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47RE Pan Temp Sensor Wire

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Iron Duke II

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Does anyone know what type of wire should be used for a transmission pan temperature sensor? My 96 2500 has an aftermarket dash gauge and the sensor was installed in the pan. However I am considering an install of a deep pan that already has the sensor threads tapped, but on the back side of the pan. So I would apparently need to splice another foot of similar type of wire? Comments appreciated.
 
A sensor in the pan will tell you the transmission fried. One in the output will tell you what you are doing to the transmission before it is fried. I had both sensors on my 2001.5 and soon learned the one in the pan was useless.
 
A sensor in the pan will tell you the transmission fried. One in the output will tell you what you are doing to the transmission before it is fried. I had both sensors on my 2001.5 and soon learned the one in the pan was useless.

Makes sense.
 
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The manufacturer (Banks) did not share the wire size, but did send a diagram, but still no wire gauge size mentioned. The exiting wire appears to be 18 gauge.

Considering a pan install with a minimal amount of teflon tape. The current oem pan has one retrofitted and the new pan has a drilled and taped port for one.

Although the True Temp from Geno's is interesting, one comment on their site mentions that the user couldn't get a good read while drive with air moving over the exposed sensor.

Thanks to all.
 
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Does anyone know what type of wire should be used for a transmission pan temperature sensor? My 96 2500 has an aftermarket dash gauge and the sensor was installed in the pan. However I am considering an install of a deep pan that already has the sensor threads tapped, but on the back side of the pan. So I would apparently need to splice another foot of similar type of wire? Comments appreciated.

Doesn't matter which wire you use as long as it is copper.
The sensor reads resistance, so best is to solder the extension.
 
There is a pretty consistent reply going on here. That is forget the pan, measure fluid temps in the output line. I originally used a sensor pod in the out line, and when DTT built the transmission in our 2001.5 they installed the 96 output line that had a port for a sensor. It required a special extension that DTT had made. My original pod came from Summit Racing.

Check with these guys for the correct one for the line size on you earlier RAM truck.

https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/transmission-line-t-fitting-adapter-for-dodge-ram-cummins/
 
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There is a pretty consistent reply going on here. That is forget the pan, measure fluid temps in the output line. I originally used a sensor pod in the out line, and when DTT built the transmission in our 2001.5 they installed the 96 output line that had a port for a sensor. It required a special extension that DTT had made. My original pod came from Summit Racing.

Check with these guys for the correct one for the line size on you earlier RAM truck.

https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/transmission-line-t-fitting-adapter-for-dodge-ram-cummins/

Thanks, but wasn't aware of this fitting. I ordered the https://www.genosgarage.com/product/acutemp-adapter/gauge-related
 
Is the discharge line from trans to cooler at the rear or the one nearest the bell housing?

According to tracking, the following from Geno's will arrive today. https://www.genosgarage.com/product/acutemp-adapter/gauge-related
See below.

Front Line is To Cooler.
Rear Line is From Cooler.

20200613_133019.jpg
 
I had added an external filter to mine and while doing it managed to crack the case :mad: at the return fitting. Fred Swanson (DTT Builder) had a case and swapped all my parts over. While doing this the filter kit had compression type fittings to the factory lines. He told me to never use those fittings as the lines are a soft metal and the fittings eventually loosen up and you can never get them to stop leaking so he flared the lines and adapted to hoses. Everything has been good for at least 5 years and have no idea if the lines would be leaking with the filter kit fittings but it does make sense.
 
Since I have the pan down to replace the filter, I may leave it off in order to see if the acutemp adapter needs some room to sort fitting it on the line.


I will need to remove some paint from the line as per the directions Geno's cites on line.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/cdn.genosgarage.com/downloads/InstallPDF/GGInstall-DG-AcuTemp.pdf

I’d like to see the indicated temp difference between that one and one like mine in the hose between the metal line and the cooler. I noticed one review that said his didn’t work while he was moving.

This may be the comment from Geno's Garage you mentioned reading; "It definitely reads the transmission outlet temp. But it doesn't work while driving. The wind under my truck cools off the aluminum so I have no idea what the actual temp is until I stop for a few mins. Going to try wrapping it with something to keep the wind off the adapter."
 
Since I have the pan down to replace the filter, I may leave it off in order to see if the acutemp adapter needs some room to sort fitting it on the line.


I will need to remove some paint from the line as per the directions Geno's cites on line.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/cdn.genosgarage.com/downloads/InstallPDF/GGInstall-DG-AcuTemp.pdf



This may be the comment from Geno's Garage you mentioned reading; "It definitely reads the transmission outlet temp. But it doesn't work while driving. The wind under my truck cools off the aluminum so I have no idea what the actual temp is until I stop for a few mins. Going to try wrapping it with something to keep the wind off the adapter."

If you can not rely on the temp readings there is little sense going through the trouble installing the probe. Get the 96 line and go to hydraulic shop and have the extension made to reach the cooler. Do it right or forget it.
 
I didn't try the 1 from Geno's, but did use the tap from Isspro. Ithought it was hokey but used it anyways. After 10k miles I started getting erratic readings. The adapter came loose and actually started rubbing through my trans line. I cut the line and installed a T compression fitting. My gauge is now reading 15°F higher, accurate 100% of the time, and no leaks. I wouldn't hesitate to cut the line. If the hose idea bothers you, don't let it. My Derale cooler came with hose to splice in with. It's also held well.
 
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