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48RE Question concerning Exhaust Brakes

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As I have read from Pack Brake, Banks Brake, BD Diesel, and ATS Diesel; I must have a TC lock up kit for an exhaust brake to work on my 2004. Ok, so my TC needs to stay locked up to keep the engine and drive train connected for maximum effectiveness of the exhaust brake system, I get that part.



BUT, there is a funny little switch on my gear selector call "TOW/HAUL" that if depressed it will shift out of OD, down to third and lock the TC until what feels like 18 mph. So what gives? Why do I need a component to perform a task that Dodge took care of? Am I missing something?



As always thanks for your input!



Dave
 
The TC lock up needs to be there when you take your foot off the throttle and goes to idle... the programing of the transmission is such that when the computer sees idle mode it drops the pressure in the TC and allows it to drop to almost zero... thus allowing the TC to slip like a clutch...



In tow haul or any other gear... as long as your foot is on the throttle... . the computer holds up the pressure. .



With the PacBrake or other brand of controller... it see's the higher pressure and locks in that higher pressure until the RPM and speedometer drop to below a pr-determined value... once that pr-determined value is met the pressure drops off... .



And you understand the need for the power to be transmitted through the transmission to the engine to be absorbed... .



I owned a company that installed PacBrake... . we were one of their distributors for a lot of years... what I liked about their product was their relationship with Cummins and the other engine builders... their engineers designed and built a lot of exhaust brakes and engine brakes for them... that was a plus to me... . if they didn't offer the product they had a good reason... . transmission couldn't handle the power. . check their web sight... and than do your own research... and purchase what you think is best... .
 
Not to hijack, but in the cursory research I've done, few threads spell out plainly (as in, without argument and threads that last a decade and thousands of posts) what is needed for a bolt-on installation of an EB in an early 3rd Gen, like my 04, and what the recommended set-ups are. Can this be done without rebuilding the transmission?
 
BUT, there is a funny little switch on my gear selector call "TOW/HAUL" that if depressed it will shift out of OD, down to third and lock the TC until what feels like 18 mph.

Yes, the TH switch will take it out of OD which is needed. Howeverf, at 18 mph there is not enough engine rpm to provide braking and the apply pressures are too low to hold a load. Under a load it won't hold lockup down to that speed and if it does it will slip the clutches.
 
Early 04. 305/555/48RE

The 04 trucks have at least 2 different series of ECU's on them, it is hard to tell what is in each one. The break on the series came at about mid year so an 04. 5 might have additional programming that you would not have in an earlier model.

I would install a PAC barake and wire it for the 2006 application, put a pressure gauge on the apply pressure port and use it. If it does not hold lockup correctly and the pressures are too low then look at a PowerLoc and shift kit\TC upgrade.
 
The pacbrake web sight will tell you which years/engines need the kit to lock the TC up... at one point they finally integrated the engine and transmission to work together for an exhaust brake... When I ran the shop we sold and installed 2-4 a month... we followed pacbrakes advice and never had a problem... their engineering is sound...
 
The pacbrake web sight will tell you which years/engines need the kit to lock the TC up... at one point they finally integrated the engine and transmission to work together for an exhaust brake... When I ran the shop we sold and installed 2-4 a month... we followed pacbrakes advice and never had a problem... their engineering is sound...

Thanks Jim how much time should I give myself to do this? Do I need to buy anything additional? Do I need to remove the ex. manifold that wont fit back on?
 
This is a straight forward installation... remove the inner fender. . 6-8 screws... . don't remove the wheel/tire... drop the exhaust, remove the elbow (you don't touch the manifold) and install the brakes assembly... install the exhaust... tighten. . after 200 miles recheck and tighten the clamps a second time. . and than forget them. . make sure on the installation that you can run your hand around the brake and exhaust and the clamps are in place...

The instruction suggest you can plug into the ECM without removing the plug... we found that customer installed units that we saw might have loose connections at the ECM plug as the connectors were not snapped into place... so we always pulled the plug... snapped in the wires and than looked and made sure they were bottomed in the connector. .

I suggest you turn the brake on and never turn it off... . get used to touching and lifting your foot on the pedal as you want he brake on/off, in no time it becomes habit... and prevents sooting..... my guys would do just the brake in 3-4 hours. . I did one for a friend in New Mexico in his driveway... and it took me... 5-6 hours over several cups of coffee... no special tools...

There are several different styles of the TC lockup. . based on the truck... and to be honest I've personally not done one in at least 5 of 6 years. . so I can't help there much... however I don't remember any special tools...

I've taken my 05 dually down the Teton Pass, 10% over 8 miles in 2nd or 3rd gear... towing 15K lbs and only using the brakes on the 15 MPH switchbacks... . on hills that are 6% with the cruise set... . its a seamless exhaust brake, power on for the up hills ... very comfortable... .

If I didn't answer all your questions please feel free to share them...
 
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