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4 inch exhaust

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Hello, I am searching for a 4 inch exhaust system. I found one on bigexhaust.com that you could buy each section seperatly you know down pipe, muffler, tail pipe, etc. I was wondering are the down pipes any different than the originals in some of the systems some of you have installed. If not this route would be even cheaper since I don't want the muffler either.



Plus It finally got warm enough to wash the pick-up and take a better picture. Tell me what you think of the new flatbed and rims. I know I need some underbody toolboxes and mud flaps.

Computer says the files to big I guess you'll have to go to the readers rigs.
 
In my Opinion

Build you'r own. Or have some bud help ya out who has a welder, torch, etc. No disrespect to the vendors, however,,,,,,there is no way on this green Earth that an exhaust system is worth 500+ dollars, no way. Believe me. Once you assemble one you'r self, you will be a believer. It's only pipe!



An opinionated Greenleaf
 
Welcome to the TDR



Oh yea rub it in. A nice shiney new Alum flat bed. Just what I want on my truck. :{



4" will be tight to get around you transfer case.
 
Thanks for the quick reply guys. Last summer I took the muffler off and and everything behind it and put on a 45 and with an aproximatly 3 foot extenstion and cut another 45 at the end of it with the chop saw. It exits in front of the rear wheel. The rest of the truck is completly stock and pump adjustments, turbo housing, injectors maybe, pyro. and boost first of course, are on the wish list. But maybe I got the wrong impression, I thought I needed an even more free flowing exhaust with the above modifications to keep the exhaust temps down more so since I have no intercooler. If my current set up will do the job great. I was just wondering about the stock set up around the transfer case.



Hey Greenleaf I read a while back you've got some old john deeres what do you have. My old Man started me out on a 730 gas flat top fenders, 3-point and a wide front, pretty nice I finished alot of cattle with that thing grinding feed. I propably shouldn't tell you but now my pride and joy is a red one 806 Diesel.
 
There is only ONE CHOICE HERE. And that is RIP ROOK!!!!



Rip's 4" is the best around, and he is one heck of a nice guy, and has some of the best prices around.



www.sourceautomotive.biz



Everyone out here swears by him.
 
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BTW: Nice truck! I have a flatbed too, you should check out my rig.



There is no power to gain from the exhaust, the advantage is higher airflow... resulting in quicker turbo spool-up and lower exhaust temps.
 
I think when Mr. Donnelly talks we all should listen. Steiger, great looking wheels. Where did ya get them, $? Good looking front half of the truck, not a flatbed fan here. Bill
 
I Just checked with that site again. Down Pipe which I'm not sure I need yet is 94. 61 Ext. pipes 64. 15 Muff. Repl. pipe 40. 40 and tail pipe 65. 00. Grand total 264. 16 or 169. 55 w/o down pipe the Complete package is 365 and I think that might include a tip which I can live with out. Keep in mind that is no clamps and no hangers but my new millermatic needs some jobs to pay for itself so that shouldn't be to much extra. So what do you think? I don't think that is to bad espeically w/o the down pipe. When you guys say it is going to be tight do you mean there is no way in he** it's going to fit or it's possible and it will take a while to get it in there.
 
Originally posted by bgilbert

I think when Mr. Donnelly talks we all should listen.



I don't think anybody is debating him...



I went with a 5" system on my truck... would I be alright with a 4" system? sure, but the entire system from the turbo to the tailpipe was $330, and when the twins go on, I won't have to buy another system...



sure, a 3" system may be good for 350hp, but who says, "ok, I've got enough power now... " :confused:
 
I wasn't debating him... I said the same thing he did, no power to be gained. I just added that the only real benefit is improved airflow.



A lot of people have actually found that 4" flows better than 5". A certain velocity is needed to keep the flow consistent and not "bunch up" around corners and swirl. The 4" has a higher velocity due to the smaller diameter, and the gasses flow more smoothly than with the bigger pipe.



Don't take this for gospel, it's just what I've gathered from what other people have said... . and physics class.
 
Originally posted by Forrest Nearing

Sure, a 3" system may be good for 350hp, but who says, "ok, I've got enough power now... " :confused:



Not to mention, the tone change is kinda nice for is "muffler free" guys. ;)



I plan on upgrading from my dual 3" (mine dumps in front of both back tires) to a dual 4" for the added flow and better tone. I plan on exceeding 350... someday.
 
Originally posted by CB_Parker



A lot of people have actually found that 4" flows better than 5". A certain velocity is needed to keep the flow consistent and not "bunch up" around corners and swirl. The 4" has a higher velocity due to the smaller diameter, and the gasses flow more smoothly than with the bigger pipe.



Don't take this for gospel, it's just what I've gathered from what other people have said... . and physics class.



to quote Homer Simpson, "in this house, we obey the laws of thermal dynamics!!" :p



not going to argue with you there... I guess the way I see it, my truck has a short amount of 4" before it hits the stacks... I'm installing a new turbo and giving it more fuel when the 5" system goes on, so it certainly won't feel any slower... will it be optimal? perhaps not... will it put a grin above my chin? :cool:



I just love the sound of the larger diameter systems, and I figured it'd give me room to grow... perhaps it's a little bit ricey to have all that pipe without really "needing" it, but it sure does sound good! :p



with that said, I vote to go with the 4" vs. the 3"



Forrest
 
Rip IS a heck of a guy to deal with..

No doubt about it. BUT, for a $3-400 savings by doing it myself, I think I'll go that route. I have the inclination and ability to do it. Getting the pieces from the local Freightliner dealer, I can go turbo back for under $100, plus an afternoon measuring, re-measuring, and cutting/ welding. I'm having a hard time getting the cash rounded up for even the tail pipe for $60. But, if you are not as mechanically inclined or are more concerned about looks than I (believe me, most are), then the "custom" shadetree shop job may not be for you. I'm interested in flow, spoolup, and EGT lowering. Wont show up on a dyno, but makes it more fun, and sounds better.



Daniel
 
Well now I'm a little confused... it looks like the down pipe on the BigExhaust.com system is 3" diameter. Is that the same as stock? Is that typical of 1st gen systems? Obviously you have to come out of the turbo with what ever diameter is there, and then flare up to 4" or 5" or whatever, but if I buy a system and the down pipe is 3" there'd be little advantage that I can see from building a four inch system myself using my stock down pipe. Is there an advantage to joining a 4" or larger pipe to the original pipe just inches away from the turbo outlet? In other words, use the original down pipe only as an adapter to a home built 4" system?



I've had exhaust work done and I've never been satisfied. I'm also one who just can't seem to pay high $$$ for a 'bolt in' system. I've built a number of systems for my cars over the years and it's the best alternative for me.
 
Having the 3" downpipe kinda puts a damper on the whole 4" idea... because the exhaust can only flow as well as the most constricted spot.



And yes, most 4" systems for our trucks use the 3" downpipe... but that's still better than straight 3. PDR has 4" downpipes.
 
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