Here I am

5.9 swap w/ 318

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

It's Alive

Electric cooling fans!!!!

Yeah sure with the correct adaptors and money it will bolt up. But will it hold up to the torque of the 5. 9 cummins? I doubt it... Its probly a np-435 4 speed NO OD direct drive transmission. Same HD transmission that was around when Dodge introduced the Cummins, but did they use this 4 speed? Nope used the getrag. Bill
 
5.9 to 318

it is a four speed i had thought that the pattern was the same as the 318 because 318 and 360 are the same and the cummings is 360 displace also
 
actually the Cummins (note lack of the letter 'G') displaces 359 cubic inches and is not made by dodge...



and if you somehow got that 435 rigged up behind there, you'd frag it into a million pieces on the first pull.



Forrest
 
Yeah I was thinking if you REALLY wanted the 435 behind the Cummins, it 'might' be ok if you were grandpa, but definately not for truck pulls. The 435 probly has a smaller input shaft compared to getrag 5speed in early Dodge Cummins. Save the gasser parts for the gasser power wagons, great trucks, I have a 78. If you want a Cummins in an old power wagon, your gonna have to transplant the entire drivetrain from the Dodge Cummins into the powerwagon, engine, transmission, t-case if not 205 already, front/rear ends, cause some have run with there original say Dana 60 rear or whatever but it doesnt last behind a bombed engine or abuse ... good luck. Bill
 
thanks everyone i had thought that an old 1 ton had some strong running gear stronger than the stuff of today dana 80 in back dana 60 in front ?
 
Your 1 ton power wagon probly has a Dana 60 rear, Dana 44 or 60 front. No Dana 80's around in the 70's I dont believe.



Yeah I know, 'but they had 440's up against that running gear. ' BUT they don't have the low end torque of a Cummins. Thats what tears up gasser running gear. Bill
 
If its a true one ton it will have a 60F. Your good there. It may have a 70 rear. Be ok depending on mods to the cummins, for a while.



Heck my 440 tore up 60 rear axel shafts truck pulling last year, at will. Went to a 14 bolt rear and solved the problem(for now). Then started breaking the drive shaft. Got that fixed. Can't wait to hook again. Gonna make some ladder bars front and rear, before going this year. This is all with at pump gas 440 4sp, 203. A cummins would have a hay day with these parts.



Like said above. Gotta get the whole cummins drive train, at least a nv4500/205, but lots of guys say the newer aluminuim t/cases are stronger then the 205s. But they are all output on the wrong side. One buddy with a good running 454 has twisted off 205 input shafts. Went to a dodge specd shaft and hasn't broken it yet.



How are you gonna set up the cummins. Get tweaked stock/street driven, or slipper clutch twins? That will really answere a lot of questions.



Michael
 
i was going to use a 12 cummins w/ some mods but this year ill use the stock 360. yeah i found out the front is a 60f rear is a 70 do u weld both front and rear spiders?
 
I'm not one thats hip on welding spiders. Are you sure the diffs are open. A 70 rear with trac lock will hold tight truck pulling. If it is ls and worn out, just add another disc to make it super tight.



I ran a detroit locker in the rear 60, but couldn't keep axels in it pulling. Went to a 14 bolt rear cause it was free, with ls, and open diff setups. I am running the ls for now until I get another detroit. Up front I am running a lockright, which goes into the stock open carrier. I have had no problems with this setup. Very happy with the performance.



I think(ie opinion) that welding weakens the cast, and weaken is not a good word for truck pulling. Your trying to weld cast to steel gears. Hard to do. If you weld them and then they break, then you start all over. If you want something cheap that will last, gather up lead balancing weights from a tire shop. Remove your diff carrier. Set it up with the axels shafts in the side gears. Cover one of the holes in the carrier with something to keep hot lead in the carrier. Then melt the lead, skim off the crap, then fill the carrier with lead. Then everything is locked together, but nothing is burned together. Several friends, including my brother run this in offroad trucks with 44" tires with good luck. Ususally if the lead fails, not much else in the diff is hurt, unless you drive it alot after the failure.



Michael
 
that lead idea is awsome im looking in to getting some spools for front and back we see what happens thanks for all your help
 
I think you will be able to find a spool for the front. Unsure about the rear though. Must not be planning on driving this truck much on the street?:D



Michael
 
Back
Top