2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 4x4 3500 front axle

[4dodgepoor]

HELP!!! My 98 3500 4x4 split a brake rotor, broke all the webbing between rotor surfaces. Was ready for a brakejob anyway. Trying to get sealed wheelbearing unit off. Using heat, airhammer on bolt heads, and good penetrating oil, got a little movement. Truck has 162k on it, so good amount of corrosion as evident by rotor rotting apart. Doing u-joints also as one is loose. See rust around one of the knuckle balls. This job is such a pain in the #*!@, thinking about replacing them too. NOW for the questions. Any good tricks for getting the sealed wheel bearing unit off, other than trading trucks ? Next I'm worried about the wheel bearings[lot of vibration from air hammer], any way to check them? I assume that you have to replace the whole bearing unit. Somewhere on TDR I remember reading about adjustable bushings for changing the caster/ camber. Where can I get them? Any other tips while I have the front axle tore apart? God this is going to be expensive!!!!!! Thanks NWF

P. S. Putting on crossdrilled rotors.

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

Originally posted by Andy Redmond





Ingall's Engineering (Denver, CO area) manufactuers adjust. caster/camber sleeves for the upper ball joint.



These are slick. If you have an older 2nd gen the eccentrics on the bottom of the lower control arm will likely not allow enough positive caster to eliminate this, without the Ingall's products mentioned.



You need a few parts and a good alignment shop and you'll be smiling soon! If your alignment place hasn't heard of Ingall's ask them about Astro, that should cross over too (ingall part in astro box).

 

[Extreme1]

When mine comes apart, it gets new ball joints and u-joint. I know precisely how much fun youre having! The best bet for bearing removal is a slide hammer, I borrow one from a friend but AutoZone claimes to rent them for free. 15 minutes of pounding did the trick.



After you get the bearing and axle out (be careful not to nick the seal), the next fun thing will be to get the lower ball joint out. I needed to get another pickle fork because it had to have an opening 1 1/4" wide as I recall.



Clean up the rust on the hub bore and exterior of the bearing housing and it will slide right back in. Put something on there to keep rust from forming and the next time it should come apart easier.