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3G Brite Box + Fog Light Control testers wanted!

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Joel is this new box going to work with the Canadian DRl's? The last box on the second gens fell a little short. If you need a tester for that send me a PM.

What about a feature or a box that kills the drls with the flick of a switch for those of us that like to sneak around?
 
In response to hasselbach's post that you could accomplish fogs + highs + lows with $1. 00 worth of diodes . . .



The modification described was performed on a Chevy truck whose headlight system is NOTHING like the computerized system in the 3G Ram. It is impossible to do the mod with either $1. 00 worth of diodes . . or $1,000. 00 worth of diodes in the 3G Ram. Please be aware of the fact that 3G Rams have NO headlight relays (if you don't believe me, check your service manual!) and that is where such diodes were installed on the Chevy. Saying that "because it worked on a Chevy, then it will work on a Ram" is equivalent to saying "you can add more power to a 3G Ram with a torque plate because it worked on a 97 Ram".



If this headlight system were that simple, you would find many members who would post a diagram for you. To give you an idea on the complexity of this system, Mark Chapple (TST products) IMMEDIATELY requested these Brite Boxes for his personal 3G Rams. Even he, of Cummins engineering background, who has cracked the secret in making more power for the common rail engine, wanted our boxes. In his personal trucks he was not able to find a way to keep the fogs on, let alone the low beams, when the high beams were on. Please be aware of the fact that Mark is a good friend, and I am not disparaging him in any way, shape or form.



I thought the readership would like to know more about the headlight system (and the challenges we faced in designing a Brite Box for the application) in this truck, so please read the text from a brief we wrote:



Quote:

A brief on the Brite Box application for the third generation (3G) Dodge Ram pickup . . . .



We have heard occasional complaints that the Brite Box application for the truck described above requires two units (one for each side of the vehicle), while the first (1G) and second (2G) trucks required only one unit that worked both the vehicle’s headlights. Is this an attempt on our part to double our sales, or is there a reason for this? Obviously there is a reason and it is that this vehicle has a self-diagnosing, computerized lighting system that is very unique. As a result, it takes two special for this application Brite Boxes to preserve the integrity of the stock lighting system. We would like to stress that like any other maker of aftermarket products, we have to design our products to match the vehicle, and not the other way around. A brief description of how this system works:



Computerized control: When you turn on the headlight switch of this vehicle, it sends a coded signal to a computer, which then sends voltage to the headlight bulbs. In contrast, the 1G and 2G headlight switches sent power or ground directly to the headlights. Additionally, this system is self diagnosing in that it monitors the “health” of the headlight filaments, parking lights and brake lights. If one of these light filaments goes out, the computer informs the driver of the fault by illuminating a “Lamp Out” light in the instrument cluster.



Side to side isolation: The headlight circuits of this vehicle are electrically isolated from left to right. There are two reasons for doing this: 1) Isolation provides a margin of safety in the event of a short circuit, blown fuse, or other problem in a headlight. Should such a fault occur, isolation allows the other headlight to remain unaffected. Most European cars have had headlight isolation since the 60’s. 2) Isolation was required to allow the computer to look at each filament for self diagnostics. Without isolation, BOTH high beam filaments or BOTH low beam filaments would have to go out before the computer could recognize a fault condition in those circuits and illuminate the “Lamp Out” light.



First Brite Box install in 3G body style: When the 3G truck was introduced in 2002 as a 1500 model, one of our dealers attempted to install a standard model Brite Box into a vehicle. He immediately found out about the side to side isolation as the Brite Box only worked the headlight it was installed on. More alarming was the fact that even though the low beams stayed on with high beams, when the headlights were switched from high beams to low beams the headlights TURNED COMPLETELY OFF for 1/2 to 3/4 of a second! The computer was doing a global reset in response to seeing both filaments on at the same time. Having the headlights shut off was not acceptable in anyone’s book. Obviously this reset issue would have to be solved to make a Brite Box for this vehicle.



After a few months of research we were able to understand how this system functioned, and were then able to produce a Brite Box that worked perfectly in the vehicle. It is important to note that along with solving the computer reset issue, these Brite Boxes are also 100% compatible with the self diagnosing capabilities of the computer. Unfortunately, there was nothing we could do to eliminate the need for two units without compromising the original design of the headlight system.



It is interesting to note that the power enhancement industry has encountered similar issues with their products as these trucks have evolved. In 1G and 2G trucks, more power could be added by simply turning a screw on the fuel pump (pre 1994 1G - free!) or purchasing a torque plate and boost fitting (1994 - 1998 2G) for about $200. 00. With the introduction of the 2G (1998 1/2 - 2002) 24 valve motor, more power required a electronic box (many types available) that started at about $400. 00. In the 3G trucks, the simplest “pressure” type electronic boxes sell for between four and five hundred dollars, and the more sophisticated “timing and duration” boxes cost in excess of $700. 00! At the date this brief was written, one (not to be named) manufacturer of power boxes has repeatedly delayed introduction of their timing and duration box for various technical reasons. Obviously, the advances in truck design has also raised the sophistication of aftermarket products that have to be compatible with these modern designs.



It is our opinion that despite the fact the Brite Box application for this truck requires two computer compatible boxes, the installation of Brite Box is one of the most cost effective accessories you can install on this truck. Unlike most other accessories, Brite Box is a SAFETY item that you quite possibly will use every time you drive your truck at night. One cannot argue that better lighting provides safer driving conditions at night. How many other accessories are potential lifesavers?



We would also like to inform you that in October 2004, we will be introducing a Brite Box kit for this vehicle that will keep the factory installed fog lights on when the high beams are turned on. If you have any questions, please call Baker Auto Accessories at 970. 879. 4200.



Unquote:



Hopefully this will shed some "light" on the situation. Of couse, in your own trucks, MAYBE you can possibly make this work with some "shadetree" modification that compromises the self diagnosing feature of the computer. If you choose, you can tie the right and left side electricals together and bypass the safety features engineered into the truck. Either way, I guarantee you the computer will NOT be happy. But you CAN do it if you want because it is, YOUR truck, YOUR money, YOUR choice.



The design of this product is the result of this simple fact: We WILL NOT compromise either your safety or whatever engineering was built into these trucks.



Respectfully submitted,



Joel Toy

Baker Auto Accessories



P. S. I would also like to point out that our products are made in the USA by AMERICAN workers. I hear a lot of (negative) remarks on how manufacurers are moving production overseas and how it affects jobs here. But then, when a manufacturer CHOOSES to keeps jobs here (and pays $100% of health insurance costs for workers) like we do, then the products are overpriced! Can't have your cake and eat it too! Gotta make a choice.
 
P. S. I would also like to point out that our products are made in the USA by AMERICAN workers. I hear a lot of (negative) remarks on how manufacurers are moving production overseas and how it affects jobs here. But then, when a manufacturer CHOOSES to keeps jobs here (and pays $100% of health insurance costs for workers) like we do, then the products are overpriced! Can't have your cake and eat it too! Gotta make a choice.



I will be happy to pay more to keep the jobs here in this country.
 
I was lucky enough to be able to test (still testing) one of these boxes for Joel and it works just like I wanted it to Oo. I do a bit of traveling and man'o man is it nice at night on those dark roads . . I have had no lamp out warnings and no hassles... just a lot of light on the road and where in needs to be. It is a good solid product. Thanks again Joel :D:D:D This is a must have BOMB for the head lights!!
 
how is the bulb life compromised when having both filiments lit up at the same time? that bulb is going to get real hot with both on at the same time. will the bulb stand up to that, and will the lamp housing stand up to the heat generated?



i am interested in having the fogs and high beams on at the same time, so this thing interests me...



does this box make the standard low beam lights better? that is what i drive with 90% of the time, and they arn't too great imho. .
 
mberry said:
P. S. I would also like to point out that our products are made in the USA by AMERICAN workers. I hear a lot of (negative) remarks on how manufacurers are moving production overseas and how it affects jobs here. But then, when a manufacturer CHOOSES to keeps jobs here (and pays $100% of health insurance costs for workers) like we do, then the products are overpriced! Can't have your cake and eat it too! Gotta make a choice.



I will be happy to pay more to keep the jobs here in this country.



I just wanted to point out that the diode trick that I did was on my Chevy and not the dodge. I haven't figured out the dodge set up yet, but it appears per Joel Toy that the on board computer may not work with diodes or other relays that would in fact tell the computer that something is amiss.



Sorry if I posted information that was of no use on this subject.
 
Just my $. 02- Joel has helped me out twice now on adapting his brigebox for my sport headlight conversions... and I'm eager to try the new britebox on the 2004. 5. Joel... that was a hint... ;)

Please keep us informed,

Greg
 
nickleinonen said:
how is the bulb life compromised when having both filiments lit up at the same time? that bulb is going to get real hot with both on at the same time. will the bulb stand up to that, and will the lamp housing stand up to the heat generated?



i am interested in having the fogs and high beams on at the same time, so this thing interests me...



does this box make the standard low beam lights better? that is what i drive with 90% of the time, and they arn't too great imho. .



Like Nick, I mainly want to just use the fogs with the high beams. Not sure I would want both low and high beams on at the same time due to possible heat damage to the lenses and reduced bulb life. I also need to know if my DRL's are an issue. Any comments?



Dave
 
Brite Box and headlamp damage

Dave I talked to Joel about this very issue and he has never had a complaint about this issue if you are running the standard lamp assembly that is rated at 55 watts. He said he thought that might be a concern if you were using a higher wattage bulb in your stock headlight system and then added a Brite Box. He recommend to me that I install the Sylvania Silver Star bulbs as they are a much better bulb but still retain the 55 watt power rating. I'm still waiting for my beta test Deluxe Brite Box to arrive. Then I will install the Silver Stars with the Brite Box and I'll post my results. If your concerned I'd recommend giving Joel a call. He's easy to talk to and I felt reassured that I wasn't making a mistake that would require new headlamp assemblies. Ken Irwn
 
Joel, what is the cost for the test unit. I travel from PA to NC,TN,VA Mostly at night, I have a friend who is a mechanic for Dodge Dealership and actually asked him before if there was a way to do this his answer was no. So I know he'd be interested also doing some testing.

Thank you,

Ken
 
Received and installed mine this evening. Will post my thoughts after I speak with Joel in the morning so I don't step on any toes ;) Looks good so far.



-Scott
 
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