48re upgrades

[TexasCat.]

I know this has been discussed many times, but I need some clarification. My last two trucks have had the 6sp, and now I have switched to the auto. I am unfamiliar with the way of the auto.



My truck is a 05 3500 with a work bed. It weighs a lot all of the time.



I need to know what steps that I need to take to keep the trans going. I have the smarty jr. and cold air intake. This is all the power upgrading that I plan on doing. The truck is heavy and tows often.



I am in central Texas. Does anyone know of a good trans. shop that is not too far from me. Or, are the upgrades doable on my own. I have read about upgrading the valve body, how big of a job is that?



What exactly do I need to do to make it last? Or do I let it go until it wont go anymore and completely rebuild it bulletproof?



I would appreciate your thoughts.

 

[lmills]

valve body and coverter at the very least. I would also consider a 1-2 apply lever while you are in there doing the valvebody. Overall the install is not bad at all if you are mechanically inclined.

Also, the trans itself is rather anemic in stock form and once you drive one that has been upgraded, you will notice a huge difference. Most people do not realize how sluggish there stocker is till they go aftermarket. Oh yeh, it is also a general rule of thumb to be a lot cheaper to upgrade before the damage is done rather than to wait till the trans is smoked.

I myself am a big fan of Goerend transmissions and prefer to sell them. There is a very good trans guy in TX that has Relentless Diesel. His website is Relentless Diesel Performance , check him out and see if he can help you out. His name is Cris.

 

[TexasCat.]

Can I do it in steps? I was thinking about doing the valve body and a deep pan at this time. Then later doing the converter when there is a definate reason to pull the transmission. Am I wasting my money by not going all out from the start?



What is this 1-2 apply lever you are talking about? I have read up on the heavier band strut, but am confused about the lever.



Thanks Mr. Mills for your input.

 

[JimB1]

Diesel Transmission Technology - DTT Performance Diesel Transmission and Power Accessories gives clear illustrations and explanations to all those questions.

 

[lmills]

You can do it in steps, but I wouldn't recommend it. In my personal opinion, you will benefit a lot more and keep the transmission happy if you do th converter and valvebody at the same time. Save your money on the deep pan for now and invest it in the converter.

 

[cerberusiam]

Can I do it in steps? I was thinking about doing the valve body and a deep pan at this time. Then later doing the converter when there is a definate reason to pull the transmission. Am I wasting my money by not going all out from the start?



What is this 1-2 apply lever you are talking about? I have read up on the heavier band strut, but am confused about the lever.

A shift kit will probably do all you need it to do on your truck but the VB is easier to install. Depends on how much you trust your skills or the installers.



The apply lever is a personal choice. Most builders I talk to say it is not needed till you make big HP or are sled pulling/racing, along with the band. If you fix the low apply pressures the stock band and lever work fine. Replacing the band strut with a billet piece is always reccomended.



It works quite well to do it in stages. You need to fix the pressures first to save the parts then think about the TC. The reason most reccomend the TC at the same time is the extra pressure will usually start warping the cover of it and eat the clutch up.



If you can get to it in the near future you should be fine but it will definitely be the weak link. If you are towing heavy all the time you really need to do it ASAP.

 

[TexasCat.]

I am understanding a little better now. I have put a shift kit in an old turbo 350 trans, but this seems much more complicated. It seems by the time you buy the TC, valve body, apply lever, band strut, gaskets, and filter; it would not cost much more to do a complete trans swap. Trade my stocker for an upgraded version.



I don't know, just haveing a hard time wrapping my head around spending this kind of money on something that is working. I would definatly like the feel of a more firm trans. I was towing a 15Klb backhoe last week, and the

48re did not like it. It would struggle just to get it rolling. I feel sure that much of that will take it out.



Thanks for the help. I do understand what needs to be done, just got to figure out how I am going to do it.

 

[cerberusiam]

Buying a complete unit may be your best bet unless you have a high level of thrust in a trans shop. Took me 7 years to find one locally I trust and I know as much or more about the 48RE than he does. At least we can agree that what we did is the correct for how I use my truck.



If it helps any this is what happens when towing and adding 50-60 HP to an 05 48RE and I wasn't near the weight you are talking about. The pther piece you need to consider is a DTT Shift Enhancer to help with the TV pressures. The stock trans really, really, does not like extra power and heavy weights.



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[Regcabguy]

Build it.

Sounds like Imills has given you a good shop to trust. There's a lot of labor involved,why not just do it all for your projected usage? I had a DTT on my '99 and can agree that there's a huge difference in a built transmission. I went with a manual on my '07 after driving a stocker '06. I just didn't have the bucks to go through another auto.

 

[TexasCat.]

Was your trans. acting up when you made your upgrades? What were the symtoms to make the bands and plates look like that? I am wondering if mine might already have been pushed to hard. I do not what to throw and converter, valve body, and lever at it, and it need a complete rebuild with the bands and clutches.



If I am going to swap the converter and the valve body, which do I need? Is there a particular one combination that will fit me best for towing? I have seen many different brands out there being offered, and of coarse all say theirs is the best.

 

[cerberusiam]

Was your trans. acting up when you made your upgrades? What were the symtoms to make the bands and plates look like that? I am wondering if mine might already have been pushed to hard. I do not what to throw and converter, valve body, and lever at it, and it need a complete rebuild with the bands and clutches.



If I am going to swap the converter and the valve body, which do I need? Is there a particular one combination that will fit me best for towing? I have seen many different brands out there being offered, and of coarse all say theirs is the best.

Both bands were great, even the forward clutches showed little wear. Pictured is the direct clutch pack and the extra Smarty 50 HP and TQ with the flaky TV motor and lousy line pressures is what caused it. The clutches you see have 10k pulling a trailer coast to coast with no issues. What finally got it was over extending the clutch piston and cutting the seal. The 48RE will run perfectly with a lot of damage.



I noticed something wrong when I was seeing EGT's a couple hundred degrees higher than normal and fuel mileage dropping. Took me while to figure it out and about the time I figured the trans had issues it cut the seal and did not want to shift into drive very well.



If you have been towing a lot and running extra power pull the pump and the drums and check the clutch packs. Its a good bet there is some accelerated wear there that needs to be addressed. A DTT shift Enhancer is going to be a trans saver for you also.



Good luck.

 

[DaveHess]

Oh Man Cerberusiam! Your description sounds exactly like mine right now. I used to be able to tow my 7900 TT and get 11 to 12 mpg at 65 mph but my last trip across Montana I averaged 9. 6. I too have noticed a creeping trend in EGTs. The truck also has a not so subtle flare-up going into OD. My bride thought I was just trying to throw more money on my rig until she noticed it and asked what it was. Now I just have to shake her down for the cash to get it fixed.

 

[cerberusiam]

Oh Man Cerberusiam! Your description sounds exactly like mine right now. I used to be able to tow my 7900 TT and get 11 to 12 mpg at 65 mph but my last trip across Montana I averaged 9. 6. I too have noticed a creeping trend in EGTs. The truck also has a not so subtle flare-up going into OD. My bride thought I was just trying to throw more money on my rig until she noticed it and asked what it was. Now I just have to shake her down for the cash to get it fixed.

Sorry to say it sounds just like mine before it quit for good. Better get 'er out ASAP or it may toast the rest of your transmission. :{