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3rd Gen Valve Adjustment Link???

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anyone tow with artic air twins?????????

What transmission in 03?

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I've been trying to find a link for a "how to" write up on adjusting valves on a 3rd gen. All I can find is 2nd gen write-ups. I know there isn't much if anything different, but I'd like to know before I get myself into trouble.

Anybody got one?
 
You might do a search under 'JStieger' 's name as he had a pictorial that would walk you through the process. It was probably a year ago. Or. . you could PM me with your e-mail address and I can send the document directly to you.
 
STANDARD PROCEDURE - VALVE LASH

ADJUSTMENT AND VERIFICATION

NOTE: To obtain accurate readings, valve lash measurements

AND adjustments should only be performed

when the engine coolant temperature is less

than 60° C (140° F).

The 24–valve overhead system is a “low-maintenance”

design. Routine adjustments are no longer

necessary, however, measurement should still take

place when trouble-shooting performance problems,

or upon completion of a repair that includes removal

and installation of the valve train components or

injectors.

(1) Disconnect battery negative cables.

(2) Remove cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -

ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD

COVER(S) - REMOVAL).

(3) Using the crankshaft barring tool #7471–B,

rotate crankshaft to align damper TDC mark to

12:00 o’clock position.

(a) If both number one cylinder rocker levers are

loose, continue to next step.

(b) If both number one clylinder rocker levers

are not loose, rotate crankshaft 360 degrees.

(4) With the engine in this position, valve lash can

be measured at the following rocker arms: INTAKE

1–2–4 / EXHAUST 1–3–5. Measure the valve lash by

inserting a feeler gauge between the rocker arm

socket and crosshead (Fig. 32). Refer to VALVE

LASH LIMIT CHART for the correct specifications. If

the measurement falls within the limits, adjustment/

resetting is not necessary. If measurement

finds the lash outside of the limits, adjustment/resetting

is required.

VALVE LASH LIMIT CHART

INTAKE EXHAUST

0. 152 mm ( 0. 006 in. )

MIN.

0. 381 mm (0. 015 in. )

MIN.

0. 381 mm (0. 015 in. )

MAX.

0. 762 mm (0. 030 in. )

MAX.

note:

If measured valve lash falls within these

specifications, no adjustment/reset is necessary.

Engine operation within these ranges has no adverse

affect on performance, emissions, fuel economy or

level of engine noise.

(5) If adjustment/resetting is required, loosen the

lock nut on rocker arms and turn the adjusting screw

until the desired lash is obtained:

² INTAKE 0. 254 mm (0. 010 in. )

² EXHAUST 0. 508 mm (0. 020 in. ) Tighten the

lock nut to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs. ) and re-check the valve

lash.

(6) Using the crankshaft barring tool, rotate the

crankshaft one revolution (360°) to align the

damper TDC mark to the 12 o’clock position.

(7) With the engine in this position, valve lash can

be measured at the remaining rocker arms: INTAKE

3–5–6 / EXHAUST 2–4–6. Use the same method as

above for determining whether adjustment is necessary,

and adjust those that are found to be outside of

the limits.

(8) Install the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -

ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD

COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).

(9) Connect the battery negative cables.
 
STANDARD PROCEDURE - VALVE LASH

(1) Disconnect battery negative cables.
(2) Remove cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - REMOVAL).
(3) Using the crankshaft barring tool #7471–B,
rotate crankshaft to align damper TDC mark to
12:00 o’clock position.
(a) If both number one cylinder rocker levers are
loose, continue to next step.
(b) If both number one clylinder rocker levers
are not loose, rotate crankshaft 360 degrees.
(4) With the engine in this position, valve lash can
be measured at the following rocker arms: INTAKE
1–2–4 / EXHAUST 1–3–5. Measure the valve lash by
inserting a feeler gauge between the rocker arm
socket and crosshead (Fig. 32). Refer to VALVE
LASH LIMIT CHART for the correct specifications. If
the measurement falls within the limits, adjustment/
resetting is not necessary. If measurement
finds the lash outside of the limits, adjustment/resetting
is required.
VALVE LASH LIMIT CHART
INTAKE EXHAUST
0. 152 mm ( 0. 006 in. )
MIN.
0. 381 mm (0. 015 in. )
MIN.
0. 381 mm (0. 015 in. )
MAX.
0. 762 mm (0. 030 in. )
MAX.
note:
If measured valve lash falls within these
specifications, no adjustment/reset is necessary.
Engine operation within these ranges has no adverse
affect on performance, emissions, fuel economy or
level of engine noise.
(5) If adjustment/resetting is required, loosen the
lock nut on rocker arms and turn the adjusting screw
until the desired lash is obtained:
² INTAKE 0. 254 mm (0. 010 in. )
² EXHAUST 0. 508 mm (0. 020 in. ) Tighten the
lock nut to 24 Nm (18 ft. lbs. ) and re-check the valve
lash.
(6) Using the crankshaft barring tool, rotate the
crankshaft one revolution (360°) to align the
damper TDC mark to the 12 o’clock position.
(7) With the engine in this position, valve lash can
be measured at the remaining rocker arms: INTAKE
3–5–6 / EXHAUST 2–4–6. Use the same method as
above for determining whether adjustment is necessary,
and adjust those that are found to be outside of
the limits.
(8) Install the cylinder head cover (Refer to 9 -
ENGINE/CYLINDER HEAD/CYLINDER HEAD
COVER(S) - INSTALLATION).
(9) Connect the battery negative cables.

Thanks, but there are a few things not in there for us first timers. For instance, the breather assembly on top, do I just pop the tubes off and ignore the box? Also, where the heck is TDC?

I set my valves last night not knowing those answers. Pretty simple really. Yes, just pop the breather tubes off and ignore the box. The little TDC mark on the balancer/damper or whatever it's called doesn't line up with anything that I could find with a mirror, so I got it as close to 12 o'clock as I could and called it good.

There were 3 or 4 that I didn't bother changing, othewise the rest all got tightened a little. I didn't bother checking to see if they were "within spec". If the feeler was loose, I tightend them.

Truck ran fine today. I don't think I screwed anything up.

BTW, that's the same write up I followed, except I didn't monkey with the ground cables. I've never understood the reasoning behind that when you're not working on anything electrical.
 
BTW, that's the same write up I followed, except I didn't monkey with the ground cables. I've never understood the reasoning behind that when you're not working on anything electrical.

I think that's to keep another tech from starting the truck while the work is being done. Try reading a Harley manual. Hard to find the meat for the litany of cautions and warnings, etc.

I did my valves back in the winter and noticed the engine was significantly quieter and MPGs went up as well, contrary to what the service manual says.
 
Did dad's '03 tonight. Some of them were really tight, 8 or less on the intake and 18 or less exhaust. A couple were a 1000th or two loose. Now they should all be closer to where they should be. Still sounds the same as before.

The truck sat for 4-5 hours after a long run and it was still warm. The temp gauge didn't move, but I doubt it was much under the 140*F mark. What happens if the valves are set with the engine at a warmer-than-optimal temp? Valves end up too tight or too loose?
 
I need to do that one of these days. It sounds like they have the same type of adjustment nut as a Honda 4 cylinder.



How do you turn the motor over to get to TDC? Do you need the special tool they talk about?
 
I need to do that one of these days. It sounds like they have the same type of adjustment nut as a Honda 4 cylinder.

How do you turn the motor over to get to TDC? Do you need the special tool they talk about?
I put a socket on a breaker bar and used that on the damper/balancer bolts. Worked easy enough.
 
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