5.9 Oil Pan Gasket Replacement

[GHarman]

Besides doing it right the first time :-laf . I really need some input on the process of lifting/jacking to obtain adequate clearence over the rivited frame member, of the oil pan and sump for removal to replace the gasket (again)(pan and sump) including safety blocking tips. This time the drive train is attached. I do not have the room, the equipment or the physical capability to remove the engine from the front. I must do it from under the truck. Can the pan clear the clutch housing adaptor plate in the rear? Has anyone done this chore this way? Backgrond info is in the Thread "Old Ugly, New Clutch". I've been working on this fer three months and my time is gettin' short. Winter is here in the "High Country" and I need that 4X4. Your input is HIGHLY APPRECIATED . Oo. GregH

 

[GHarman]

INNNNNPPPUUUUTTTTTT Requested

Come on gents Oo. ! I know there has got to be some BRAVE SOULS out there that have replaced their own pan gasket! I really need to hear from you . Thanks. GregH

 

[boatpuller]

I've never replaced a pan gasket on a 5. 9 in the truck but tried it on a 1985 with a 360 and it was no fun, ended up just lowering the pan, putting the Ultra RTV gasket maker on each side of the original gasket and bolting it back up, didn't leak for the next 90,000 miles that I put on it. There just seems to be too much stuff in the way under there. Might be worth a try, just don't get excess rtv inside the pan, excess out side won't hurt anything but you don't want pieces of silicone plugging up the oil pump intake.

Rereading your post it sounds like you already replaced the gasket so it should still be in good condition, I would try the Ultra RTV before I replaced the gasket again. I personally would find the area that's leaking, use some brakekleen to clean it and just goop the Rtv on that area, it's worth a shot before tearing the whole truck apart again, if you could shoot the rtv between the pan and block in the leaking area it might help.



Good Luck with whichever way you go.

 

[GHarman]

Resignation

Guess I'll have to call Cummins to see how they do it. If they pull the engine to do this repair, they will get the job! That Hurts :{ ! GregH

 

[JGrefenstette]

greg, let us know what u find out, cause im in the exact same situation. i got a 93 with a leaky oil pan gasket. the pan has a dent in the front which may mean that my pan is bent and is not laying flush with the block. so ill probly end up replacing the pan with the gasket

but i would love to know what cummins tells you, to get an idea of what im in for... thanks

jimmy

 

[GHarman]

greg, let us know what u find out, cause im in the exact same situation. i got a 93 with a leaky oil pan gasket. the pan has a dent in the front which may mean that my pan is bent and is not laying flush with the block. so ill probly end up replacing the pan with the gasket

but i would love to know what cummins tells you, to get an idea of what im in for... thanks

jimmy

Hey Jimmy, I certainly will post what I find out. . I do know an approximate cost of 8-9 shop hours @ $107 local price. plus gaskets, shop materials, disposal fees and taxes. Its not to bad of a chore if the drivetrain is disconnected back to and including the clutch housing adaptor plate (must remove clutch and flywheel!). Then there is room to slide it back and down. You still need to hoist the engine up to the end of the engine mount bolts. GregH

 

[DJW]

I must first state that I have never had to reseal a leaking oil pan gasket. My thoughts at first, how much pressure exists in the oil pan, so what caused the pan to leak? Many engine sumps have negative pressure as they are designed that way. If one can find source of leak one would have a better sense of how to combat it. Many oil pans if tightened too much will crush in the area of the bolt gasket thus making the gasket prone to leaking, owing to the oil pan surface being deformed between the bolts, thus causing deflection, sometimes if a ridged piece of metal can be bolted between bolts thus spreading the pressure that may stop the leak, however if the sump pressure is too high caused by other factors, leaks will surely return. To avoid having to remove the engine or other envolved procedures, I would first drop the pan enough to examine the oil pan flange, many will have the area around the holes higher than the flange in general, flange not flat or on the same plane. If that's the case a piece of metal inserted between oil pan flange and engine then clamped to level the dimpling. Without first correcting the cause one is only retarding the predictable, a new gasket probably work but for how long? This I have done in similar occasions where removing the parts would be time consuming, is to cut the new gasket at an angle something of the fashion like a piston ring, but a compound cut. At least it may be worth a try.

 

[GHarman]

DJW, The pan flange is flat. The gasket was incorrectly installed when the engine was detached from the drivetrain and the rear main seal retainer was removed from the rear of the engine block. There was no support to the gasket at the point of contact with the rear main seal adaptor. All of the bolts were installed except the 4 that thread into the aluminum RMS housing. The gasket humped at the location of no support. I was not able to keep the gasket flat when I installed the rear main seal adaptor and rear main seal. The bolt holes aligned but that section of gasket was distorted and maybe torn in the center. There is no quick fix. Do it right (Coulda, Shoulda, Woulda) Now we do it again! GregH

 

[Grey Wolf]

Jack up the truck so that the suspension hangs, then hook up a cherry picker on the lifting eye. It's not a fun job be it can be done, however if it happens to be a two wheel drive I think the engine will have to be pulled. Once you get the pan loose you'll have to snake your arm in there and disconnect the oil pick up, then it will come out.....

 

[GHarman]

Jack up the truck so that the suspension hangs, then hook up a cherry picker on the lifting eye. It's not a fun job be it can be done, however if it happens to be a two wheel drive I think the engine will have to be pulled. Once you get the pan loose you'll have to snake your arm in there and disconnect the oil pick up, then it will come out.....

Thanks for the input, Grey Wolf. I just talked to Cummins and they said that the job could be done in the truck. Have to unbolt motor and transmission mounts. Then lift from the front. Support required at the rear of the transmission also but allows a little play where needed.

Actually, the axle has no interference other than the spring sag in the lift. Its that Cross member that is the bear and the pan movement to the rear is countered by the clutch housing adaptor plate. The higher the motor can be lifted the less obstacle is encountered.

Now to gather up my confidence:-laf. Its in short supply, right now! Greg

 

[Grey Wolf]

Yep your right, I forgot to mention the motor mounts and it's always good to have another pair of hands. My son and I got the pan off in about an hour with help from a few new words:-laf

 

[monkeyman]

You don't have to jack the engine up if you take the trans and transfer case out.
Rick

 

[GHarman]

You don't have to jack the engine up if you take the trans and transfer case out.

Rick

YEP!, Your right. Did that, now I gotta replace it with the drivetrain attached! I'm really jest doin' this fer kicks:-laf, cause I LOVE crankin' wrenches:-laf. Thanks for your input, monkeyman. You just had to have been there to appreciate the humor in this! GregH

 

[monkeyman]

Mine has to be done again also, leaking near bell housing. I think I will weld it on!Oo. Rick

 

[GHarman]

Mine has to be done again also, leaking near bell housing. I think I will weld it on!Oo. Rick

Hey Monkeyman, As my favorite all time mechanic says; "That'll woik!. Hey Moe! Oo. GregH

 

[GHarman]

Did some prep work for tomorrow's attempt #2 to replace the pan gasket. My Bud is coming up to lend a big hand and by GODS GRACE, this job should get finished soon. 'Course there is always something to fix on "OLD UGLY". Just keepin' ahead of everything is the big chore. GregH

 

[GHarman]

Final Decision

My Bud spent an hour looking at the job and said he wasnt 100% sure we could do it and felt it would require other hands to help. I am useless when it comes to the heavy grunt work and we are not close in to get help. The final decision is to take it to Cummins on Monday. Did not want to tear down the entire drive train and reassemble it. I think this is the best way to handle this problem. Then I have my truck back by mid week! Hopefully everything else will work the way its supposed to. This was, for me, a very difficult job because of the weight of components and the odd positions in which the work had to be performed. I've reached my limitations. GregH

 

[GHarman]

The Domino Effect

Cummins got the pan down and called me to say I have a CAM LOBE that is flaking!? They are going to quote me a price on a CAM replacement, but now I am not sure that the truck is worth that much ? 'Course, that will be cheaper than a new truck. Have to see what they quote! I'll HAVE to get 15 more years out of it just to amortize the repair costs! I doubt the rest of the truck will last that long:{. Greg

 

[GHarman]

New Gasket and CAM

The quote is $2409. 79 for the whole tamale. Gonna do it. "Old Ugly" gets a new Heart. Cant afford a new truck. GregH

 

[GHarman]

Cummins Shop

Went down to Cummins today to drop off new radiator hoses and a thermostat. They are into it, might as well not have any loose ends. Got a tour of the job in progress from the Lead Mechanic, Richard. SHO 'NUFF there was a pencil eraser sized flaw on one of the cam lobes where you could catch your fingernail on the surface. So I get a new cam, lifters and some other new parts as well as an overhead adjustment. Lookin' forward to the test drive. I'll be breakin' in a clutch, rear main seal, a cam and lifters! Hafta baby "Old Ugly" fer a spell. The only thing gonna get hurt is my bank account. GregH