2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 4x4 ball joint diagnostic procedure?

[JSellers]

Hi Everyone,



I'm new here, but have lurked for quite a while. I'm appreciative for all the learning provided, and have embarked on my trip down the slope of addictive modifications.



What I'd like to know now is - what is the DC required/recommended procedure for checking ball joint wear? My service manual doesn't include this for the 4x4 axle. The procedure is listed for the 2wd front end, but only lists replacement procedure for the 4wd ball joints.



When I added the KORE springs and shocks, the worn ball joints became that much more apparent. (I knew I had a bad tire wear problem, but I was still working on the specifics, one by one. ) I have a warrantee contract, so I went on down to the dealer, who initially said there was no wear, and they proceded to charge me for an alignment. The explanation for this: I wasn't using the 'correct' procedure for checking the ball joint wear. Well, I always thought any wear meant bad ball joints. My check was to lift under the axle, use a pry bar beneath the tire, and watch the joints move from 1/10 to 1/8 inch; top and bottom together. Is this not a valid test?



A few phone calls later, a demand for refund of the warrantee contract premium, and another trip back - and they finally replaced the ball joints "to ensure my satisfaction". But, I still want to know what that "correct" diagnostic procedure could be? My conversations with the service manager seem to indicate that he could be confusing the 2wd procedure with the missing 4wd procedure. He talked about the need to have "weight on the wheels, and using a pry bar between the control arm and ?(somewhere?)" - then proceeded to tell me the play I noticed wouldn't matter because the "trucks weight on the ball joints would negate this joint movement. (I didn't want to antagonize this man further, so I just ended the discussion at this point. ) I told him that I couldn't find a 4wd diagnostic in the service manual, but he was still skeptical (sp?). In any case, I'm not going to press an argument, since I'm glad to have the job done under my service contract.



As an added bonus, they destroyed both front hubs when removing, so I got new hubs in the bargain.



What do you guys do when checking ball joints?

 

[BLucia]

A great way to check your ball joint is to jack the vehicle off the ground and put jack stands under the axle. Then grab your tire at the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock possision and rock the tire back and forth. If there is any movment, you have a ball joint that has a wear problem and should be replaced. When a ball joint is bad you should hear a clunk noise when you rock the tire back and forth.

 

[ata]

Yes you did it right. No matter what they tell you there is not to be any slack movement in the ball joints.

 

[DwayneKelch]

Jumpin' in on this late, but... I just had (Oct 04, 70K miles) my upper/lower ball joints (both sides) and track bar replaced by dealer. All the classic signs of wear were there, tire hop on rough roads, and jerking to the right when hitting pot holes (never had death wobble though). Replacing these parts seem to have fixed the problem.



Now, however (at 76K), my driver side tire (outer side of tread) has worn and the truck continually pulls right. Have taken the truck back to have alignment and ball joints checked, they say everything is within spec. Funny my truck never pulled to the right, or tire wear, before they replaced the parts.



Didn't like their answer so took the truck to a reputable alignment shop, they checked ball joints and said the right side, upper and lower, needs to be replaced. Is this insane, or what? I actually witnessed their inspection, and was performed as stated in this thread. Ball joints flexed 1/8".



Took the truck back to the dealer and they refused to do anything... they claimed ball joints and alignment are within spec, again. Although this time they gave me a printout of alignment settings and told me how much ball joints moved. I guess DC thinks it's normal for ball joints to have play. Too, according to TDR post, the alignment settings are what's causing the truck to pull right. Oh yeh, they said they'll fix the alignment problem but it would take 1-4 hours to align to TDR specs. See ya, I said. I guess they're willing to take my money and align a truck with bad ball joints... I'm no expert, but I'm not stupid either.



Have 24K left on extended warranty, guess I'll be stuck with the bill fixing inferior parts supplied by DC. Sorry for the long post, but had to vent. Overall, I've received great service from other dealers, Colorado and Alaska. Unfortunately, Ft Smith, Arkansas, doesn't have their act together. May have to look for another dealer further from home. Any suggestions?



Dwayne

 

[JSellers]

Okay guys 'n gals,



I got my new ball joints back, and the ride is much improved - no more vibration (well, none that I can't attribute to the worn tires). I think this may have cured my worst problem at the front axle. The same check I performed before shows no movement between the steering knuckle and axle. I'll ask this again - does anyone know the "approved" procedure for checking play?



Also, I think I may be missing some seals on the new lower joints. There's no seal between the steering knuckle and the axle fitting. There are seal pieces in the same place on the upper joints, but I can see the stud on the lower joints, looking between the knuckle and axle. I don't remember if these seals were present with all the old ball joints. Did my dealer service leave seals out for these lower joints?



Thanks,

John