4x4 Bilstein shock question

[Niki]

I need shocks and front springs... BAD. The front leafs are pretty much flat. I plan on putting front skyjacker leveling leaves when I have time(never), until then I'd like to throw a set of new shocks on it just to make it livable. What are the Bilstein shock #'s people are using for 4x4's, and will the same shock work w/ a sagged out front ride height and a level height so I don't have to buy shocks twice? Thanks

 

[Makaio]

Niki,



I would install the lift first and then measure from mount to mount for the correct shock length. My buddies at the 4X4 shop have always sold shocks based on actual measurements in the parking lot and then looking up correct working lengths; more accurate than simply going by what the catalog application calls for. Unless you're really hooked on Bilstein, Skyjacker makes a good gas shock and so do a few others at a cheaper price. Don't get me wrong, Bilsteins are excellent. It's just that a comparable shock could be had for less. Another issue you're going to deal with is the front portion of the spring eye bushings. Our trucks ('92 and '93 diesels) have a 5/8 bolt in the front of the spring and a 1/2 bolt in the rear; the front spring eyes are rolled larger and that was done to increase strength. The Skyjacker bushings are 1/2 all around (gas application) so you will have to eliminate the steel sleeve so the 5/8 bolt will fit through. This has brought up different opinions about mounting it that way. A few of us on the forum are running without the front steel sleeve but I have had lengthy and heated discussions with the guys at the spring shop about this practice. :-{} Others have modified their own bushing to fit the sleeve but I'm not too fond on removing bushing material for a larger sleeve as you have to take into consideration bushing compression and the crush factor on the sleeve. Hope this helps.

 

[therabbittree]

having just delt with the shock mounts yesterday . . some of the first gens came with 1/2 all the way around. my '89 w350 srw has 1/2 bottom front shock mounts on it and the '92 i am building now has those monster like 1 1/16 " nut bottom bolts for the factory air shocks from the factory air shock from the snow plow prep package. . . so it is possible to fit the 1/2" mounts on another truck but I think they changed it due to needing more strength.

Thanks,

Deo

 

[Niki]

So let me get something straight, the different size mounts we're talking about are for the front leafs, right? Has anyone gone to a spring shop and had leaves made that fit correctly? Shaving down the bushing or using a smaller bolt sounds shady to me. As for the skyjacker shocks, Hydros or Nitros? I've had skyjacker shocks before on my old '95, I was just curious about bilsteins I guess.

 

[Niki]

Niki,



I would install the lift first and then measure from mount to mount for the correct shock length. My buddies at the 4X4 shop have always sold shocks based on actual measurements in the parking lot and then looking up correct working lengths; more accurate than simply going by what the catalog application calls for. Unless you're really hooked on Bilstein, Skyjacker makes a good gas shock and so do a few others at a cheaper price. Don't get me wrong, Bilsteins are excellent. It's just that a comparable shock could be had for less. Another issue you're going to deal with is the front portion of the spring eye bushings. Our trucks ('92 and '93 diesels) have a 5/8 bolt in the front of the spring and a 1/2 bolt in the rear; the front spring eyes are rolled larger and that was done to increase strength. The Skyjacker bushings are 1/2 all around (gas application) so you will have to eliminate the steel sleeve so the 5/8 bolt will fit through. This has brought up different opinions about mounting it that way. A few of us on the forum are running without the front steel sleeve but I have had lengthy and heated discussions with the guys at the spring shop about this practice. :-{} Others have modified their own bushing to fit the sleeve but I'm not too fond on removing bushing material for a larger sleeve as you have to take into consideration bushing compression and the crush factor on the sleeve. Hope this helps.

Running w/o the steel sleeve doesn't sound like a good idea... Off topic, but I see you're in Hawaii. I was on Oahu and the big island last year and couldn't believe all the first gen Dodges, old Chevy K20/30s, etc all in great shape and lifted/modded. I guess it must be the lack of road salt that keeps them preserved in Hawaii, compared to the midwest :-laf

 

[Makaio]

So let me get something straight, the different size mounts we're talking about are for the front leafs, right? Has anyone gone to a spring shop and had leaves made that fit correctly? Shaving down the bushing or using a smaller bolt sounds shady to me. As for the skyjacker shocks, Hydros or Nitros? I've had skyjacker shocks before on my old '95, I was just curious about bilsteins I guess.

Correct, the FRONT spring eye on 92's and 93's are rolled larger to accomodate a larger bushing, hence larger bolt. Skyjacker makes one type of front leaf springs for early Dodges; they never addressed the change in the diesel spring eye size for our years. All gassers and 89-91 First Gen. diesels have the same spring eye bolt all around; the 1/2 bolt. As a matter of fact, the SAME leaf springs are used for a 4" lift (gas) and a 2" lift (diesel). You could go to a spring shop and have them re-arch your springs and I believe they can even add another leaf. The local shop here told me they could've re-arched up to 3. 5" lift and in most cases improve the ride. I was so hooked on Skyjacker at the time so I opted for that route. Also, if you were looking into Bilsteins, then get the Skyjacker Nitros as they are nitrogen charged like the Bilsteins; the Hydros are hydraulic. I'm with you on shaving down the bushing but if you used a 1/2 bolt in the front, you would have to reduce the 5/8 hole to accomodate the smaller bolt. The frame is hardened steel so keep that in mind if you were going to weld something like a flat bar and drill a new hole. Do not used mild steel to reduce the hole.

 

[Makaio]

Running w/o the steel sleeve doesn't sound like a good idea... Off topic, but I see you're in Hawaii. I was on Oahu and the big island last year and couldn't believe all the first gen Dodges, old Chevy K20/30s, etc all in great shape and lifted/modded. I guess it must be the lack of road salt that keeps them preserved in Hawaii, compared to the midwest :-laf

There are a few of who are running without the steel sleeve. I called Skyjacker when I installed mine and the tech told me to simply eliminate the sleeve. When I visited the local spring shop, they told me it's not good practice to do so but mentioned that Toyotas use a poly bushing with no steel sleeve. I don't off road my truck so I wasn't too alarmed but it does raise some concern in my mind and I use it as is because I'm limited in options. Lastly, the trucks you see that are in great shape is because these guys are meticulous. Remember, we are islands surrounded by ocean and there's salt in the air everywhere. The key here is to keep your rig garaged and out of the rain. The salt in the air creeps in places you wouldn't think of.

 

[Firstgenfanantic]

some thoughts........

Correct, the FRONT spring eye on 92's and 93's are rolled larger to accomodate a larger bushing, hence larger bolt. Skyjacker makes one type of front leaf springs for early Dodges; they never addressed the change in the diesel spring eye size for our years. All gassers and 89-91 First Gen. diesels have the same spring eye bolt all around; the 1/2 bolt. As a matter of fact, the SAME leaf springs are used for a 4" lift (gas) and a 2" lift (diesel). You could go to a spring shop and have them re-arch your springs and I believe they can even add another leaf. The local shop here told me they could've re-arched up to 3. 5" lift and in most cases improve the ride. I was so hooked on Skyjacker at the time so I opted for that route. Also, if you were looking into Bilsteins, then get the Skyjacker Nitros as they are nitrogen charged like the Bilsteins; the Hydros are hydraulic. I'm with you on shaving down the bushing but if you used a 1/2 bolt in the front, you would have to reduce the 5/8 hole to accomodate the smaller bolt. The frame is hardened steel so keep that in mind if you were going to weld something like a flat bar and drill a new hole. Do not used mild steel to reduce the hole.

This is precisely why I am seriously looking into having a local leaf spring shop re-arch and add a leaf to my front springs. I know two local 1st gen folks who did this and had awesome results. I also know that this method is way cheaper than buying a $400-$500 kit. I just don't like the idea of having to "modify" a brand new part that you paid good money for. I am looking for quality, price, and no special tricks to make it work. I wonder if anyone else on here has gone a different route than the usual Skyjacker leveling way?

 

[MMeier]

This is precisely why I am seriously looking into having a local leaf spring shop re-arch and add a leaf to my front springs. I know two local 1st gen folks who did this and had awesome results. I also know that this method is way cheaper than buying a $400-$500 kit. I just don't like the idea of having to "modify" a brand new part that you paid good money for. I am looking for quality, price, and no special tricks to make it work. I wonder if anyone else on here has gone a different route than the usual Skyjacker leveling way?

Thats the way I went with mine, brought it up about 3" from where it was. Replaced the front shocks with some that were 2" longer then the stockers. Going to replace all 4 with new shocks this coming spring.

 

[Firstgenfanantic]

Thats the way I went with mine, brought it up about 3" from where it was. Replaced the front shocks with some that were 2" longer then the stockers. Going to replace all 4 with new shocks this coming spring.

I would be interested in knowing how your re-arch turned out and what the cost was to do it.

 

[MMeier]

I would be interested in knowing how your re-arch turned out and what the cost was to do it.

I'm real happy with it, ride is . . well, it's a first gen:-laf like me, rude,crude and loud !! They added a leaf to the middle of the pack and used like a 100 ton press to shape the others, cost IIRC was around $220 at a local spring shop. I didn't like the Skyjacker "solution" to the eye bolt issue and decided this was better for me and the truck.

 

[Firstgenfanantic]

I'm real happy with it, ride is . . well, it's a first gen:-laf like me, rude,crude and loud !! They added a leaf to the middle of the pack and used like a 100 ton press to shape the others, cost IIRC was around $220 at a local spring shop. I didn't like the Skyjacker "solution" to the eye bolt issue and decided this was better for me and the truck.

Nice! Yeah, I'm thinking the exact same thing. Did you unbolt and bring the springs into the shop for them to re-arch or was the price quoted for them to do all the work?

 

[MMeier]

Nice! Yeah, I'm thinking the exact same thing. Did you unbolt and bring the springs into the shop for them to re-arch or was the price quoted for them to do all the work?

They did it all, drove it in, picked it up that afternoon!

 

[Firstgenfanantic]

They did it all, drove it in, picked it up that afternoon!

Sweet deal!!!! Um, yeah... ... . that's exactly what I need to do. I have a couple of other 1st gen friends that recommended me to a local spring shop. They told me to avoid hassles and just let them do it all. They also informed me that a support leaf is added in for longevity strength. :-laf