2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission 4x4 front wheel bearings

[Double 6]

I have a 2001 2500 4x4 with 70,000 miles on it, If I remember correct the front wheel bearings are a sealed hub assembly, My question is how long on average does the factory greased front wheel assembly's last with mostly highway miles? Should I be worried about failure?

Thanks in advance...

D 6

 

[BDMiller]

Mine failed catastrophically around 95k miles. Both were bad & the drivers side took out everything around it, including the knuckle. Many of the parts wer even hard to get & it took nearly two weeks to get the work done. It ended up costing almost $5000. Fortunately it was all covered by the extended warranty. Moral of the story, keep your eyes on those bearings.

 

[Extreme1]

Conversely, my stockers have 270,000 miles on them. One was seperated during a rotor replacement a few years ago. I added a little grease, reassembled it (with the new rotor) and it's still tight.

 

[starring]

My bearings became square at 120k. They were both bad, and i had my truck back the next day.

 

[Ramafid]

Started hearing slight noise /vibration at certain steering angles at about 116K. Finally replaced at 121K. Job was the biggest PITA I have ever done. The darn bearings were almost welded in due to rust and corrosion. If you change them yourself get a really BIG puller , a good 3-5 lb hammer and lots of liquid wrench. A case of beer would not be bad either.

 

[theferalkid]

i just destroyed a perfectly good wheel bearing cuz i am an idiot and i took advice from two separate "professional" mechanics/idiots; by the time i figured out (on my own) how to remove a siezed hub assembly the damage was already done. Word to the Wise: a siezed hub assembly can be removed without damaging wheel bearing by striking the bolts (that hold the hub assembly to the knuckle) loosened halfway, with a brass punch. Penetrating oil helps; and a little, i repeat, a little heat will help (I am told grease can explode if it gets too hot inside sealed spaces). Do not pound on the rotor or try to pry the sucker off. BTW, i cannot find a wheel bearing for this truck except from chrysler dealers and only with the whole hub assembly costing about $300, ouch!

 

[Jff24Gordn]

Replaced one at 140k and the other one is still in there at almost 200k

 

[BWilson]

I've changed quite a few of these. the first time they are off it is a real PITA; however, if you l;ube everything up liberally with Never-cease they come off great the next time. I get mine from Murray's wityh a lifetime warranty for around $200. They seme to last anywhere from 75K to 150K miles. Of course I have 35" BFG's and I plow snow. I'm sure that isn't helping any.



PS. The job definitely goes better with a case of beer!!

 

[diesel DOG]

ruined mine today trying to get them off :{ and the backing plate. They were rusted on it took 3 hours of beating. :{ Trying to do ball joints at 60,00 what a piece of junk

 

[Cooker]

If they separate this does not mean they are ruined. They can be pressed back together and reused. Also the bearing itself can be replaced but I do not have the part number handy. If the housing or race is damaged then the entire unit needs replacement.

 

[diesel DOG]

deformed around where the bolts go though from beating it and trying to seperate it. Now ball joint jobs cost a whole bunch more with two new hub bearings. Thanks for the tip anyway.