Here I am

4x4- Locking Front Hubs??

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

NV241LD versus NV241HD observations

Horton or Flex-O-Lite

Status
Not open for further replies.
Well, another greetings from another new-be--I've been reading this forum for about 3 months and can't believe the wealth of information this site has !!Sounds like all the people on here are top notch!! My question is this: On my 1990 DC 4x4, I had manual locking front hubs- On my 2001 4x4 there is some type of vacume operated gizmo that I don't know anything about!! Has anyone gotten rid of this and gone back to the old style- Manuel locking hubs ??? Thanks in advance for any info ! Larry

------------------
2001 xlt+ 4x4 sb ext. cab six speed,ltd. slip,jacobs exhaust brake,heated leather,Dark Garnet Red over Silver, Pullrite 5th. wheel hitch, camper,trailer tow package, cobra CB
 
Hi Larry,
Welcome aboard! The lockout hubs issue has been discussed quite often. There is no quick and dirty or cheap way to do this. While there have been some conversions done by hybidizing first gen parts, etc. the easiest but not inexpensive way is to buy a complete front axle assembly from a company in California. Forgot their name. Still interested?
 
Actually they offer parts. The cheap kit was around $1,800. The next step up replaces the right (2 piece) axle shaft with 1 solid one. The big dog, full boogie, real deal upgrades the axle shafts to "real Dana 60 size". (Apparently our 60s shafts are closer to 44 diameter). I think this was around $3,000.
Still interested??

Actually, the system in place works pretty well (a helluva lot better than the automatics. When in 2 wheel drive, the driveshaft, chain, & ring and pinion are stationary and the axleshafts are turning. The vacuum gizmo slides a collar that locks and unlocks the right axleshaft halfs.

This is a much better system than "automatic hubs" because when engaged, there is no lost energy (axle rotation) to engage the hubs. Try rocking an auto hub truck sometime. The hubs usually grenade. #ad
).

For the way I use my truck, I prefer this system. (I think I better duck!) I know other will disagree (some boisterously #ad
) but that's O. K.

------------------
'94 3500 4x4, 209,000 miles, Never had a cat, Auto w/shift kit (thanks Dave G), 3. 54 Gears, TST #5 plate, 235-85-16s, Rancho 9000s w/remote, Isspro Gauges & Amsoil Air, Oil & Bypass Filters & Lubes, AWOL intake boot.
Punchlist: X-Mount Mirrors, 14 cm Turbo Housing & 215 Injectors.
NRA member.
Blue Ribbon Coalition member.
"Warrantee? We don't need no stinking warrantee!"

[This message has been edited by Extreme1 (edited 03-11-2001). ]
 
Some guys have had some problems with the stock system, (sometimes it won't go in) but I have had no problems what so ever, and I use it a lot. No stopping, no getting out, JUST PULL THE LEVER AND KEEP GOING. GOOOOD STUFF!!!

------------------
Rusty Mule 97 3500 5 Speed Dually 68,000miles 25,000# POP-UP HITCH, CAT GUTTED "MULE HAULER"
 
Welcome aboard, there is more info here than any place else.
I'm another that misses my locking hubs, but in all honesty, I've not had problem one with the last three trucks with the mickey mouse axle connect. I stand corrected, the '94 loosened up and leaked some fluid from the housing, but 5 minutes with a wrench fixed it.
I got to agree with the others, shure is nice not to have to slop thru the mud to lock 'em in!

------------------
Denny
'99 2500 4X4 White short Q cab to much added to put here

[This message has been edited by C. D. Day (edited 03-11-2001). ]
 
Larry,
Welcome to the TDR. We are having a get together in Rainier, OR on Saturday, April 7th. Check out local and regional events for more information. Hope to see you there. Bob
 
Thanks a whole bunch to everyone for all the info- At least now I know how they work and that they are fairly reliable- For $1800 to $3000 , maybe I'll stick with what I,ve got-- its just that I'm from the old school- Hard to change my ways !! I'm going to keep the dynatrac site in mind- Bob from Rainier,OR. -If we can get away, we'll come down to Rainier for the get-together- thanks for the invite !! (are wives invited or is this a guy thing?) Larry

------------------
2001 xlt+ 4x4 sb ext. cab six speed,ltd. slip,jacobs exhaust brake,heated leather,Dark Garnet Red over Silver, Pullrite 5th. wheel hitch, camper,trailer tow package, cobra CB
 
If you dislike the vacuum disconect, How ambout GM's "Thermal Linear Actuator"? As least the vacuum disconnect is comprehensible, GM has a system that engages the axle connect via a hot wire inside a sealed chamber with a rubber diaphram connect to an actuator rod. When the shift lever is placed in 4WD, a current runs to the hot wire. The wire heats the air inside the sealed chamber. As the air heats up, it expands and causes the diaphram to push on the rod, engaging 4wd. Some times if you are lucky, it will engage within 30 seconds. sometimes not. And when it is cold and snowy outside, and the air inside the chamber is cold, it takes 2-3 minutes. I have replaced the actuator on my work truck five times in 80,000 miles. I even had to explain to the service writer how the system worked so He could check it. Vacuum ain't that bad.
 
Ranger Dick:
You're kidding ... right? I'm an Engineer, and that's the stupidist thing I ever heard of. Well, except for Dodge lowering the fill point on the rear axle because of seal leaks.

------------------
Ken Lenger
On Order - 2001. 5 2500 QC 4X4 SWB SLT, ETC/DDX 5 Speed, 3. 55 (no antispin), camper group, trailer folding mirrors, RBR CD/Radio, LT265/75R16E AT OWL tires, trailer tow group, Patroit Blue / Agate,
Replaces 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8 which is for sale.
Trailite 21' Travel Trailer, ~4000 lbs loaded.
 
For those of you that would rather have a mechanical connection there's a device called a posi-lok that replaces the vacuum switch. Here's the web site:
http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/

Dave.

p. s.
Ranger Dick-
They also have one for your thermal actuated switch.

[This message has been edited by Dave MacArthur (edited 03-13-2001). ]
 
Klenger, and Dave M. Yep, I'm telling the truth. It is referred by gm as a TLA and it is about the 1. 5"in Dia. by 4" long. Apparently heat stress cycles cause the diaphram to degrade, and hence leak. the part costs around $84. I am aware of the mechanical actuator. and also, I belive that Warn had an electro/mechanical servo that replaced the TLA. But I solved the problem. I got a new 2500 Dodge Gasser last week as my patrol truck.
 
Makes me glad I don't have a GM truck !! I'll check out the posi-lok but for now, will stick with what I have- Like I said earlier, this is a GREAT site- Thanks again, Larry

------------------
2001 xlt+ 4x4 sb ext. cab six speed,ltd. slip,jacobs exhaust brake,heated leather,Dark Garnet Red over Silver, Pullrite 5th. wheel hitch, camper,trailer tow package, cobra CB
 
Try burying one of those Thermal jobs in the snow. They work real good then.

Buddy of mine just bought a '92 Yukon. He couldn't believe it when I told him about this system.

I agree the Dodge setup is a POS, but it works OK for how I use my truck. For a real four wheeler though, it's junk.

Pete

------------------
'97 2500 CC 4X4 5spd Sport
'83 K5 Blazer 350 TBI (ex 6. 2), 39. 5 TSLs, 3" lift, Dana 60/GM 14 blt, Detroits
 
I've been using the Posi-Lok on my '92 Chev K2500 8 lug for about 3 years now. One of the best features is you can use the tranfer case low range without turning the front axle. Great for pulling heavy loads (short distance) on hard surfaces. Also, engage front axle and shift in and out of 4X4 instantly.
Mick
'92 K2500 C6P L65 w/DB2 MT1

[This message has been edited by ulhpilot (edited 03-15-2001). ]
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top