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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 370 Injectors

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I am considering installing 370 injectors and 3K springs in my truck. Is there anything else I should consider? The pump has been worked on by the P. O. but if not sure if the plate was slid or a TST plate installed. Will there be any drivability/ timing issues to consider or is it just a bolt up and go operation? Any and all details would be much appreciated.
 
Considering the same move, 3k spirg kit and 370 injectors. I do haul heavey and would like some advice. The goal is to have additional power while kepping the everyday drivability.
 
Doing a search on 370's will bring up plenty of reading. My next big mod will likely be 370's also. But with a plate and 370's from what I've read, you will roast your clutch for sure. So save up and buy a good clutch at the same time. Especially if you tow heavy. From what I've also seen, there will be some adjustments required as many experience a "lope" at idle. I've heard this on '98rammer's truck, I thought it sounded sooo cool. :D Make sure you have guages as well, you will also experience new found EGT problems. Again this is also heresay.



I can say that installing a GSK will help with pulling quite a bit. Installing it "MAY" require a governer lever adjustment.
 
Yes, you MAY have a little idle issue with this set up, though I didn't. A click or two one way or the other on the retainer nuts holding the springs in often solves it. Also, adjusting the set screw on the back of the AFC housing (covered with a tamper-proof cap and wire, as I remember) may help. Turn it in 1/4 to 1/2 turn.



You will also run high temps at the upper rev range. Consider a bigger turbo (PDR HX40 or equiv. ) or other air improvements.



You will kill your clutch with the 370's, particulary with other plates. But you'll like it! IMHO, 370's are the best bang for the injector buck when Piers has them on sale.



-Jay
 
I didn't like the smoke issue with the 370's and #10 plate. I installed the 370's, # 10 plate, 3K governor springs, and a 14 housing on the turbo. The pump was adj. to 233cc"s of fuel. With that I dyno'ed at 405 HP. Since then I have removed the injectors and went back stock. Less smoke and my fiver likes it better. Still plenty of power. .



. . Preston. .
 
Got Smoke?



I would buy the 370's from Piers because there are about 10 different part #'s for the nozzles and Piers knows which one is the best. We went through this a few years ago. 3 of us bought 370's from different vendors and we all had different injector part #'s. A TDR member pulled his out because they didn't work right.
 
Matched sets are a little nicer. They all have the same pop-off pressure. If you are going to install the 370s, put the small seal in. You will have to torque it down a little more to keep it from leaking. The thinner washer will help with getting the added fuel into the piston bowl. Another nice thing to do is bump up the timing (15. 5 - 16 degrees). Since you are adding for fuel, you need to have it injected a little earlier. This will help with EGTs and gas milage. Like a gas motor, it will advance as you get higher into the rpms. A diesel motor doesn't really have an advance that increases (which is needed for going into the higher rpms).
 
370s should work great with no idle problems as you have the 215HP pump. Your clutch should hold up ok also. The 3K GSK shouldnt give you much power just fuel longer for good HP at higher RPM. My stock clutch with 140,000 on it held up fine till I added the #11 plate. The 370s by themselves will prolly add around 40-50HP so will not be a real radical change but when you get around to adding a larger plate then things will start to happen. A #11 TST plate is a great all around plate for your engine unless you like to drag race or other such stuff. See my sig for my results with a similiar set up.
 
Thanks for the great responses! A couple more questions. Do the old injectors usually need the slide hammer type puller to remove them? I`ve seen/heard that the injector bore brush should used on the threads in the head. Doen`t this put alot of trash on top of the piston and potentially into the injector?
 
dieselpilot

Where are you located in relation to Waco? If you could use some help and arnt too far away I am willing. A puller can be made from a lug nut that will screw on to the injector. After getting the right nut then get a 6" bolt for it and a socket that will slide on the bolt and you have a puller. The threads in the head have been fine on the ones I have done, just blow out the crude before removing the injectors.
 
Another option on the puller: Once you find the nut as Deezul1 mentions, get a piece of 1" electrical conduit (as I remember) and cut it to the proper length (about an inch or so) so that once the injector hold-down nut is removed, you can slide this short piece of conduit over the injector, leaving a few threads of the injector protuding. Now put on the nut. The conduit rests on the the head. As you screw down the nut against the conduit, it pulls the injector out.



-Jay
 
Now using a piece of conduit for the sleeve runs over the whole injector and a nut to pull it from the top threads is a good Idea, but what if the injector decided to spin in the head. You think that the raised nipple that guides the injector into the bore would start to dig into the head if it where stuborn to get out?
 
When I removed my injectors, the detent and ball didn't guide the injector into the bore, they held it in place. Once the ball is recessed into the injector, it will come out. That is the best deal I've heard of. Good job.



. . Preston. .
 
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