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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) #4 fuel plate

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tst does not list a #4 fuel plate. how much horsepower and torque will i gain. right now i have a stock auto but i am going to convert it to a 5sp.
 
would this be a good plate to run with 300 injectors. i heard the 370's run hot when towing. will these run hot or are they ok when towing.
 
Pulling a steep grade, sustained high speed, or getting a load going is the only time you'll have EGT problems.



Your right foot is the ultimate temp control.



Your truck will burn the same amount of fuel at a given speed and x RPM with any injector in it.



I'm running a #4 and 370's on a stock turbo:eek: (albeit a 160 pump for now:rolleyes: ).

Yes, I CAN bury the temp gauge at will, but don't have to. The truck moves pretty good at 1/2 throttle. ;)

And when I want to stomp a mustang or something, I'll let it get warm for a short run. Cools right back off.



But there is a 215 and bigger spool around the corner. ;)



300's don't give that much improvement. I heard that from a fellow with extensive dyno testing. Get 370's and be done with it.
 
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Originally posted by WadePatton



Your truck will burn the same amount of fuel at a given speed and x RPM with any injector in it.



Get 370's and be done with it.



agreed and agreed!!!



maintaining a specific speed under a specific set of conditions will yield a specific EGT no matter what injector... some might be plus or minus a few depending on spray pattern, but the bottom line is just watch the gauge and use your foot to control the temps...



and get the 370's! :D



Forrest
 
Once upon a time long ago I had a #4 stock position with 191's and 370's and a 35/16 that made 380/830 as best I can remember, you could drive it fine but WOT would net like 1700 ish degrees, the #4(which I still have) is a transmission/clutch killer as it fuels real hard on the bottom, this is why I like the 10 better, nice smooth power band.



Jim
 
I'll second Jim's coment on the killer #4. I finished off my stock TC lock-up clutch with a #4 all the way BACK.



The problem is not only the fuel profile. A #4 is designed for governor springs which gives one the engine rpm to drive through a stock converter fluid coupling. The rpm difference between the input and output eats the clutch material when you (attempt) to lock-up.

The nice part is getting a new TC to take the #4 and governor springs.



I can pass 1500° on the pyro with stock injectors and delivery valves. Plate is not even ½ forward which is about 0. 020 forward from stock. 305 rwhp and 737 torque.
 
thank you for the replies. i will get the #4 and the 370's after i get a 5sp and a awsome clutch in my truck. im putting the 5sp in about 1-2 weeks and the good clutch. again thank you.
 
#4 Plate

If you want to drive a truck with a #4 plate, I have a '98 with a DTT trans and a #4 plate in it. With timing advanced and 3GSK springs



I'm just up the road from you in Michigan. Look for a PM.



Greg L the Noise Nazi



GreatLakesDieselWorks
 
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