2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 4x2 sealed bearing RETROFIT

[WadePatton]

Anybody tell me why I can't swap out my Y2K spindles and rotors for a 1994-99 set and use standard bearings?



For those that don't know, the Y2K and later 2WD trucks carry a sealed bearing up front. The bearing assembly is $250 each dealer only. You cannot maintain your own bearings.



I can buy old style bearings/races/seals for $30 per side, BUT if you repack them now and again they'll last way longer than any "sealed" unit.



My right front stuper sealed unit is trash now at 80k. Hmmm that means the left might go 100k. So new sealed bearings every 100k and I put over 300k on my last truck and plan to put at least 400k on this one--that's $2000 for WHEELFREAKINBEARINGS not including labor, versus $300 for old-fashioned bearings changed four times and some grease.



So I'm going tomorrow to get some junkyard spindles and seef I can swap all that stuff out. Shouldn't be too bigga deal. Might need a different caliper too.





Somebody STOP ME!Oo. ~~~~~~~~~~~ not

 

[RDHamill]

I 'm with you on not being happy with the sealed for "life" bearings.

On my '01 2500 4x4 the left went away at 95,000 miles.

the replacment was almost $400CDN.

I figured I had little to lose so I played with the old unit.

I removed the bolt that holds the ABS sensor in place, and drilled down the hole until I got into the cavity between the inner and outer bearing.

I then took a 6mm bolt and drilled a small hole right thru it,and mounted a zerk on top of it. Used a jam nut to hold the abs sensor.

I can now grease my sealed units.

the remaining OE unit has 142,000 miles on it and is still tight, the replacment unit is fine as well. I grease them every time I have a wheel off the front.



you might have a look at this

I thought that it would be an easy kit to make, all that's needed is a drill bit and a fabricated bolt with zerk. A great little BOMB that will save $$$$$ Oo.



Rick

 

[daveshoe]

They are serviceable

On the Y2k and up 4wd [sounds like 2wd as well] first you buy a 3 jaw puller from harbor freight for 15 bucks. Replace the bolts on this puller with grade 5. The puller will take off the ''outer'' wheel bearing assembly-- it is easy to get to to grease.

I made a puller that matches up to the four bolts that hold the rear bearing unit to the truck. Visualize a dice as in a pair of dice you roll numbers with . the outer ''eyes of the dice make a 3 7/8 '' square drilled to 5/8 diameter and the inner eye is 1 1/4 drilled diameter. These five holes are centered into a 1/2 inch thick 8 inch diameter steel plate. buy some 14mm x 80 mm grade 8. 8 bolts To use the device, thread the bolts through the plate into the rear bearing assembly. Thread them in from the FRONT. Of course , this is after you have removed the factory 12 point bolts and the brake rotor. This four bolt threading action acts just like a gear puller--no heat and beat. It pushes the unit off by acting against the end of the driveshaft [on 4wd] The reason the plate is round is that you can also use a 3 jaw puller to further aid removal-- 5 bolt bearing puller with astounding strength.

After the rear section of bearing is removed, you can simply place it over a paint spray can and tap it apart -- the rear bearing is now exposed and ready to clean and service . Use a bearing press to reassemble the front and rear together. For easy service the next time, use never seize on the rusty parts for easy removal the next time. I am including this for those of you who wish to examine the state of your bearings and races. If you make this puller accessory NOW it can save a lot of headaches later. Mine is always available for any tdr member

As for the zerk bolt thingy-- WOW why didn't I think of that. I also wonder if you could inject grease through the sensor hole [ mine goes all the way through the housing ] The 4WD engage light stayed on for a while after I serviced the bearing, so it could be a 4WD sensor

Anyway RDHamill-- GREAT IDEA I didn't post this to take away from yours-- just to help out when you finally need to replace the bearings.

 

[WadePatton]

I'm too far in to back out now. Besides that the bearing is really junk at this point. I'm driving 3 hours round trip for spindles out of a 3500 here in a minute. He's getting 125 per side. Maybe they'll fit.



I'll report as I can.



Now to pop some ball joints.

 

[RDHamill]

daveshoe, great set up , as long as we are outsmarting the engineer that designed this "unservicable" part.

I used the 50 ton press at the shop to push apart my OE unit that was bad, I tried to remove the ABS sensor but only managed to break it, so I thought better than to do that with the new unit $$$$$$.

good deal on the 2wd switch, when you're finished you'll be set for a pile of miles.

great site this TDR.

Rick

 

[WadePatton]

Okay, drive wound up being 5 hours round trip.



Now I'm back with spindle in hand and hain't had time or energy to see how it matches. It is possible that I'll need a caliper.



More as this story develops...

 

[WadePatton]

Okay now it's gotten kinda pricey. I had to buy a caliper and had no core. They don't take odd stuff back. Also bought new rotor. And pads!.



So I'm going to try like heck to find rotor/caliper/spindle for the other side. Maybe the wunderbar sealed junk will last long enough. 4x2 and 2500 is a rare combination.



Anyhoo, the rain has let up and I'm going out there for final assembly.



Looks like I will have to align it too.

 

[parcher]

Wade, If the new parts fit then you don't need the old ones right? Send your old calipers back as cores on the new ones, The re-builder won't care. I have done this with starter motors, sent a different core than what I got.

 

[WadePatton]

DONE! BOMBED them bearings baby!

Put the other side on today. Now I have new, servicable bearings that will last many moons and are easy/cheap to replace!



The job was a bit of a chore. And I ran up a pretty good bill. The hardest part is finding used 4x2 parts. I drove 100 miles one way to the salvage yard. The spindles came off a 98 3500 independent suspension truck. (94-99 2500 or 3500 ind. is the fit list) Bad news is that the rotors won't work. But the calipers will! I bought the spindles for 125 each. New pads, new rotors (116 each USD for NON-CHINESE). Various other expenditures--I spent a bit too much.



If I was to do it again (and I would). I'd get used spindles and calipers AND rotors if they'll fit--you have to replace them after a while anyway. Heck the brake pads that came from the junkyard were good enough to use. AND BE ABSOLUTELY SURE to all the little goodies like spindle nut and retainer--that's 20 bucks per side at the DEALER. Also get the brake line bolt. The new(old) bolts didn't match and I had to drill out the block end of the brake hose--yeah, that was ugly.



I still need a grease cap and split my lower ball joint boots--DEALER only must by CONTROL ARM ASSEMBLY to get ball joints. :-{}



I had to crank the tie rods out quite a bit to get the wheels straight. It drives okay, but am going to the alignment shop in the morning.



Racers note: I shaved fifty pounds or so off the front end. The old calipers and spindles bolt directly together. Lost that big honkin' hunk of iron adapter.



I'm happy to have UNengineered some DC crap.

Oo.