Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 370 injectors or not

[WaynesWorld]

I want to upgrade my injectors on my 181 12v. My options are 370/dv's & 215/DD2. Driveability everyday to & from work in all kinds of weather must be considered.



WAYNES WORLD

 

[Cooker]

If I was picking between those I would choose the DD2's. The 370's are smokier around town and are hazy at idle, especially when cold. The DD2's will yield less HP than the 370's but will be a nicer all around injector IMHO.



If you want a more street friendly 370 the DD3's would be the best choice, although you did not list them as an option. They are within a few HP of eachother but the DD3's should be a little less hazy and smoky around town.

 

[DSiemens]

I've got 370 in my 95. They can smoke and there is a slight haze to 'em. If haze/smoke is objectionable, then go with a different injector.



Dan

 

[JoshPeters]

I've got 370's. Bang for the buck... . Definatly the 370's. I can roll smoke pretty good if I want to, but Driving lightly... . very very little smoke. I'm a bang for the buck kind of guy. I think the 370's have more potential as well. I only wanted to buy one set of injectors.



Josh

 

[RHARVEY]

Call PDR and ask them about the Jammer Injectors. The are not the F1 injectors but I do believe they are a type of EDM injectors. I have first hand knowledge of how the EDM injectors perform. You get more power,less smoke and low EGTs than its counter part injector. Truck idles smooth and exhaust is clean...



Rick

 

[ndurbin]

370s would be my pick.



Nathan

 

[Forrest Nearing]

I love 370's... you can't beat the performance for the dollar, and the haze makes the truck feel like a TRUCK

 

[WaynesWorld]

I know I can depend on TDR members for info!!

Thanks guys!!!!

One last thing, Do I need to change the delivery valves too?

What do I need to change both DV's & Injectors?



WAYNES WORLD

 

[ndurbin]

I doubt you'll have to change DVs.



By "what do I need to change them?" do you mean tools and parts?



Nathan

 

[WaynesWorld]

ndurbin,

I was referring to tools. How long does it take?

WAYNES WORLD

 

[ndurbin]

I took my time and had a couple breaks, so about 3-4 hours. It could be done faster but I had plenty of time to do it.



As far as tools nothing really special except some sort of injector puller. The best way I've seen to pull them is using a slide hammer. It had a fancy snap-on (or some other tool company) socket and swivel that screwed onto the slide hammer. The one I have has a holder that slips over the injector then a piece of all-thread with a nut welded on the end that goes onto the injector. Then the holder has a cap with a nut on the top side of it ya screw down to pop the injector loose.



Other tools you'll need:

3/4" or 19mm(i think) wrench for the lines

10mm for the return line bolts

15/16 deep socket (i think) for the injector hold down nuts

10mm socket for the intake hat bolts

3/8 or 7/16 (dont remember which, might be metric also) for the injection line hold down clamps on the intake manifold

torque wrench for torqing the injection hold down nuts back down (44ft/lbs. is the torque setting)

small straight o-ring pick for putting the dust seals down into the injector hold down nuts

small flathead screwdriver

large flathead screwdriver

pliers

magnet

and a flashlight



Dont remember now if it's the thin washers or the medium washers ya use. My injectors came with a kit that had 3 different washer thicknesses (sp?) and all the other stuff needed to install them.



Put some anit-seize on the injectors so if you ever have to pull them again they'll come out ALOT easier (been there done that got the t-shirt to porve it).



Thats about all I remember at the moment if I think of anything else I'll add it to the list.



Nathan

 

[JGK]

If you're going to replace delivery valves, you're going to need a delivery valve holder socket. They are not cheap or found at your local Sears or Harbor Freight store. The holders are to be retorqed in 2 steps - 29 lbs, then 84 lbs.



On the other hand, the injectors are easy and don't take any special tools other than the puller. The best puller I've used is a short piece of 1" electrical conduit or PVC slipped over the injector after the hold-down nut is removed. This short piece of tubing should be short enough to expose a few rows of threads on the top of the injector. Then just screw down an appropriate nut on the injector and it will pop the injector out as the nut seats down against the tube. Its been said a lug nut works.



Also, as I remember, use the thinnest washers that come with the injectors.



-Jay

 

[Cooker]

You can buy the DV socket for Pier for around $30 or from Snap-On for $36 http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/pro_...&group_ID=2964&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

 

[BPonci]

They don't offer jammers for us 12 valvers.

 

[TurboTweaker]

I like the 300 marine injectors we used on the farm truck at home, with the #8 plate and the DZ turbo it really moves. the 300 injectors dont smoke that bad and they move alot of fuel, ask Josh peters about norms truck with the 300's. just MHO



The Fat Kid

Andy

 

[bmoeller]

370s. Oo. I'm enjoying mine.

 

[Jerred]

370's here, with 191 DV's, a #10 plate and 16deg timing. a little haze at idle, not bad enough to notice if you're not looking for it. They make alot of heat at WOT with a stock turbo, even with a 14cm exh housing. i really have to watch the temps on climbs and under loads. but I agree that they're the best bang for your buck. anything better will cost you twice (or more) as much. A bigger turbo helps with the heat, i have a USB on the way, dyno next month. I'll let you all know how that goes.



remember, it's a mix-and-match game. you never really know what YOUR truck will do until you try it. unfortunately, this hobby gets expensive the longer you are doing it. to try and hit your goals without dropping a mint, make sure you heed the advice from those with trucks most like yours (same upgrades). what works for some, may cause you to scratch your head, guilty.

 

[JGK]

... remember, it's a mix-and-match game. you never really know what YOUR truck will do until you try it. unfortunately, this hobby gets expensive the longer you are doing it. to try and hit your goals without dropping a mint, make sure you heed the advice from those with trucks most like yours (same upgrades). what works for some, may cause you to scratch your head, guilty.

Perfect.



-Jay

 

[Jerred]

Perfect.



-Jay

Thanks!



BTW, the best injector puller is a piece of pipe cut to length, a big washer and a nut (screwed onto the threads of the injector). costs you jack squat, if you have some scrap laying around. just give er' a couple turns and they come right out. Takes 30min for the whole job, plus a little more to remove and re-install the injector tubes and return lines. the engine sounds cooler with bigger injectors too, nice side benefit.

 

[JoshPeters]

I've used a pair of vice grips, lightly clamped on the injector and a lady finger type pry bar worked well for me. You put the vice grips on and with the lady finger, you have 2 ways you can pry... . the 90* bend at the end works great for the first 5 injectors... the last one I just used a normal pry bar.



Josh