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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 3k GSK -- Wow

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bighammer

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Just put them in this afternoon. Wow, what a change. I can now see why some say it should be one of the first BOMBs. Really wakes up an old truck.
 
Kinda like adding another gear range. Oo.



BTW, I went thru the top. The lack of a tamper-resistant screw from plate install, allowed me to open the AFC without removal of anything else. :D
 
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... and you all thought I was crazy for starting a worldwide campaign to make every P7100 equipped engine get a set of Piers' governor springs... . :rolleyes: :)



Matt
 
hell all. what do the 3k springs do? How much $$$? I do not have any gauges so I assume I would need to do that first, but cost info would help. thanks
 
kwedberg: Piers' 3kGSK delays the point at which the governor inside the injection pump cuts back fuel based on the upper RPM limit. This allows you to run the engine to 3k RPM... . which was next to impossible to do in OEM form.



The truck will drive with a very different "feel"... the engine will no longer seem like it is struggling to maintain freeway speeds as the governor isn't cutting back on the fuel so soon.

At 75mph I used to have my foot quite a bit into the pedal... . now I barely even touch it to maintain the same road speed.



It's the best $125 (+shipping) you'll ever spend on your truck. Gauges are recommended to keep an eye on things... . no matter what you do to the truck.



Piers' # is 604-888-4159... . he'd be happy to fill you in if you have any further questions.



Matt
 
Thanks for the info Holeshot. . of course i have another question. :) How long does the install take, and how difficult?



That brings up one other question. I just did a highway run of approx 600 miles, running 70 - 80 mph most of the way. I got about 19 mpg. I have a 4x4 ex cab with auto, 96. Tach was running about 2250 at 80 mph. What are 5 speeds running? Are they much lower in the rpm range with the higher gear?



Thanks again for the info.
 
Kwedburg, the final drive ratio is pretty similar. Taller tires can bring down the RPMs.



Stetson, I went thru the top. Didn't have to mess with that ugly plug at all;) I took out the 4 bolts holding the AFC on, disconnected the boost line on the back of it so I could get it out of the way, and removed my #5 plate. Down deep under there are the springs.



After that, I felt I could remove an apendix orally. :D
 
First post. Long time lurker :D



Got the 3k GSK sitting on the bench.



What's the consensus on going from the top or from the big side hex plug like the distructions that come with the kit say? Side looks like a PITA access-wise.



Any gotchas to watch for?



I've already been into the top for a TST plate, break off screw has been in and out a couple times .



Checking out Fritz' page now.



TIA.



Rick

SE MA

97 2500 4x4
 
I've been into mine both ways, be prepared to loose about a half cup of oil going through the side. Mine reved further after installation, but I lost some boost & EGT's. I found out I needed to adjust the govenor lever after I replaced the springs. After I did that, My truck will hit 35lbs boost, & 1500 deg. in just a few seconds with a #8 plate moved forward 1/16th" & 215's
 
The 4K set is that much better again. Unfortunately you need heavier valve springs too. Believe me, they are worth the trouble. Not because you need to rev higher but it really works better in the 3K range too.



Hard to explain but I have run both and I think the 4Ks are way better.
 
<blockquote><em>Rick asked:

What's the consensus on going from the top or from the big side hex plug like the distructions that come with the kit say? Side looks like a PITA access-wise.



Any gotchas to watch for?</em></blockquote>

Rick;

I've done 3 governor spring sets. I did the first two (2) from the side as we didn't open the aneroid (AFC housing). The last time, the aneroid was already removed to do the plate. I looked down from the top and still went in from the side.



You have to remove a lot of springs and washers and seat pieces. The side port was designed for spring access.



Dennis already mentioned the oil bath. I used the bottom 2" from a milk jug to catch my drips when doing things under the hood.



diesel on

-John
 
Only additional comment I have is to check the governor lever adjustment, once you have these things installed, and before you button the entire thing back up. -- I did not see this in Fritz's instructions. Not sure if its in Piers either. But will same some hassle.



Seems like the top two problem posts after installing these are idle questions and loss of power questions. The idle answers can be found in the Fritz instructions. The loss of power answers can be found here:



http://www.piersdiesel.com/LeverAdj.htm
 
I did mine through the side,all I had to do was loosen

the locknut on the linkage shaft and the linkage came off

easy then it was wide open to see and work. Kit really

wakes up the bottom end too!
 
I'm wrestling with the idea of buying these springs, but my truck pulls pretty hard up to 3K stock. I'm sure it's starting to defuel around 2750 RPM, but it has no problem banging 3K. I ran it on the chassis dyno at the Cummins Power Systems event last weekend in Glen Burnie, MD and it pulled 208HP in 4th! Again, this 97 215 HP truck is TOTALLY stock! Sure hate to mess up something that runs so good. Feedback?
 
SeaBee - simple. Get the 4k set of springs. :D



JohnE, that was the kind of post I was looking for. Thanks for the first hand info. Seems like just as much clutter either end, slightly less back breaking from the top. May as well do the side, bigger hole to go thru.



Was hoping to do it today but spent the afternoon putting on my Walker (from PN's found here) 4" muffler and tailpipe. Oh, and a short piece of 4" stainless where the small furry house animal used to be. :cool:



Feels like it freed up some HP. Broke the rear loose (locked) at 50 MPH (wet road).



Rick
 
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