Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 4KGSK Questions

[biggy238]

I'm planning to install one before school this spring.



On the HD Valve springs, How Do I go about measing and marking the crank pulley so that I know when each of the cylinders is at TDC when I release the valve spring? I know every 60* at the damper (logic) but how do I go about establishing this?



Also, This shouldn't hurt my transmission without more power should it? I've read the stock plate doesn't have much fueling that high up, But I really just want this for pre 3rd and 3rd-lockup during city driving- that is, up until I get a built transmission. I want to see if I can make better use of the TC.

I am doing the 4k now instead of a 3k. I'd rather do it now and it be there waiting for me to put power behind it when I get the transmission.



Opinions, thoughts and experience always welcome.



Kyle

 

[Ol'TrailDog]

One way - by the book - on the driver's side of the engine toward the front is a plastic dowell that engages a divot in the timing gear. You turn the engine w/ the barring tool until you can engage the dowell - adjust valves or replace spring on the appropriate valves (I don't know which valves w/o looking at the book over at the house) You DISENGAGE the dowell and bar over 180* and do the remaining valves.



Hear tell you can also accomplish the same task by turning the engine over with the alternator pulley and watch when the valves on #1 hit TDC, i. e. are loose. Then repeat for #6 at TDC.



I will be putting my 60# in tomorrow so I can get my BD ebrake on.



Anything else I should do whilst performing surgery???



PS: I got to thinking about this last night. Shouldn't it be barring over a full cycle, i. e. 360* to set #6? That is, first dowell hole would be TDC with valves closes and the second would be TDC with valves open. Or does using the camshaft change this equation? Not that it is all that important, because you aint going to adjust, or replace if the valves aren't loose.

 

[biggy238]

Well. . That is something I hadn't considered. These pistons pop up in pairs don't they. So when #1 is on TDC Compression, #6 is at TDC Exhaust Too?? This would allow two valve spring swaps at once. I need to study it more.



You are correct about the Methods to bar the engine over and pinning the pump at TDC but I had no idea that the same process applied to the valve spring swap. I was planning to do all of it at once, I guess as you are. I have the valve adjust process printed out, and neatly stashed somewhere (unknown) ofcourse.



The 360* question... . I think you are right there too, although just because the valves are closed (rockers loose) doesn't mean that the piston is at TDC, which Is why I wanted to ask. I think one of us is gonna have to make a phone call if someone doesn't pipe up

 

[Voodoo Trucker]

When you compress the valve spring with the spring tool the valve will move down into the cylinder. Bar engine over and the piston will come into contact with the valve and push the valve back up. Continue baring the engine (a little @ a time) untill the valve stops moving up. You might have to tap the spring retainer to un-jam the keepers. I highly recommend the 4K upgrade to any one who is thinking about it.

 

[biggy238]

NNNNNIIIIIIIICEEE I like that. Just pray to the Almighty that is doesn't drop accidentally



So Voodoo, I took that to mean that you don't feel that it will hurt my transmission?



Thank You.

Kyle