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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) 38,600 Miles 2002 6 Speed Clutch Failure

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) I want a trip computer!

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Greetings...

I RECENTLY posted the same title in the "911 FORUM. " A slave cylinder was found to be leaking and was replaced. However, this did not fix my clutch concerns. I need to pull the clutch. And, replacement will most likely be the solution. On a "whim of a prayer" I suppose it could be a pilot bearing or other less serious concern. Not likely. . :rolleyes:



I'd base this new clutch on the "wishful dreams" of having all of the following

goodies: BANKS 4 INCH EXHAUST BRAKE, EDGE EASY, DD 1's, or (possibly but unlikely), DD 2's. Yes, I occasional pull a 28 ft trailer.



A southbend clutch seems to be the choice of TDR members. I want a clutch with long lasting/dependable characteristics, and comfortable usage too. I've also heard good things about a LUK PRO GOLD, which are a bit less $$$. Any thoughts ???



So,..... INSERT OPINIONS HERE I'd expect the real HP would be below 350, if I selected the DD 1's. Should I get the CON-0 (or) CON-OFE ?? I'm truly interested in your opinions. A dueling banjo competition is not what I'm pursuing. This in not new subject matter, but I'd appreciate your thoughts. A private post to me is fine too. Any of you TDR members with similar applications, please comment. Thanks... ... :) :) :) Jim
 
I just replaced my clutch with a southbend DD, a little over kill for now, but I think I will grow into it.



After I got the trans out, and tore apart the old clutch, it appears to me that the flywheel was machined incoretly from the factory, as there were three small burn marks on the flywheel surface, all spaced evenly apart from each other. The pressure plate and clutch disk looked just like new.



Maybe the same type of thing is happening with your clutch, and you could get by withj just machining the flywheel. If not, then southbend is the way to go, great clutch and good service.



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It just me, or that look like a bad flywheel?
 
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The LUK clutch is a good unit that holds power well but it probably wears faster than the South Bend. I have the con ofe & it is very smooth.
 
If there exists ANY possibility of bumping up the horsepower, go with the Con-OFE now. As far as injectors, look at some of the EDM (DD Jammers, F1Diesel EDM, etc). I tow 29' 12000lb (max) toybox with my setup (see sig), just turn the Comp box down or off when necessary. Trying not to ramble, but you might consider the Edge Comp or DDUFM for the adjustability and ability to turn it off leaving only the boost fooler working.
 
I think the Formula ! mach 1. 5's are optimal for good milage on a highway truck that towes. I've run with both the Edge EZ & the CaTCHER ECM. The quick throttle responce with the CaTCHER makes it an easy choice for me as they both cost about the same.
 
Clutch Update

Today I had the Southbend CON-0 installed by Dyno-Mite Diesel Performance which is located in Monroe, WA. (360) 794--7974. I was very satisfied with their expertise, personal care of my vehicle, and quality of the work completed. I was allowed to witness the entire clutch removal through replacement processes. WOW :) :) :)



The OEM clutch failure was the result of a broken weld on the large

'circular ring' within the pressure plate. I believe this ring serves as a pivot point for the fingers of the pressure plate (?). Upon removal of the pressure plate & clutch, you could hear this ring "freefloating" and was not attached within the pressure plate. I now understand why the clutch would not disengage totally when the clutch pedal was depressed.



Has anyone ever experienced this type of pressure plate failure ? :confused:



I'm anxious to drive it a bit more and really measure the improvements.



Thanks for all the suggestions and private posts. :) :) :) Jim
 
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