2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 4WD front axle seal????

[Turboman]

How hard is it to change the axle seal , '02 2500 4WD front right seal. I belive it is all inside the diff. What's involved in changing this seal. It's cover by warranty, but I don't really want them to touch it. I do drive axle seals all the time, pinion seals, but never this one. Thanks cm

 

[Johnstra]

I just had both mine replaced by the shop that installed my breaks. They ruptured both seals pulling the old rotors. It was a big job. The shop owner said he had to pretty much disassemble the whole front end. I know it took him about 6 hrs - at least I didn't have to pay for it.

-john

 

[CJ Lagos]

The seals are in the axle tubes on either side of the diff bearings. You've got to pull the diff and axle shafts out. You don't really need the diff spreader.



Then just use a "driver" to get the old ones out and put new ones in.



I would talk to this guy, he may have a video:

http://www.quad4x4.com/index.html

 

[Clinton]

Yeah, you should send Dan at Quad 4x4 an email and ask. I can't say for sure on your '02 because they made a few changes in the front axle around that time.



On my '96 you don't have to pull the diff to do the right side. The seal is outside the vacuum shift motor. The intermediate shaft and shift motor are lubricated with gear oil. The left side, on the other hand, requires the diff to be pulled. I couldn't get my diff out without a case spreader, so I had a shop do the seal. Watch out for those seals, they have a reputation for being finicky, both during installation and when you slide the shafts back in.

 

[LOtero]

I've got to change mine too. it looks like a pain in the a**. thats coming from a mechanic that has the tools for the job. the right side seal is in the cad housing, youve got to pull off all the right side components brakes, hub, axle shaft. heard of a guy using all thread a couple sockets and a weigth to make his own slide hammer like the one that quad 4x4 sells. sounds like it would work. good luck

 

[nps]

Your 02 may or may not have a CAD axle. Look at the passenger side of the axle tube and see if there is a large bulge in the tube - if so this is the CAD and the passenger seal is inside the CAD housing.



If the axle tube is straight all the way from the pumpkin to the knuckle then you don't have a CAD and the seal is in the pumpkin.



Either CAD or no CAD, you need to pull the axles and that is what is the hard part. There is a thread that describes a method of using the power steering to pull out the hub - this is the hardest step.



Be very careful putting the axles back in - you don't want to nick the new seal.



on edit - here is the post on the power steering assist:

A tip from a friend that works,I removed the rotors/hubs today. Loosen the 4 hub bolts leaving 3-4 threads remaining,remove axle nut now with a friendly helper around have him start the truck while you place your socket and short extension on the bolt head have him turn the wheel until the extension contacts the axle housing thus using hydraulic pressure of the power steering to push the hub/bearing out /straighten wheel and move to the other side in the x pattern turn wheel again and push. My need to push from all 4 bolts and presto . No beating and cussing required. Hope this is uderstandable and helps some one else. It worked great for me today both hubs on the floor in less than 30 minutes. One more tip is to stick a long screwdriver thru the u joint to keep from pulling it out of the carrier when removing the hub/rotor from the truck,after removal shimming the end of the axle up may prevent seal deforming from not being supported and centered with the hub removed. Good luck

 

[CJ Lagos]

Here is a tip to get the diff out, I've had a lot of axles apart and never used a spreader.



Use a piece of wood or something wedged between the ring gear and the bottom of the housing. Turn the pinon yoke and as the pinion turns it will force the diff out of the housing. I can't remember which direction to turn the yoke but I think on a standard cut it is counter-clockwise.

 

[CJ Lagos]

Here is a picture of the superior seals for d30.



#ad




http://www.superioraxle.com/htmlfolder/axleseals.html

 

[Nate]

I just did the seals on my 98 a few weekends ago. No all that hard. I had to make a driver out of some muffler pipe for the pass side seal, then I slide a pipe through the housing and used it kind of like a slide hammer.



You don't need a case spreader to remove the diff. They are setup with some preload, but they aren't super tight. I couldn't get the proper angle with a pry bar, so I just took a ratchet strap wraped around the diff and the sway bar and it came right out without hardly any force. Just don't let it drop on the ground of course!



For the hubs. I had done the ball joints not that long ago, so they came right off. When I did the ball joints they weren't so easy. All I did was use a cold chisel around the edge of the hub and work my way around. Used this method on alot of Dodge and Jeep hubs and has worked everytime.

 

[Turboman]

IT does have the CAD, Its an early 02 before they disconed the CAD. So the seal is not in the diff? I can get it out throught the axle tube?? Thanks

 

[Nate]

Pass side seal is on the outboard side of the CAD. The driver's side is in the pumpkin.



You could do it without pulling the diff apart. I'm not sure how to go about getting the seal seated in there doing it like that though.

 

[nps]

IT does have the CAD, Its an early 02 before they disconed the CAD. So the seal is not in the diff? I can get it out throught the axle tube?? Thanks

Like Nate said, the passenger side is in the CAD housing and you do not need to pull the diff carrier to change it - only the pass side hub and axle.



Before you go to that trouble, why did it start leaking and when? The reason I ask is that the specs on front axle fill is 1/2 inch below the hole. Many folks change it and fill to the top, which causes lube to weep from the seals until the level drops. Maybe you just did a change?



Another culprit is the puke (vent) hose that comes off the CAD housing and goes up to the inner fender under the airbox. If this is clogged the front end will pressurize and force lube out. Make sure the plastic vent cap at the top is clear.



If all else fails and you do have to change the seal, if it were my truck I'd do both seals and also the u joints while I have the axles out.

 

[CJ Lagos]

The axle should not be leaking when filled to hole in the cover. Another option for added fluid capacity is to use a Ford D60 cover which has a higher fill hole. I think it is a little over 1" higher. Even with this taller fill hole the axle should not be leaking through the axle seals - if it does, replace them.



On a side note, I was recently reviewing the 7 year/100,000 mile limited powertrain warranty on my 2002 Truck. I attached an image which lists the covered components on 4x4 axles. The way I read it, all axle seals should be covered(subject to the $100 deductable). By the way, does anyone know what an axle shaft bearing is? u-joints?

 

[nps]

The axle should not be leaking when filled to hole in the cover.

"Should not" and "will not" are two different things.

 

[CJ Lagos]

"Should not" and "will not" are two different things.

If the axle seals leak when filled to the fill hole the seals are bad, period. The fact it stops leaking when the level drops just means your low on fluid



It will definately decrease service life of the assembly.

 

[nps]

Running low on fluid is not a good idea.

1/2 inch below the fill port is not low. It is the factory spec.



Leaking when overfilled does not mean the seals are bad. But fill yours as you see fit.

 

[CJ Lagos]

1/2 inch below the fill port is not low. It is the factory spec.



Leaking when overfilled does not mean the seals are bad. But fill yours as you see fit.

Where does it say that? That is terrible advice. The D60 center section on our trucks has been used for over twenty years. 1/2 below the fill port is low no matter what the manual says.

 

[Turboman]

Like Nate said, the passenger side is in the CAD housing and you do not need to pull the diff carrier to change it - only the pass side hub and axle.



Before you go to that trouble, why did it start leaking and when? The reason I ask is that the specs on front axle fill is 1/2 inch below the hole. Many folks change it and fill to the top, which causes lube to weep from the seals until the level drops. Maybe you just did a change?



Another culprit is the puke (vent) hose that comes off the CAD housing and goes up to the inner fender under the airbox. If this is clogged the front end will pressurize and force lube out. Make sure the plastic vent cap at the top is clear.



If all else fails and you do have to change the seal, if it were my truck I'd do both seals and also the u joints while I have the axles out.

Sooo how do I get the seal out of the pass side.

I have never chgd fluid in it, it is still clean, It has never been low either. My parking at home is low on the pass side, so I guess that got it to leaking. You can see the fluid dripping from the end of the pass side axle tube. Thanks

 

[nps]

To get at the pass side seal, you take off the CAD cover. Pull the axle, then dig out the seal with a seal puller (hook-shaped screwdriver) or use the old time-tested method of prying it out with a screwdriver.



As someone else posted, a driver inserted through the drivers side would be nice, but that means pulling the meatball, the pass half-shaft and the driver's side axle.



Otherwise, use care and make sure the new seal is well aligned as you tap it in. The room inside the CAD is tight, but it can be done with care and perseverance.



Blow some air down through your vent tube while you have the cover off to clean it out.

 

[Nate]

What I did to remove the seals is run a pipe down the tube and a few hits and it will pop right out.