48RE Converter Going Away.. Which Replacement???

[Wingate]

I've been noticing that when driving in Tow/Haul, the converter is shuttering on the 1-2 change, then again going into L/U 4th. Its been getting worse and worse. When going to the lake the other day, it slipped pretty good going into 4th, but hasn't done it again. Increased load DEFINITELY makes it worse. Another issue I've been having is the converter draining down when it sits for several days. It actually rolled back into the trailer yesterday when my wife was going to take it to town!!!!. The trans. itself does hunt a little at low speed/load conditions, but I just altered my driving style some and that doesn't happen anymore. The truck only has 29,000 miles, under warranty until October, and completely stock and always will be. With all that said, heres my question... .

If the dealership has to pull the converter, I am going to purchase an aftermarket converter to replace it with; I would really appreciate input from those of ya'll who have in the past or are currently running aftermarket converters. I want something that is a "drop-in" replacement, does NOT require different programming, and is built specifically for towing at stock power levels. Any input/suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Note: The dealership IS going to perform the update on the governor solenoids to correct the 1-2 hunt while its in next week and adjust the bands.

 

[p-Bar]

Just from my reading experience you should do both aftermarket valve body along with torque converter. The TSB was done for the "hunt" but didn't help on mine. Good luck let us know how you came out.

 

[JDiepstra]

At stock power levels you should upgrade to a good single disk TC and do the VB as well. No need to get the triple.

 

[B.G. Smith]

I've been noticing that when driving in Tow/Haul, the converter is shuttering on the 1-2 change, then again going into L/U 4th. Its been getting worse and worse. When going to the lake the other day, it slipped pretty good going into 4th, but hasn't done it again. Increased load DEFINITELY makes it worse. Another issue I've been having is the converter draining down when it sits for several days. It actually rolled back into the trailer yesterday when my wife was going to take it to town!!!!. The trans. itself does hunt a little at low speed/load conditions, but I just altered my driving style some and that doesn't happen anymore. The truck only has 29,000 miles, under warranty until October, and completely stock and always will be. With all that said, heres my question... .

If the dealership has to pull the converter, I am going to purchase an aftermarket converter to replace it with; I would really appreciate input from those of ya'll who have in the past or are currently running aftermarket converters. I want something that is a "drop-in" replacement, does NOT require different programming, and is built specifically for towing at stock power levels. Any input/suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Note: The dealership IS going to perform the update on the governor solenoids to correct the 1-2 hunt while its in next week and adjust the bands.

The converter should not be locking/locked at the 1-2 shift, it locks after the 3-4. One thing common to transmission shift 1-2 and 3-4 is the rear clutch but it would also be involve in the 2-3 shift. I would get a second opinion before I would let the dealer replace the Tq converter. bg

 

[cerberusiam]

If your feeling some shake on a 1-2 gear change it could be the TC going bad or the front band out of adjustment and sipping. Hard to tell for sure.



If you can reproduce and get it warrantied you can TRY to get them to put in aftermarket parts but that may take some doing. Dealerships normall have to send bad parts back for testing to see what happened and they need to do paperwork correctly to get paid for warranty work. It can be done but they would need incentive to go the extra mile normally.

 

[Wingate]

At stock power levels you should upgrade to a good single disk TC and do the VB as well. No need to get the triple.

Who make a good single and triple... I don't mind the extra coin for the triple... I just don't want to have to make this repair again 30k down the road...

 

[Wingate]

If your feeling some shake on a 1-2 gear change it could be the TC going bad or the front band out of adjustment and sipping. Hard to tell for sure.



If you can reproduce and get it warrantied you can TRY to get them to put in aftermarket parts but that may take some doing. Dealerships normall have to send bad parts back for testing to see what happened and they need to do paperwork correctly to get paid for warranty work. It can be done but they would need incentive to go the extra mile normally.

I'm hoping that if I offer to pay for the aftermarket converter and the band adjustment, they can let DMC pay the labor and put the new replacement converter that they have to show as installed on THEIR parts shelf... (maybe they can sell it to another customer over the parts counter) and I assume all futher liability of the transmission for the remainder of the warranty period.

 

[cerberusiam]

Who make a good single and triple... I don't mind the extra coin for the triple... I just don't want to have to make this repair again 30k down the road...

A lot of places make a good single disk billet cover TC for reasonable cost also. Depends on how heavy you are towing, what you want the TC to do.



You can buy a decent single disk with a much better fluid coupling and upgraded parts for $600-$700.



Don't expect to have the capabilities of a $1000 custom stator and stall characteristics unit though.



Sorry for no solid answers, but, it depends on how many $$ and what you want to do.

 

[Wingate]

The converter should not be locking/locked at the 1-2 shift, it locks after the 3-4. One thing common to transmission shift 1-2 and 3-4 is the rear clutch but it would also be involve in the 2-3 shift. I would get a second opinion before I would let the dealer replace the Tq converter. bg

In tow/haul, the 1-2 shift is very abrupt. Out of tow/haul its smooth with almost no RPM change at constant throttle.

In tow/haul when going from 3rd to 4th, it USEd to go directly from 3rd into 4th lockup, it started going doing this "in between thing" and the time has been steadily increasing... . all while still in tow/haul. This condition went from never doing it, to doing it slightly, and up to almost 1. 5-2 seconds to get all the way from 3rd to 4th lockup. When its in that " in between mode" it picks up a vibration or shudder in the drivetrain. I'm just assuming these conditions are pointing toward a torque converter.

The little issue its always had about the converter draining down has been getting progressively worse as the issues above have gotten worse.

I know that the trans doesn't circulate fluid in park, but its never been this bad. Is the drain back valve actually in the converter or in the front pump???

 

[cerberusiam]

Is the drain back valve actually in the converter or in the front pump???

Output cooler line right inside the rad support under the driver side battery. Definitely sounds like the TC is done.

 

[KLauber]

Just had my Trans rebuilt after 184K miles, it started to lose interest in working properly. I had the warranty company pay 2K for the complete overhaul, stem to stern, and I ponyed up 1200 extra for a triple disc TC manufactured by Precision of New Hampton. Its all real good now and I mean its real good. Mileage went up a teeny bit too. Plus added the deep dish cooling pan, so no worries on towing 9K.

Ken

 

[Wingate]

Well, I dropped it off at the dealership this evening, I felt better after getting to speak directly with the service manager and was able to describe to him exactly what it was doing. I'm hoping that by being able to describe it directly to him, information won't get lost in the translation... . so we will see. I did tell him that if they need to drop the pan, go ahead and adjust the bands on it and I'd gladly pay for that adjustment. If I don't hear from them by Wednesday afternoon, i'll call and see how things are going.

Does anybody have 1st hand data on Suncoast converter? BD converter?... TCI??

 

[cerberusiam]

Suncoast, Goerends, BD, DTT are all pretty good IF you buy the good setups. They all have a cheaper line that are ok but not the quality or functionality of the higher dollar units.



TCI is junk for a diesel. Buy from a recognized expert if you can.

 

[Wingate]

HHMMM!!. Alooks like after reading on Goerends web-site, maybe I should just let the dealer do whatever they want for now. Maybe just let it get out of warranty and drive it until it fails. Then order a complete trans and torque converter from them. Seems like that may be the smarter way to go. decisions decisions decisions... . Sounds like if I were to do that I may be as close to the "perfect truck" as I'm ever gonna get!!

 

[Rams-n-Hogs]

HHMMM!!. Alooks like after reading on Goerends web-site, maybe I should just let the dealer do whatever they want for now. Maybe just let it get out of warranty and drive it until it fails. Then order a complete trans and torque converter from them. Seems like that may be the smarter way to go. decisions decisions decisions... . Sounds like if I were to do that I may be as close to the "perfect truck" as I'm ever gonna get!!

You really shouldn't need a whole transmission. If you can get the dealer to do it, just get the TC and VB from Goerend and let them put it in, especially if you're going to remain stock. You'll have a whole new truck. I did the TC and VB at about 20000, and I have 70000 now. We pulled it apart last year to upgrade the shafts, and the entire transmission still looked like new inside, and all of the clutch packs are still original. Call Dave, tell him how you are using your truck, and see what he recommends.

 

[Wingate]

Took Jims advice and called Dave at Goerend. After about a 20-30 minute conversation, I think I have a better understanding of the transmission's shortcomings. . He reccomended a single disc and a valve body. Got back with the dealership and they can't find anything wrong... I kinda expected that.

The one thing that I wasn't sure about after the conversation with Dave was that he said there was a possibility that the truck would set a code (CEL) with the aftermarket parts in it. Unfortunately, the local inspection stations WON'T give you a state inspection sticker if the CEL is on..... Not sure what to do at this point, drive it until it fails then get everything from Goerend to make it right(and hopefully not set a code)???. . Or try and put the TC and VB in it now and hope it doesn't set a code???

Gonna have to think about this for awhile... .

As for the converter draining down sitting, they had no answer... Guess I will just have to teach my wife to put it in neutral for a minute before trying to drive off... . Hope she's not trying to get away from a burglar!!!!

 

[p-Bar]

We have referees out here in Cali when you can't smog . Can't you show them what codes it's throwing? they are just concerned about smog I thought? "They" being the smog enforcers

 

[JEstes]

I just read this thread and thought of something: What are you going to do about a core charge? If the dealer replaces the parts under warranty, I'm sure they're going to want to keep the parts.

 

[Rams-n-Hogs]

Took Jims advice and called Dave at Goerend. After about a 20-30 minute conversation, I think I have a better understanding of the transmission's shortcomings. . He reccomended a single disc and a valve body. Got back with the dealership and they can't find anything wrong... I kinda expected that.

The one thing that I wasn't sure about after the conversation with Dave was that he said there was a possibility that the truck would set a code (CEL) with the aftermarket parts in it. Unfortunately, the local inspection stations WON'T give you a state inspection sticker if the CEL is on..... Not sure what to do at this point, drive it until it fails then get everything from Goerend to make it right(and hopefully not set a code)???. . Or try and put the TC and VB in it now and hope it doesn't set a code???

Gonna have to think about this for awhile... .

As for the converter draining down sitting, they had no answer... Guess I will just have to teach my wife to put it in neutral for a minute before trying to drive off... . Hope she's not trying to get away from a burglar!!!!

I thought there was a fix for the CEL, a resistor, or something. My 04 didn't have a problem with it. If nothing else, you might be able to do what I did with a mustang I used to have. Pull the dash and put a piece of electrical tape over the bulb. It actually passed a Md emission inspection that way, and both cats were shot. :-laf

 

[GColeman]

Throwing a CEL is pretty typical for a Calif. truck after installing an after market converter according to Dave. I have had my triple Goerend converter for about 3 years. I have thrown the code a total of 3 times since install. I just clear it with my SMARTY.



I seem to average about once per year and usually when pulling a light trailer. The CEL issue is no big deal. Find someone to clear it for you (someone with a SMARTY or some auto parts shops will do it). It literally takes under 1 minute to clear.



Good luck. You will like the feel much better with a quality converter. I like Goerend but others brands like Suncoast are just as good I'm sure.