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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 4x4 front disc removal trouble, HELP!

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I am trying to remove the front disc and bearing assembly. The service book says to remove the four bolts on the back side of the rotor next to the universal. Then remove the cotter pin and axle nut. The rotor is suppose to come off. I have tried some pressure with a tapered shaft pulling tool but I am afraid of doing damage to the bearing. What is holding this thing on?? What have I missed??
 
I have a '98. The only way I could figure out how to do this with the book was to pull the hub. Dodge tends not to use any assembly lube for installation so it can be a real pain. Using the proper puller and a 15" cresent on the puller (or worse an impact). The hub comes right off. You then have to drive the studs off to separate the rotor.



Maybe someone else knows a short cut.



I found that getting the hub off was the easy thing. It was getting it back on that was hard. The threads on the axle are not out there far enough to start the hub and then thread it on. The only way I could get things started was to hammer it back in using a piece of wood to soften the blows. This was not something I wanted to do.



ALSO, MAKE SURE that you have enough threads showing when you started to thread on the hub nut. I did not and ended up cross threading the nut. It was ~$20. I also had to chase the axle threads. Lets just say it was not a god day.



I don't know what the job is for but if you are just turning the rotors, have them turned on the truck. It can be done and the job comes out much better for much cheaper!



I was replacing rotors so I did not have a choice.
 
One way is to get a large slide hammer and pull it that way. Another is to get four hard screws with the same thread as the ones you removed and a little longer. Put those in place of the original screws so they stick out a little. Then hit them in turn until the rotor separates from the bearing mount. This way is better because it's gradual and is not as likely to damage seals.
 
Originally posted by dan_gilson

I have a '98. The only way I could figure out how to do this with the book was to pull the hub. Dodge tends not to use any assembly lube for installation so it can be a real pain. Using the proper puller and a 15" cresent on the puller (or worse an impact). The hub comes right off. You then have to drive the studs off to separate the rotor.



Maybe someone else knows a short cut.



I found that getting the hub off was the easy thing. It was getting it back on that was hard. The threads on the axle are not out there far enough to start the hub and then thread it on. The only way I could get things started was to hammer it back in using a piece of wood to soften the blows. This was not something I wanted to do.



ALSO, MAKE SURE that you have enough threads showing when you started to thread on the hub nut. I did not and ended up cross threading the nut. It was ~$20. I also had to chase the axle threads. Lets just say it was not a god day.



I don't know what the job is for but if you are just turning the rotors, have them turned on the truck. It can be done and the job comes out much better for much cheaper!



I was replacing rotors so I did not have a choice.
Thanks for the reply. I did a thread search and found that my bearing assembly might be rusted to the axle. As you said, they don't lube these things. Well I shot it good with some PB blaster and letting soak over night. I am upgrading the front and rear brakes. The old discs have to come off. I have my own press and plenty of patients. Thanks again for the advise.
 
Originally posted by Joe G.

One way is to get a large slide hammer and pull it that way. Another is to get four hard screws with the same thread as the ones you removed and a little longer. Put those in place of the original screws so they stick out a little. Then hit them in turn until the rotor separates from the bearing mount. This way is better because it's gradual and is not as likely to damage seals.
Good advice, thank you.
 
Before you get involved with pullers...

After the PB has soaked in, replace at least one of the four bolts on the backside loosely so the whole axle doesn't come out then tap on the end of the threaded part of the axle shaft with a soft hammer while rotating the rotor. For some reason rotation is the key. I had one that I thought was never going to come off fall off in my hands once I started rotating it. Since I started rotating them most all have come off easily.
 
Originally posted by illflem

Before you get involved with pullers...

After the PB has soaked in, replace at least one of the four bolts on the backside loosely so the whole axle doesn't come out then tap on the end of the threaded part of the axle shaft with a soft hammer while rotating the rotor. For some reason rotation is the key. I had one that I thought was never going to come off fall off in my hands once I started rotating it. Since I started rotating them most all have come off easily.
Thanks for the warning but I had a very difficult time removing the rotors. The back plate of the bearing assembly on both hubs had rusted to the ball joint carriages. I had to use heat and apply the blaster. I backed out all four bolts, placed an impact socket on each separately, and beat the living hell out of it with a bronze mallet. It took me 3 hours total to get each side off. I used a puller on the first side and the bearing had separated. After some cleaning and repacking I was able to put the bearing back together with a shop press. Needles to say I got quite an education working on the brakes. I thank all you guys with your great and useful advise. The TDR has been and always will be the greatest source for repair information!!Oo.
 
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