitting in several places along the frame assembly.Hats off to the Baja 1000,despite commincations failure,rear axle seal (slight).You guys did freakin amazing well saw the race on Maverick TV.I used Kore's leveling system on my 2007 RAM 2500 RegCab ,5.9L diesel 4wd.We had a cabover,and a pull trailer behind.The truck ran just sweet,beautiful handling,with crazy cross winds going up 5,and up to Palm Desert.Did give a inch,rock steady.I currently am using a competitors spacer with MOPAR all over it,meaning Superlift.Not real thrilled with it,it has seem to despite the shock extension,I still have had to toe adjust again,and the steering wheel is still not centerd up,has about a 1 inch to the left.Been twice to CDJR dealers not the same one different states.I am about to give up,shut up and just drive,gee I thought aligments were no brainers on this 4 gen.I guess I will keep looking for a tech who knows whats up.It seem when looking down into the wheel well area the spring is kinda bowed,and that the axle is not directly underneath rather leaning forward.The front axle u-joint flange is also pararrel with the ground rather it is pointing upwards now towards the transfer gear box.Slight feathering going on as well so rotation must be every 6000 for sure till I find a Dodge Ram aligment shop who knows what they are doing.Should have brought your spring assemblys but 2 1/2 lift,seem kinda high me towing a 5th wheel weighting in around 14,000.I thought I might be to nose high,so I settled for a (I know the look you are giving me) a spacer.I was given a discount on any Mopar part at the store...
 
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