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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 4 inch exhaust

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) NV4500 Noises

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Educate me on Turbos

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97 12 valver with 120k on engine. Seems a little sluggish when pulling my 12k 5th wheel. I ordered a 4 inch exhaust and KN filter systme. Does anyone think this will make a difference. Plan on a new transmission eventually/

Thanks

Bob
 
I have 113,000 on mine. I pull an 8K travel trailer. Pulled it 1200 miles last month, my first trip with my new exhaust. I installed a 4" turbo back Magnaflow with 2 straight mufflers. (I should have done this years ago) My 5. 9 is still stock no other changes yet.



I noticed a 100-150 degree drop in EGT's. Also when you stop the EGT's go back to normal idle range real quick. If you don't have gauges I recomend you look into that. I felt that as long as I was stock I would be ok. I was surprised to see how far you could push a stock set-up after I installed the gauges.



Reduced EGT's = more power. I have have the option of pushing it a little harder and still stay in a safe zone.



As for the intake I am going to get a AFE stage 1. http://www.afefilters.com/5410071.asp The guys at Geno's say this will decrease my EGT's another 75-100 degrees.



Ron
 
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Need a fuel plate. #11, 14cm exhaust housing, and egt gauge.

I had the full Banks powerpack. 265hp/700ft lb tq Truck pulled really well. Just put the #10 plate 330hp/750 tq truck really flys now.

Have not pulled my 9k boat yet.
 
All that's been said here is true. One thing you should know is that it's not a simple drop it in and go. I had a #4 plate installed along with 370 injectors, new 62/14cm turbo and 4" exhaust. Yea, IT CAME ALIVE!!! Problem is that it also woke up the egts and the smoke level. Now comes the dial it in part. The fuel pump plate (fpp) can be moved a good 3/8" forward or back. Forward equals more fuel, and more smoke and more egts. Back is less. Then there is a star wheel adjustment that effects all of this too. It's a balancing act as to how much smoke (less mpg), ets (melts pistons), power vs economy, less egts (longer engine life) and less power. One more equation is the skinny peddle. You gotta keep your foot out of it to keep this undesirables under control. That vs needed power is what you do while driving it. The other is under the hood time. Try and retry until you have the balance you want. Some guys say they can make fpp changes in a matter of minutes. I can't disagree with them as I've only done mine once and the engine was cold. I can see the star wheel adjustment being a couple minute change, but not moving the fpp. This is only my opinion of course. I can see someone doing it fast and loosing bolts (screws) down inside the engine bay and things change drasticlly then. I think, to get the balance right you'll need some time and patients.

But then I'm only a novice at this diesel game, I've spent my whole life in gassers.
 
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Some guys say they can make fpp changes in a matter of minutes. I can't disagree with them as I've only done mine once and the engine was cold. I can see the star wheel adjustment being a couple minute change, but not moving the fpp. This is only my opinion of course. I can see someone doing it fast and loosing bolts (screws) down inside the engine bay and things change drasticlly then.



I can do it faster than most of the electronic guys can download a new tune!! I only run 2 bolts in the AFC cover though, to make it faster. I always keep a 1/4" drive rachet, 8mm socket and extension in the truck, with a large flat screwdriver.

Take off 2 bolts, push shut off solenoid out of the way, lift AFC off, take 2 bolts from plate out and reverse!! Its only a 10 min job.



--Jeff
 
Thanks for the information Jeff. I don't think I can do it that fast but with you information maybe it'll be faster that my first time.
 
Jeff, may I ask you about the AFC. Does that mean Air/Fuel Control? The fpp can be moved forward and back. So can the cover. Is there a correlation between these two adjustables
 
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