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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 4WD Low Front Disconnect Kit + Automatic

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission '98 Brake - allen wrench size?

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) RED-Black or Silver?

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I seem to remember reading about these kits available to lock transfer case in Low, but only rear axle.



Manuevering a large 5'er would be much easier if front was not engaged.



Anyone able to offer any advice?



I also noted when I read about these some time ago that everyone had a stick. Does the auto engage in gear too toughly?
 
Hopefully someone else will chime in with his contact info. I have one of Bob V's 2 wheel low kits. (you might try a search on I think his member name is Bob V) I also have an auto. Having an auto with his kit is no problem.



There are other methods as well. You can use a cable to mechanically engage the front axle(sorry cant remeber the name of it). I think Piers sells a 2low kit as well. You can also homebrew one too.



After doing some research I decided I didnt want to reinvent the wheel and liked his proven approach the best. Not that the others dont work because they obviously do I just personally liked his method the best.
 
BarryG said:
Hopefully someone else will chime in with his contact info. I have one of Bob V's 2 wheel low kits. (you might try a search on I think his member name is Bob V) I also have an auto. Having an auto with his kit is no problem.



There are other methods as well. You can use a cable to mechanically engage the front axle(sorry cant remeber the name of it). I think Piers sells a 2low kit as well. You can also homebrew one too.



After doing some research I decided I didnt want to reinvent the wheel and liked his proven approach the best. Not that the others dont work because they obviously do I just personally liked his method the best.

Could I just disconnect the vacuum line when I needed to use 4-Low?
 
I used to just dissconnect the vac line and I did it often but I bought the cable system and WOW how nice and convienient.
 
Bob has the best kit in my opinion. It applies vacuum to both sides of the actuator as needed. It is very safe, it won't cause any troubles with anything. You can drive around in 4WD and leave the valve off if you want to, flipping it on when you want to engage the front axle. The parts are top quality and the install is easy, with great instructions. You can use it in both 4low and 4high, it just does what the trasfer case does to disengage the front axle but gives you that function independent of the transfer case lever.
 
So Bob V's kit isn't just a CAD disconnect? It actually shifts the T case into 2 low?



I would think a simple solenoid valve on the vac line fitting to block off the CAD and then shift into 4 low would be the easiest.
 
RAndrae said:
I used to just dissconnect the vac line and I did it often but I bought the cable system and WOW how nice and convienient.

Who makes the "Cable System"?



Bob's kit appears nice, but lots of stuff. More Stuff usually costs more $$
 
I use a switch and the EGR solenoid removed from my truck. switch on and the solenoid applies vac and engages 4WD. Off and go to low w/o front axle.

Cable looks like good way to do it since the vac controls can be flakey. replaced all vac lines w/silicon hose so I am good to go for awhile.
 
I have the posi-loc cable controled system. I bought mine through NAPA about 3 years ago. I have an automatic, and it works fine... very simple and strong.



Steve Keim
 
Biggy, the kit only does the CAD, but it does it with vacuum on BOTH sides of the actuator. It does what the transfer case does in the sense that it supplies the vacuum signal to the CAD just like when you shift into 4WD with the transfercase shift lever, but allows you to leave it in "4WD" but not have the CAD actuate, giving you 2wd in both low and high range. Works great and is safe, you won't accidently slip into 4WD, unless you flip the valve.
 
Bob V kit is priced very fairly given the parts he supplies. Like others have said, Bob did his research and has the best Vacuum kit available, his kit supplies vacuum to each side of the CAD actuator as required. Just blocking vacuum to CAD engagement is not the best idea, as it is then floating and could engage on its own. SNOKING
 
I have a dumb question.



If the CAD is disconnected, what prevents the front driveshaft from attempting to engage the drivers side front wheel when in 4WD low?



If this works, then the Drivers side is "never" is engaged?
 
ctdodgeram said:
I have a dumb question.



If the CAD is disconnected, what prevents the front driveshaft from attempting to engage the drivers side front wheel when in 4WD low?



If this works, then the Drivers side is "never" is engaged?

It's an open diff. With the pass axle disconnected it's as good as having the pass tire on ice and the drivers tire on the road. :-laf All the power goes to the pass axle with no traction.



The reason you need BobVs kit is that the CAD collar can float if vacuum isn't applied to it to keep it engaged or disengaged (like what happens if you unplug the vac lines). If it floats in and out of contact, you can damage or break things. Bob's kit is also much less $$$ than the cable option, but the cable option eliminates the vacuum motor if it is bad.
 
keimmmo said:
I have the posi-loc cable controled system. I bought mine through NAPA about 3 years ago. I have an automatic, and it works fine... very simple and strong.



Steve Keim

I did a search at Napaonline.com, and can't find anything.



You happen to have a P/N?
 
My 2WL kit from BobV should be here any day now. I ordered the Deluxe kit for the automatic. I've done a lot of TDR research and have not found one person who was unhappy with this kit, most recommend it. Many have tried to save money by building their own, some have succeeded but most end up paying more and burning more time. I considered the cable controlled type but I think the mounting options would be more limited and the cost is quite a bit more.
 
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