2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 4x4 front axle joints

[SSSmith]

I'm replacing ball joints and universal joints on a 95, HD, 4x4. Dana 60 axles up front. Left side is nearly done. This is a first time job for me so the learning curve is steep. The forum archives gave me the courage to try it myself; that and the dealer price of $1400 to do bushings alone on both sides.



Question is: have any of you experienced interference with the zerk fitting on new Performance brand upper ball joints from NAPA? The suspension is still hanging off the ground, all assembled except the caliper. Both axle yolks clip the right angle zerk fitting at the bottom of the upper replacement ball joint when the axle/rotor is turned.



There is a plug provided with the ball joint kit as an alternative to the zerk fitting. It would fill the hole and clear the universal yolks, but I bought the product for the lubrication feature missing on the OEM Spicer bearings.



Must I use the plug or is there another solution? Have I screwed up somewhere?

 

[hammersley]

Help me.....

Your sig says you joined in 2001 and this is your 1st post!!!! This must be a record!

 

[CyberRanger]

After the ball joints are installed (installed w/ the plugs instead of the zirk) & you have weight on the tires, removed the plug & replace it w/ the zirk. Then once you've greased the joints, remove the zirk & replace it w/ the plug so the u-joint won't removed it for you. It may look like it clears the u-joint now, sittin' still, but that probably won't always be the case. Don't find out the hard way.

 

[SSSmith]

Your sig says you joined in 2001 and this is your 1st post!!!! This must be a record!

No, I have not been a active poster. Lots of expertise on the Forum exceeds mine. I have been a subscriber to TDR since 1994 or so when I was first looking for the truck. It has been a primary source of information. I became a member of the Forum as soon as I became aware of it. The archives have been a great help.

 

[vssman]

The fitting would hit on mine. I used MOOG ball joints and had to use the "plug".

 

[SSSmith]

After the ball joints are installed (installed w/ the plugs instead of the zirk) & you have weight on the tires, removed the plug & replace it w/ the zirk. Then once you've greased the joints, remove the zirk & replace it w/ the plug so the u-joint won't removed it for you. It may look like it clears the u-joint now, sittin' still, but that probably won't always be the case. Don't find out the hard way.

The Zirk fitting doesn't even clear the yolks now with the axle unloaded. The joints are already greased, so I'll replace the fitting with the plug now, while I have somewhat easy access. These will be a pain to lube later, but you seem to be saying that's the only way.



The lube fittings seem to be important. The original problem was a creaking squeal when turning the loaded wheel. The original universal joint needle bearings were dry and rusty, and the lower ball joint had some vertical play after it was removed.

 

[CyberRanger]

Personally I never rely on the grease that comes in the joint. I like to grease 'em again w/ a higher quality grease, such as Lubriplate. While its expensive, it resists water much better than normal grease & adheres to the parts better under high temps & adverse conditions.

 

[SSSmith]

So Moog and Performance ball joints with Zirks both need the plugs for clearance to turn the 4wd axle. The smaller straight Zirk might clear, but it would be tight, probably dangerously so. I see no way to get the grease gun nozzle on a straight fitting so close to the assembled axle anyway. Unless you guys have other ideas, I guess I'll be replacing the Zirk for each lube job as the price to keep the upper ball joint lubed.



I may have misled when I said the joints are already greased. I meant that I had added grease myself after assembly but prior to loading the axle. I'm not counting on the bal joints mfgr pre-lube.



Lubriplate is a surprise recomendation. Is this the same old white grease, or a new suspension product by the same brand? Does this seem better than the available synthetic greases?

 

[CyberRanger]

Lubriplate is generally so expensive most parts store won't carry it except in very small containers or tubes. A 1 lb container is somethin' like $5-$8 & doesn't go very far. I bought a 40 lb pail from a petroleum dealer for about $1. 75/lb several years ago. Its probably more now. The stuff I got is used for wheel bearings on jet aircraft which take a real beating each & every time they take off & particularly when they land. In using it, I've found my intervals between bearing packs & lubing the chassis are greatly extended & I rarely have parts that wear out.



Yes, it is a white grease, but is far, far superior to most axle & bearing grease most stores sell. The biggest problem is finding an old functional grease gun that doesn't use a cartridge so I can pack it w/ Lubriplate.

 

[JFitzgerald]

Might a needle type zerk work? The heads are smaller (almost flush), but not sure if you could get the needle into the zerk to grease it.

#ad

 

[JFitzgerald]

Here's the fitting needed on the grease gun. The pic above shows a pressed-in zerk, but you can buy them threaded same as male zerks. I have some of these on my Jeep in tight and vulnerable spots.

#ad

 

[ToolManTimTaylor]

Dahmmit Man 'dat's Brilliant! I now know what I am going to use on those quad 4x4 ball joints on my bench ... rezerk'em. Now I just gotta muster up the umph to do 'em :{