4.10s or more power?

[JeffWhite]

Looking for some advice - let me first say that I'm impossible to please,

just ask my wife! I just consider it a symtom of my job - tool and diemaker

anyhow, my truck when loaded in 6th is a dog, and downshifting to 5th

raises the buzz factor to an uncomfortable level. I like to run 65mph loaded

and get maybe 70-75mph run at hills. I don't have a lot of weight, but do

seem to have a lot of air drag. It feels like it runs into a wall about 70.

My question - change to 4. 10 gears or just overpower the hill with mild

injectors and an EZ? I have stock 235/85/16's and don't want shorter tires.

I don't do much unloaded highway running anymore, just 6-8 miles a day

at 60-65. Also truck seems geared to high when in 1st or rev- feels like it will

run 20mph in rev at idle when I'm trying to reverse into tight spot w/mirrors

and not slip clutch. Any thoughts appreciated. see my sig. for load I carry.

 

[KBalzuweit]

Just put an EZ on it. You will be amazed at the difference. Hills I would be down to 4th and running 50mph to climb I now run in 5th with no problem(only have a 5 speed). Just got my EZ from ETR Diesel in TN for $400 shipped to me. Karl

 

[DHayden]

More... . Power... . :-laf A box would fix that right up for you, alot cheaper than switching gears I might add.

 

[CLAYTON]

MORE POWER!!! You'll be glad you did

 

[NVR FNSH]

I have 4. 10s (and 315s to cut the gearing) and pay for it every time I fill up... .



Start with more power and if that doesn't solve your problem THEN go to 4. 10s when you've exhausted the more power options.....



Brian

 

[Chrisw]

I personally would do more power first but the 4. 10 will help with your slow speed problem and may help your clutch last a little longer. To bad it's not a 4x4 or you could try low range when backing.



I would suggest the mad ecm over the ez. The HO engine with a good set of injectors will put a smile on your face. If you tow all the time and don't want to put much money in to it I am not sure what to tell you. Either a Mad ecm or a set of injector will make a big difference when pulling. Both together and your trailer will feel like it come unhooked behind your truck.





from http://www.f1diesel.com/injectors24.html



Mach 1 65 HP $550. 00

A recently developed custom nozzle that has just been completed. No other modifications like turbocharger upgrades or exhaust systems required.

A great injector for the towing crowd!

 

[JeffWhite]

Thank you all

Well it looks like a unanimous decision for more power first.

Ya'll really have to twist my arm to like that! Now just getting it

by the CFO. What do you think, the old saving fuel in the long run

argument, or safety? Have to be able to get out of the way of those

big rigs, you know!

 

[KBalzuweit]

Heck just order it, have it delivered at work :-laf :-laf . When she finds out then worry about it .

 

[SRadke]

4. 10's or more power?

Is this a trick question The answer is obvious Oo.



-Scott

 

[JeffWhite]

no trick intended, should have went more like "which first" I guess!

 

[SRadke]

No prob, just add a little fuel to it and you'll pull the hills at 65 with your 13k lbs. If you don't like the "buzz factor" lower gears are not for you.



-Scott

 

[JeffWhite]

No prob, just add a little fuel to it and you'll pull the hills at 65 with your 13k lbs. If you don't like the "buzz factor" lower gears are not for you.



-Scott

Guess you are right on the gears. Just thought (if I'm figuring this

right), overall ratio of 2. 99 (4. 10 in OD) might be a happier compromise

than the 2. 58 (3. 54 in OD) or 3. 54 in 5th I've got now. I used to change

gears in my old musclecars like some people change oil (a lot!) tried everything from 2. 56 to 4. 10 at one time or another. Finally settled on

a 3. 42. But I agree, power first. Also don't have a pile of rearends for the

Dodge like I did with the cars.

 

[klenger]

In support of an opposing viewpoint, changing gears does not have the impact of higher EGT's, slipping clutch, etc. If you are familiar with changing out gear sets, then your actual costs would be a lot less than for someone who would have to pay the labor to have it done.



I had 4. 10's on my 01. 5 HO and it worked OK for me. I rarely drove on the freeway unloaded, so the higher RPM's were not a problem for me. I got 18 - 20 MPG empty.

 

[JeffWhite]

although I have done it before on cars, don't have the tools to really do it

right, mainly to spread housing to get preload on bearings. Most of my many

changes on cars were like this - 4 bolts each side releases axle bearing retainer

and backing plate. slide axles out, hang backing plated from bungees undo drive

shaft and 4 bolts from control arms, swap whole rearend and back together!

No "C" clips on an Oldsmobile. no bleeding brakes like this. With a little practice

(and plenty of other complete rear ends) it is easy as a 9" Ferd, maybe easier-

no 90 weight on you if you keep it level.

 

[CUMMINZ]

4.10s

For 2004. 5-2005 CTDs, the best pulling gear and milage gear is a 4. 10. I am getting 14-15 pulling and lower 20s on highway. 3. 73s won't do that.

 

[kah68]

Being 2wd I would do the Gear swap first ,then add power as needed. The 4:10's will give you much better reversing and launching ablility and less stress on the drive train. Your cruising speed and the fact you tow most of the time makes you a good candidate for the 4:10's. Just my opinion.

 

[NIsaacs]

Add more power! With your 6-spd, you won't like the 4. 10's unless off the line acceleration is important. In the old days of gas motors and even today 4. 10's, was/is popular. However with the Cummins and 6-spd, it is not necessary. With a mild fueling module and RV275 injectors, the 3. 55's will pull your load up a 6-percent hill in overdrive. In fact, if you hammer on it you might have to hit the exhaust brake half way up the hill!!!





"NICK"

 

[Mtngoat]

Just curious..

Are 3. 73 gears available and if they are, are they not a good option?

Robin

 

[CUMMINZ]

1700 mile trip last week with TST

OK here it is.



I have been making mods to my 2004. 5 CTD since last April and have almost bragged about my milage with the auto and 4. 10 gears.



We loaded 5er to the gills last Friday (grossin' 20k) here in central NC and traveled I-40 to Nashville and then I-24 into Kentucky to Union County, ILL. We were in truck for 14 hours yesterday and drove into home this morning. Never checked milage a single time till we walked in the door. Total miles driven was 1697. 1 and total diesel used was 138. 9 . . That comes to 12. 2 mpg. You can look at my sig and see the equipment I have.



There was not a single grade that we ran that we could not run that the converter stayed locked. We averaged speed from 65-75 mph. Never over that. We pushed the CTD HARD... I mean real HARD. We ran the TST on 4/4. My overhead closely stayed on 12. 5 to 13.



Hosses of Hosses this CTD IS!



CUMMINZ

2004. 5 CTD, Flip-Over/RV2, 32' KeyStone Sprinter, Tornado, TST, AMSOIL, 4x4, 4. 10LS, 315x70Rx17 BFG, 8" Factory cast aluminum, 2" front lift/w RC shocks, Hellwig, Timbrens, Line-X, Banks monster exhaust & Hi-RAM intake

My truck at http://www.GoRowan.com/2004ram

 

[DavidTD]

Most don't talk highly of 4. 10 gears. I own one of each, a 3500 4x4 5 spd 24v with 4. 10's and a 2500 4x4 auto 12v with 3. 54's.



For towing I wouldn't change from my 4. 10 gears, especially if I was towing heavy. The last time I scaled (and I need to do it again) with the dyno, I scaled 22,800 and change. The 4. 10's pull this load with EZ and 275's very very well, I don't have EGT issues, and I can pull just about any hill I come to in 5th gear.



Loaded with the dyno, I run 65mph max most of the time and it yeilds me mid 12's for mpg. With nearly 200k on the clock, I will never complain about this truck. This truck likes to work. It gets mad when it doesn't work.