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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 3K GSK harder to install than TST Kit?

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Is the 3K GSK much harder to install than the TST torque plate?

I love my #6 plate, but just when things are getting interesting, the governors cutting off :(
 
It's a little bit harder. If you pull out your plate, the nut is underneath it a couple inches. A good magnet, patience, and a steady hand is really all you need.



If you use the plug (big round plug with a wire over it on left side of pump) the nut is closer. Also less (nearly none) risk of loosing something inside. Oil drips out and you can't see as well, though.
 
Like Hammer said, it's a bit harder. More nerve racking is the best way I can sum it up. The first set of springs is the worse, after you get past that the second set isn't so bad. Take a deep breath and hold your hand steady and like he said, have a good magnet, it will be fine, it's definitly worth it. I was governing out before the transmission was ready to shift, which made for lots of pounding on the steering wheel shouting, "SHIFT SHIFT!!" :mad: Not now though, all is right with the world.



dan
 
Before you start you'll be nervous then after you get it done you say, Did I miss something, I even called Piers to make sure I didn't miss anything. A few hints are. 1. Use a 22mm socket with a ratchet on the alternator rolling the motor backwards to get the springs in view 2. Get a 2 lb pull magnet and one of the little telescopic ones too 3. Leave the idle spring alone!(big fat one that barely fits in the hole) With the 3k's you will have a seat and 2 springs per post, 4k's have and extra little spring in the middle of those two. I have read that you can put the little stock inter spring with the 3k set and gain a few hundred RPM's but that is just technique and not written any were.



Jim
 
Of the five sets of gov springs I've installed, all through the top, I have dropped the top retainer twice. It falls down into the oil and is gone. :{ A little (OK a lot) patience and a wire with a hook on the end will finally retrieve it. That's about as bad as it can get. Just do it! Best mod going.
 
Do you guys take the air intake plenum off before going into the pump? Is there a gasket on top of the pump that is liable to break? Should one have a spare handy? What size screws are in the top cover - what size to replace break-off screw with?



Thanks. I have a Bosch plate in mine from Diesel Injection of Pittsburgh, but I don't know how far foward it is slid. I think the 3KGSK is what I need next as she does fall on her face at times.



Blake
 
Blakers:



I did just opposite of what the others said. I did mine from the side and will not go through the top. I had no trouble and the parts will not get inside. All you have to do there is get the governor springs in alignment with the hole where the screw cover is. I had no trouble seeing with a light and didn't need a mirror. I have a swivel head flashlight that worked great.



I will agree those or the most telling parts so for. Even the #10 plate. Those RPM's are just necessary to go fast.



And Piers? Though I've never met him, me being in Georgia, I still feel I know um. Just the best. Louise too.



. . Preston. .
 
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Tom I'm with you on that one, I like going through the side also. Talk about dropping stuff, I dropped a tiny special washer in the pump the other day, that's were the small extend able magnet comes from as I had it out in 2 Min or so.



Ya that hole PDR bunch is all good, I know some folks that could take some lessons from them.



Jim
 
Going through the side is the easiest and safest way to change out the springs ... . unscrew the timing pin plug on the side of the pump to drain the oil out of the governor housing ... you can see what's going on in there better that way ... .
 
I did mine thru the side. Plulled the tire/wheel and popped out the plastic inner fender and it's a straight shot to the gov spring plug. No mirrors, you can see everything you're doing.
 
Originally posted by JKing

I did mine thru the side. Plulled the tire/wheel and popped out the plastic inner fender and it's a straight shot to the gov spring plug. No mirrors, you can see everything you're doing.



JKing, does the plastic inner fender just "pop back in" ?:confused:
 
I think there are about 9 of the press in clips that hold it in. Just be careful when you pull them out and they won't break. Pep Boys has replacements (cheap) if some should break.
 
Originally posted by JKing

I think there are about 9 of the press in clips that hold it in. Just be careful when you pull them out and they won't break. Pep Boys has replacements (cheap) if some should break.



Thanks, I've been putting off bringing my idle back up to where it should be because of how hard it would be to get at from the top. Then I get :mad: every time I take off on a hill or with a load! Now I can fix that dang thing tomorrow!Oo.
 
I have the 3K GSK in mine, however it was installed by someone else. Without going into a lot of detail, I think the springs are not at the same tension. How would be the best way to check this. I assume back them off and re-install at the same number of clicks. If this is correct, what should I expect to happen when the nut is backed off all the way? How much tension etc. Thanks for any advice or pointers.
 
no-strokin;

I was told , true or flase; that Cummins sets then at flush post to start but that most end up at 2 -3 clicks. My 3K 's are at 1. In third gear the truck wanted to hop and that got it out.



. . Preston. .
 
idle adjust with GSK???

I thought you adjusted idle speed with the throttle linkage, what does the GSK kit do to your idle speed???
 
Gifford

I'm no expert on this, but in the past there have been discussions on this. To my knowledge, there are two ways to adjust timing, 1. is to use the idle speed screw on the back of the pump, or 2. turning the govenor spring nuts. I have done it myself once, and a click or two makes a very noticible difference. I would suggest giving Piers a call if a more detailed explaination is needed, or perhaps someone else will chime in that can explain it better.
 
I'm not an expert, but if the springs are turned in too tight, the idle will go up, and if they are not tight enough, the idle will be low. And only one or two clicks will make a noticeable difference. Took me a couple of times to get it right, but well worth the mod.



Jim
 
I'm lost here, when people say they can't see when doing the GSK through the side cause something is in the way, what is in the way??? I saw just fine. I think the plate and GSK are about equal in difficulty, both are a piece of cake IMHO.
 
Why do most of you think the GSK is harder to install than a TST kit??? Its was the easiest thing I've installed. (though I never tried to go through the top? cant fig out what for??) There are no break off screws, nothing in the way & nada to heat to get apart?? In my opinion it is the best upgrade you can buy, though it makes your EGT's scream (my egt gauge moves as fast as the boost gauge - aka nothing to stop the fuel :eek: ). Oo.
 
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